3G alt conversion plug

American_Muscle · Sep 8, 2005

I've got a question guys,
I got the PA perf. alt with power wire upgrade and the conversion plug for my 91 LX.
Something is confusing me.....where does the plug end of the conv. plug go?(LOL)
It isn't the regulator plug because the stock reg. plug will fit into the alt.

But the 3 wires on the plug aren't the ones I need...only one has a ring terminal.(2 need to go onto the new alt)
PLus the black/orange wires are next to each and on the plug the white stator plug is in the middle so they can't be next to each other.

I hope someone can understand that..lol.

Maybe I'm thinking too far, but something has me stumped..probably something simple.

thanks
Patrick

jerryD · Sep 8, 2005

this should help. don't forget the 4awg wire from battery to alternator post.

American_Muscle · Sep 8, 2005

I see what you're saying...but what's the conversion plug even for?

According to that diagram, it's just modifying the stock wires.

Sicarius428 · Sep 9, 2005

I cut the D plug off... I am never going back to the 2G so it wasn't a question in my mind. You should consider upgrading your power wiring... The dual power to the fuseable link was barely enough to keep up with the stock 75A. Just a thought.
Kevin

HISSIN50 · Sep 9, 2005

I have no idea what was asked, but on the white/blk stator wire, I simply Tee'd into it.
As mentioned, tape the end of the Big plug up real good and stick it out of the way (the charge cables are still hot so be sure it is insulated).

Good luck.

American_Muscle · Sep 9, 2005

Thanks guys.

Well I guess I wasted the money on the conversion plug.

I just cut and crimped the already existing wires.

Gotta love the 3G alts...14V at idle, baby!

Can't wait til I get my red top next week.

TRWXXA · Sep 10, 2005

Do not use the old power wires when doing the 3G upgrade!!! The old dual wires were barely capable of handling the maximum output of the 75 amp alternator. Use them on a 130 amp alternator, and you are asking for an engine compartment fire -- especially if you are adding amplifiers, lights, and/or electric fans that are going to use a good part of that 130 amps.

Get the wiring upgrade kit with the inline fuse. $50 may sound expensive now, but it's cheap compared to an electrical fire.

jrichker · Sep 10, 2005

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.

Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. You will have fused the circuit to pass 190-215 amps (125-150 amps depending on fuse size for the 4 gauge main and 65 amps for the two 10 gauge wires). The resultant overcurrent capacity can make a nasty fire if the alternator develops a full internal short to ground.

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

Don’t forget the alternator power ground!!!
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

HISSIN50 · Sep 10, 2005

TRWXXA said:
Do not use the old power wires when doing the 3G upgrade!!! The old dual wires were barely capable of handling the maximum output of the 75 amp alternator. Use them on a 130 amp alternator, and you are asking for an engine compartment fire -- especially if you are adding amplifiers, lights, and/or electric fans that are going to use a good part of that 130 amps.

Get the wiring upgrade kit with the inline fuse. $50 may sound expensive now, but it's cheap compared to an electrical fire.

Wise advice here. Just this week there was a poor guy who had retained the stock wires and used a 40 amp fuse on each one or both or something like that.
He was blowing the 40 amp fuse and it was my guess that there was an issue with the new cable he ran, so power was trying to take the new path of least resistance (the stock wires). I think we convinced him to get some 4 AWG cable and omit the stock charge wires at the alternator (but retain their connection at the solenoid).

Dont forget the power ground upgrade.

Good luck.

04sleeper · Sep 10, 2005

When I did my upgrade I used this wire.

3G Alternator Harness $20.00

Did I need it? No. But it did make a nicer install with new plugs, and for $20 I thought it was worth it. I also stripped out the old 10 gauge factory wire out of the harness that runs to the solenoid and replaced it with 4 gauge.

Then I added a 1/0 gauge ground wire from the block to the inner fender along with replacing the firewall to head ground strap with a new larger one.

I also put on an overdrive alternator pulley to help with my underdrive crank pulley. Worked like a charm.

