351 in '95GT Come in if you've done it or want to learn about it

I'll be getting about 7 grand towards building up my current engine or putting a different one togeather. I was wondering if anyone here has done a 351-based engine swap onto their '94-'95. If so how much did it cost you and what did it take in terms of parts to put the engine it self in and get it running. As of now i can think of getting a tubular K member to make it easier, Headders, motor mounts,.... what else? I was told a 5.0 wiring harness will work with a fuel injected 351. My goal is to build a 400-500rwhp blown 393-408 stroked engine. 7k seems like a lot for building such an engine but for what I want i'll have to rely on scavenging for real cheap parts off of ebay or here. So as i asked before how much did it cost you for the engine/complete swap(not counting drivetrain) and what combination did you use and how much hp are you pushing. Thanks in advance

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I don't totally agree with that. Especially if he is buying everything new. The blower alone will set you back for about half that. Then he has to buy a stroker shortblock, heads, intake, cam, rockers, all of the stuff to convert the car to 351, etc etc etc.
It's all of the little stuff that adds up to big bucks. Then again i don't know what mods he has already that he can use for this combo. If he has the blower already then it should definately be easy to do.
I guess if you have the time you can definately get the price down by buying stuff on the classified and ebay.
 
I agree with Mike, it'll probably cost you that much to get a stroked 351 installed and running right. Not to mention all of the driveline modifications needed to support the power. FYI: You can get 400rwhp from a N/A 393 pretty easily.
 
Im in over 7k with my engine/headers/intake/injectors/maf/tbody etc.. So going boosted AND building a stout stroked 351 will be more like 10-11k.

Any questions just ask, i just got done doing the swap. Search my name for pics and more info as well.

Heres a list i came up with of things needed to be changed..

)Convertible motor mounts (they are beefier then coupes, you could also use drop mounts, but they are solid)
2)Heads need 1/2 inch holes
3)lower intake
4)94 lightning distributor, then swap the gear from your old dist onto the lightning one. FYI, lightning used a flat tappet hyd motor, so the dist gear was cast, not steel like ours. If your using a hyd ROLLER cam, it must be steel.
5)new longer belt!
6)If your using an older block (non roller), you will need to either tap the block for the spider hold down(for the lifters), or use tie-bar lifters which cost 400+. If you dont use a hyd roller cam, then it wont matter.
7)swap headers, KOOKS!
8)The rubber hoses that go from the water pump to heater pipe and thermostat need to be longer. I went to autozone to get the one from the lightning, but i didnt no what to call them, so i just boought some over sized pieces of rubber hoses that were the same sizes and cut them to fit.
9) Rubber hose between rails needs to be replaced with longer hose(high pressure fuel injection hose)
10)Oil pan - canton 7qt
11) new balancer and flywheel (28.8 oz, unless the motor is zero balanced)
12) cowl hood
 
The reason why i'm gonna go forced induction is because this will be a California Smog legal motor and it is a lot easier to get it to pass the sniffer test with a SC than naturaly aspirated relatively speaking. I was thinking a used powerdyne as the SC, they go for about 1,000-1,500. as far as transmission goes that ill be either a used T56 or a built tko, basicaly about 1,800 or so for either one(this will not eat into the motor budget. so as I said i'll hve to rely on scavenging the web for used parts ie heads, intake, and possibly block... the stroker i'll buy new... i was thinking either a 393 or a 408. And I also remembered i'll have to buy a bigger radiator to cool that many horses too.
 
$7000 will do a nice job at getting started. Here's where my first $7k went:

block prep- $900
crank- $1400
rods - $600
pistons $500
heads - $4000
-------------->$7400
intake - $1300
oil pan/tray - $380
injectors - $275
fuel system - $1049
cam - $300
headers - $630
balancer - $349
SPEC clutch/flywheel - $620

I can list all the non-motor components also if you're interested. You can look at my sig for the details of parts.


400-500 RWHP is a large range. You can easily get 400+ out of a 347 N/A and still reuse many of your 5.0 parts. If you're limited to the $7k, I'd go for the 347. You start a 393/408 and that $7k will be gone sooner than you think. Don't forget to allow some $$ to upgrade the driveline to handle the extra power you'll be putting through it. I'm building to make 600+rwhp so I wasn't about to settle for any of the junk engine kits I found on eBay. Maybe they're selling better parts on there these days. However, I have purchased the majority of my non-engine parts from Stangnet, Corral & eBay. I actually only gave $2200 for those $4000 heads I was just giving you the price to get them new. It only cost a couple hundred extra to go 347 vs 306 OR 408 vs 351 as far as engine parts are concerned.
 
the main raeson why i want to go with a 351 block is beause it can handle a bit more power safely thqan a 302 block. This will be a daily driven engine thats why 450hp would be a "conservative tune". unfortunately a 302 stock block cant hold 600hp without praying and even then its still a risky proposition. If i was looking for just 400hp it would be a no braner.... a 331(with factory block), aluminum heads, intake and SC with 8psi, but then if you want to reach 600hp on any given weekend a 351 block will hold that, of course for peace of mind a girdle would be also employed. Basicaly a total list would be nice, the more detailed the better as to what a complete motor consists of... Ie bearings,rings, gaskets... and all the things you normally wouldnt think of.


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for 400 rwhp, I would get an all-forged 306 from DSS, the SC, and spin that mother to 7 Grand. Bet you make 450-475 rwhp like that. You could still use the stock hood! You drop the 393 in there... well, Jesse can tell you all about hood problems. The Super Pro Bullit is good for 650 rwhp. just my .02.