Guys and gals, what hoods are you running on your 351 foxes? I'm looking for options and I want to know what will work with the extra deck height.
351 Hood Options
- Thread starter theconductor
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Pretty much any 2.5 inducted cowl or larger. I really like my Cervinis although I'm in a slightly different boat.
How radical/tall will your intake be?
How radical/tall will your intake be?
To be determined on what intake we're going with. I prefer it as subtle as possible. Once the builder gives me the options, I'll report back. I can deal with a 2.5".
Is a cowl hood needed or are there other types of aftermarket hoods raised enough to provide space?
- Mar 2, 2015
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I've seen people space the k member down to add hood clearance. If using a truck lower that bolts to a Holley systemax intake you may be able to use the factory hood. If using tall valve convers it'll cause the intake to need a 1 inch spacer. You could get away with stock valve covers with 3/8 spacers under the covers... that would allow use of a 3/8 to 1/2 spacer on the intake. Space the kmember about 1/2 to 3/4 and it may clear.
Dropping the k member will cause the rack and pinion to drop as well. Offset rack bushings can help regain some off that, but it depends on the pan you're using. The steering shaft may need to be lengthened depending on how low you go.
Just keep in mind that the suspension geometry would change. Lowering the k member is like raising the front of the body. Coil overs would help even the wheel wells back out for ride height.
With 1/2 spacers you should be able to clear a stock hood..... MM makes a decent set....
Dropping the k member will cause the rack and pinion to drop as well. Offset rack bushings can help regain some off that, but it depends on the pan you're using. The steering shaft may need to be lengthened depending on how low you go.
Just keep in mind that the suspension geometry would change. Lowering the k member is like raising the front of the body. Coil overs would help even the wheel wells back out for ride height.
With 1/2 spacers you should be able to clear a stock hood..... MM makes a decent set....
Steel1
Mustang Master
I run a Mach I hood on mine with vert mounts and a Edelbrock Victor EFI.
I occasionally get the slightest rub on the high corner of the upper intake.
The cowl portion of the hood looks to be about 1.5"
I occasionally get the slightest rub on the high corner of the upper intake.
The cowl portion of the hood looks to be about 1.5"
There are ram air hoods and such that offer more clearance and some are nice but... I dunno. I'm not a huge fan.
When I first saw this just now:
I've seen people space the k member down to add hood clearance. If using a truck lower that bolts to a Holley systemax intake you may be able to use the factory hood. If using tall valve convers it'll cause the intake to need a 1 inch spacer. You could get away with stock valve covers with 3/8 spacers under the covers... that would allow use of a 3/8 to 1/2 spacer on the intake. Space the kmember about 1/2 to 3/4 and it may clear.
Dropping the k member will cause the rack and pinion to drop as well. Offset rack bushings can help regain some off that, but it depends on the pan you're using. The steering shaft may need to be lengthened depending on how low you go.
Just keep in mind that the suspension geometry would change. Lowering the k member is like raising the front of the body. Coil overs would help even the wheel wells back out for ride height.
With 1/2 spacers you should be able to clear a stock hood..... MM makes a decent set....
My first reaction was "sweet" but... look at all the crap you have to go through.
I just remembered this next item as a result of your thread. If I were buying an Aero Nose Fox hood today, it would likely be this one:
https://www.andysautosport.com/products/key_parts__1910-035.html#Product
Gear grabber
Well-Known Member
- May 23, 2016
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The car will be nose heavy enough with a 351w.
Adding another 20 lb's with a steel cowl hood,not a good idea, imo.
Adding another 20 lb's with a steel cowl hood,not a good idea, imo.
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,820
- 5,853
- 203
An aluminum headed 351 weighs about the same as a 302 with iron heads. There's only about 50 to 60lb difference if both have iron heads. Losing the air pump and aftermarket k member make up for alot of that.
btw, other than steering shaft length, k-spacers wont affect the steering at all since the whole assembly is moving down. its basically the same as a body lift on a full-frame vehicle.
I thought about this too but even a fiberglass hood has weight. The difference is pretty easily offset.
Or even a battery relocation.
2.5” cervinis. Fits nice but required more prep work than I would have liked for a $600 hood.
Gear grabber
Well-Known Member
- May 23, 2016
- 283
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Yes I get that. But if you are going through other efforts to reduce weight,why saddle the car
with a extra 30lb's of hood. (compared to glass) Granted,i am looking at this my way,as in,
lighter is better.
I dunno if this is a track car or not. 
Hey Conductor... Street or track?
This is what I have on my 86 (4-eye version). They make nice stuff.
Hey Conductor... Street or track?
2.5” cervinis. Fits nice but required more prep work than I would have liked for a $600 hood.
This is what I have on my 86 (4-eye version). They make nice stuff.
Did I miss it?
Carb or efi?
I was able to run the factory hood.
Easy way is to use a drop k-member. If the drop comes from the k-member design (as opposed to just shimming the member down), then suspension is fine.
Also look at intake heights, and consider milling them shorter if need be.
My first 351w setup had a gt40 lower with one of the composite box upper, which was restrictive for even a factory 351w. I had the lower mating surface of the upper milled to shorten it a little more for added clearance. This cleared the stock hood with stock kmember, but I don’t recall the motor mounts I used.
I still have an efi converted Vic jr and elbow ready for the next 351w I put in... but that will be using a drop kmember from team-Z.
I may have to mill the elbow a little with this setup as well...
Just depends on how much effort you are willing to put into it, and what trade offs your willing to make...
Carb or efi?
I was able to run the factory hood.
Easy way is to use a drop k-member. If the drop comes from the k-member design (as opposed to just shimming the member down), then suspension is fine.
Also look at intake heights, and consider milling them shorter if need be.
My first 351w setup had a gt40 lower with one of the composite box upper, which was restrictive for even a factory 351w. I had the lower mating surface of the upper milled to shorten it a little more for added clearance. This cleared the stock hood with stock kmember, but I don’t recall the motor mounts I used.
I still have an efi converted Vic jr and elbow ready for the next 351w I put in... but that will be using a drop kmember from team-Z.
I may have to mill the elbow a little with this setup as well...
Just depends on how much effort you are willing to put into it, and what trade offs your willing to make...
Steel1
Mustang Master
Sorry for the delayed reply, I was out of town for a few days.
Anyways this is the same style hood I have but I didn't buy it new fro LMR, I bought mine used
about 8-9yrs, ago. Fitment isn't perfect and being used I had to do some body work to it before paint,
but like I said with my set-up it clearance is good.
https://lmr.com/item/CER-101/1987-93-Mustang-Ram-Air-Fiberglass-Hood-15-Rise
I dunno if this is a track car or not.
Hey Conductor... Street or track?
This is what I have on my 86 (4-eye version). They make nice stuff.
It's a street car. Set up for the track, but the chances of me taking it there are slim. I just want to cruise. I have a Maximum Motorsports K Member. The car is efi and I believe we'll be going with an Edelbrock intake.
The 2.5 cervinis is doable. It looks pretty damn good on @hoopty5.0 's car!
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