Daggar · Sep 10, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
Wise advice here. Just this week there was a poor guy who had retained the stock wires and used a 40 amp fuse on each one or both or something like that.
He was blowing the 40 amp fuse and it was my guess that there was an issue with the new cable he ran, so power was trying to take the new path of least resistance (the stock wires). I think we convinced him to get some 4 AWG cable and omit the stock charge wires at the alternator (but retain their connection at the solenoid).

Dont forget the power ground upgrade.

Good luck.

No further comment required.

91foxbodygt · Sep 10, 2005

so the way shown in fordmuscle.com is wrong? check it out The two black with orange stripe wires got connected to the 3g. just wondering since this is the way i did it

Daggar · Sep 10, 2005

When you're using the upgrade harness, the stock black/orange wires should remain capped and disconnected from the alternator. The upgrade wire goes fromthe back of the alternator to the positive terminal on the starter solenoid. Even disconnected, the black/orange will still see voltage but will not be carrying the current from the alternator. This keeps you from "cooking" those black/orange wires if you're running accessories on the electrical system that are pulling more current than those stock wires are capable of handling.

04sleeper · Sep 10, 2005

I just stripped out the old 10 gauge factory wire out of the harness that runs to the solenoid and replaced it with the 4 gauge.

HISSIN50 · Sep 10, 2005

89sleeper said:
I just stripped out the old 10 gauge factory wire out of the harness that runs to the solenoid and replaced it with the 4 gauge.

Kevin, I think you had to reconnect the switch and sense wire if you removed the stock charge cable (right?). Otherwise it seems like you can just yank that out, which might mislead people (well, simpletons like me).

Another member and I debated the F-M article method and either works, but I like the idea of not reusing the stock charge cable. He had followed their write-up but after we debated a little, I think he was going to remove the stock wires from the alternator's charge post. I see having the stock wires connected as one more thing to go wrong.

Good luck.

American_Muscle · Sep 10, 2005

I did what the diagram in the 2nd post by JerryD says and got the power wire upgrade kit from 50resto with the fuse etc.
I connected it from the pos. solenoid and ran that to the alt.
That's it right?

HISSIN50 · Sep 10, 2005

American_Muscle said:
I did what the diagram in the 2nd post by JerryD says and got the power wire upgrade kit from 50resto with the fuse etc.
I connected it from the pos. solenoid and ran that to the alt.
That's it right?

If you did not hook up anything from the rectangular plug to the alt, sans the stator wire, that should be alright (unless I am missing something here).

04sleeper · Sep 10, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
Kevin, I think you had to reconnect the switch and sense wire if you removed the stock charge cable (right?). Otherwise it seems like you can just yank that out, which might mislead people (well, simpletons like me).

Another member and I debated the F-M article method and either works, but I like the idea of not reusing the stock charge cable. He had followed their write-up but after we debated a little, I think he was going to remove the stock wires from the alternator's charge post. I see having the stock wires connected as one more thing to go wrong.

Good luck.

Yes JT, that is what I meant. I hope I did not confuse anyone. I wasn't trying to.

I felt the same way about the F-M article as you.

American_Muscle · Sep 11, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
If you did not hook up anything from the rectangular plug to the alt, sans the stator wire, that should be alright (unless I am missing something here).

I thought the black/orange wires had to be attached to the alt as well?(as well as the stator wire)

If not, then most write-ups on the 3G install are wrong.

So the 4AWG cable replaces the 2 black/orange wires?

04sleeper · Sep 11, 2005

American_Muscle said:
I thought the black/orange wires had to be attached to the alt as well?(as well as the stator wire)

If not, then most write-ups on the 3G install are wrong.

So the 4AWG cable replaces the 2 black/orange wires?

Yes, the 4 gauge replaces the black/orange wires. If you trace the 2 black/orange wires back a little in the wire loom, they are soldered to 1 black/orange wire that runs to the solenoid. I'm not sure of Ford's thinking behind this but it is very weak at best. You would think both wires would run all the way back but they don't. That is why I stripped these wires out of the harness.
Also, the stator wire still has to be hooked up.

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