3G alternator conversion

stangman16 · Dec 15, 2009

Picked up a Tuares 3g alternator and I'm finally getting around to converting, though I have a couple of questions.

Got the pulley off of both, and as a shim I used the 1G alternators lock washer and then put on the pulley and torqued it down to 77lbs. Is 77lbs enough to satisfy safety requirements? I figured if the 1G used the lock washer then I could use it again as a shim, then the pulley, followed by the pulley nut.

Found a diagram on the 3G conversion and obtained the 175 amp mega fuse. My next question is about the 'I' terminal wire that is supposed to go to the starter switch that is hot in run/start. What and where is the starter switch?? (starter solenoid?)

It appears I won't be using any of the old alternator wires (correct me if wrong please), nor my electronic voltage regulator. I'm not concerned about deleting these wires as I'll be getting one of those EZwiring 20 circuit harnesses probably in a few months. I just need to figure out where the starter switch is..

68stang351 · Dec 15, 2009

Are you looking for the starter solenoid? It's at the end of your positive battery cable mounted on the passenger side fenderwell between the battery and the shock tower.

stangman16 · Dec 15, 2009

I apologize, I have the "A" wire running back to the alternator per another diagram I found. (one that goes to B+ terminal)

I'm trying to figure out the wire labeled "I" on the alternator - where it goes to. What colored wire goes to the ignition switch?

Ronstang · Dec 16, 2009

I personally don't use mega-fuses. I use fusible links like the factory does. I use two 12 gauge fusible link wires with ring eyes on the ends. They can be put together in the ring eyes or separate. Then I make a connection block with terminals that you simply use nuts to hold the fusible links to the connection block. I carry spares in the glove box or trunk.

pyroman · Dec 16, 2009

You're talking about where to route the LT GRN/RED wire coming off the alternator right?

If so I asked a similar question a few months back in this thread.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/799456-bizarre-alternator-starting-issue.html

Let me know if that doesn't answer your question.

stangman16 · Dec 16, 2009

pyroman said:
You're talking about where to route the LT GRN/RED wire coming off the alternator right?

Yes - that's the wire. So it splices into a blk/wht wire where the voltage regulator is on the radiator support. I see i need to get a 560 Ohm resistor - which one did you end up choosing?

And do I have to get a 4ga wire going from the alternator to the fuse block ? (post 6 from your link)

Edit: one of these resistors? 560 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5 - RadioShack.com

pyroman · Dec 16, 2009

stangman16 said:
Yes - that's the wire. So it splices into a blk/wht wire where the voltage regulator is on the radiator support. I see i need to get a 560 Ohm resistor - which one did you end up choosing?

And do I have to get a 4ga wire going from the alternator to the fuse block ? (post 6 from your link)

Edit: one of these resistors? 560 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5 - RadioShack.com

The wire I spliced it into was also GRN/RED at the voltage regulator connector. If you don't have the ALT Warning light then yea you need the 560 Ohm resistor. I actually haven't bought the resistor yet, was waiting for feedback on that.

As far as the 4 AWG wire goes, I ran my 4 AWG fire through the 175A fuse and then to the starter solenoid. Are you currently using a 4 AWG wire? As long as you have it running through an appropriate sized fuse with the correct sized wire it shouldn't matter how your go about your wiring.

stangman16 · Dec 16, 2009

pyroman said:
The wire I spliced it into was also GRN/RED at the voltage regulator connector. If you don't have the ALT Warning light then yea you need the 560 Ohm resistor. I actually haven't bought the resistor yet, was waiting for feedback on that.

As far as the 4 AWG wire goes, I ran my 4 AWG fire through the 175A fuse and then to the starter solenoid. Are you currently using a 4 AWG wire? As long as you have it running through an appropriate sized fuse with the correct sized wire it shouldn't matter how your go about your wiring.

I installed the 560 ohm resistor and found that same 904 Green/Red wire by the voltage regulator. It's just raining too much to continue, but I'll get that connection spliced tomorrow hopefully. (thanks for confirming that too! )

Not sure what AWG wire I am using, it's actually the one from the donor taures car I got it off of, but it may be a 6 AWG and I have the 175 amp mega fuse.

My old setup was GM alternator the p/o installed and it had a ground strap from it to the block. I just hooked that same ground up to the back of the 3G and I'm assuming that's just as good as strapping it to the body as that diagram shows..? then again, the p/o did install a chevy part in this car!

stangman16 · Dec 18, 2009

It appears to be working just fine, it's now charging at 13.3-14 volts (13.3 when warm) and holds steady. Think before it was charging at about 12.2 which probably means my battery is on it's last leg.

Bought a $13 volt gauge (temporary solution till I can rewire everything) and installed it plugging into the fuse box, though I do have it on the wrong one as it stays hot when the key is off -so I'll find another location for that shortly.

--------on to the next project: Taures electric fan, gonna start doing research..I'm sure I'll post questions on that later.

Thank you much!

v8only · Dec 22, 2009

the taurus fan won't work without cutting it so far down it looks like a hack job. Relocate the radiator over either way a couple of inches...that will help you cut down the taurus fan less.

for the 12v on to the alt I cut right into the ignit switch behind the key. that's the only real source to pull from.

you'll find though that many things will need a 12v switched on, including modern stereo's, your 3g alternator, your taurus fan, your duraspark/elec ignit and so forth.

for this reason, i'm in process of wiring in a 12v SWITCHED/KEY ON fuse box.....i'm running a fused wire between the keyed switch on, to a relay, then into a fuse box that has 6 positions, so I'll be able to turn one switched on source into a fused 6 switched on box.

stangman16 · Dec 22, 2009

v8only said:
the taurus fan won't work without cutting it so far down it looks like a hack job. Relocate the radiator over either way a couple of inches...that will help you cut down the taurus fan less.

for the 12v on to the alt I cut right into the ignit switch behind the key. that's the only real source to pull from.

you'll find though that many things will need a 12v switched on, including modern stereo's, your 3g alternator, your taurus fan, your duraspark/elec ignit and so forth.

for this reason, i'm in process of wiring in a 12v SWITCHED/KEY ON fuse box.....i'm running a fused wire between the keyed switch on, to a relay, then into a fuse box that has 6 positions, so I'll be able to turn one switched on source into a fused 6 switched on box.

Yeah, there's quite a few things and it is becoming a concern having too much stuff coming off the back of the ignition switch (like EFI, and what you mentioned).

Please keep me updated on your progress, that sounds like an interesting idea!

I'm not going to modify (cut) the fan yet until I get a new radiator sometime down the line. It'll probably look awkward but I'm not running a shroud right now - so it'll still flow much better.

v8only · Dec 22, 2009

yea, I kept the original mechanical fan too after buying a taurus fan, then cutting it down so far it looked like hell. I still may install it, but I need to find a way of making it look more professional.

My fuse box install is going to happen within the next week or two...I'll take pics of my install

3G alternator conversion

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