3G: Fused Finally

[glowstang93]

4 years ago I installed my 95 amp 3G alternator. Great improvement, have had no problems at all with it. Unlike the stock 75 amp alternator that craps out every 2 years and doesn't have enough amps to run anything besides the engine. Been reading posts and decided I should a fuse on that power wire and increase the gauge just in case the unthinkable happens. Untill today, this 10 ga wire is what I had for a power wire from the alternator to the solenoid..
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I now have 4 ga cable with a Bussman fuse holder w/100 amp fuse. Here is the link for the fuse holder. I got mine from the local Napa. http://www.bussauto.com/products/powerdist/

I used the Bussman fuse holder, A Napa 100 amp wafer fuse, a 19" and a 49" switch to starter battery cable 4 ga. All together about $30.00.

It was a little hard to find somewhere to mount the fuse holder, but ended up with the drivers side fender behind the strut mount. Had to use a spacer to mount the holder straight. I will be working on a black molded plastic piece to make it look better in the future.

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Picture of the solenoid where the cable was attached coming from the fuse holder. It had two nuts on it, but due to the bigger cable, I had to take one off then use it as a partial double nut on the solenoid stud.
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Picture of the back of 3G alternator. Had to change the end of the cable to fit this connection, only one that didn't fit without major modification.
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Thank you to all the fellow stangers on here for their help on this topic.

 

[glowstang93]

I do have a question. With this 95 amp alternator, what size fuse would be the best. I have a 100 amp in it now which I believe would be correct, and has been suggested. Does anyone have an opinion on fuse size?

 

[Jaswir]

i would go a lil bigger just incase you wanna go bigger ALT in the future... i run 150amp fuse on a 130amp alt... you wont hurt anything going a lil bigger for the same price

 

[GreatWhite]

ditto on that, I got a 200amp fuse for my 130amp 3g

 

[HISSIN50]

On the other hand, if the existing fuse doesnt blow (e.g. I run a 150 amp fuse on a 160 amp alt), it should do ok.

I'd combine both ideas: grab a spare fuse (125 amp or so) and keep it in the glove box (I did on both stangs) in case you need it. Then you have a spare and a bigger one.
Slow burn fuses blow as a function of load and time - it's not a super precise thing.

MHO.

And nice write up Anthony - I like your fuse holder a lot more than mine - I might have to swap around.

 

[tmoss]

I put an RV 150 amp circuit breaker in my 150 amp 3G - if it trips, I can re-set it.

 

[87Mustang351]

i have heard if you do under drive pullys on your car that, it doesnt charge as well so would i have to upgrade to a 3g altanator?

 

[glowstang93]

Thank you Hissin

I am actually going to do what you suggested. I am going to stay with the 100 amp for now and keep a 150 in the car for backup. I also already have 2 extra 100 amps as backup too. I'll give it a while and ebay what I don't need.

The specs on this fuse are in this link: http://www.bussauto.com/pdf/amg.pdf

It says that with a 100 amp fuse if there is 100 amps coming thru, it will take a minimum of 4 hrs to blow and if there is 135 amps coming thru, it will take between 2 min-30 min to blow. With this information, using a 150 amp doesn't make any sense at all. Even though PA Performance suggested to use the 150.

I had a terrible time finding a fuseholder on the internet, just got lucky with NAPA having one in stock.

 

[jrichker]

Thank you Hissin

I am actually going to do what you suggested. I am going to stay with the 100 amp for now and keep a 150 in the car for backup. I also already have 2 extra 100 amps as backup too. I'll give it a while and ebay what I don't need.

The specs on this fuse are in this link: http://www.bussauto.com/pdf/amg.pdf

It says that with a 100 amp fuse if there is 100 amps coming thru, it will take a minimum of 4 hrs to blow and if there is 135 amps coming thru, it will take between 2 min-30 min to blow. With this information, using a 150 amp doesn't make any sense at all. Even though PA Performance suggested to use the 150.

I had a terrible time finding a fuseholder on the internet, just got lucky with NAPA having one in stock.

Now you know why I suggested a 100 amp fuse. Unless there is a direct short, it takes a while to blow the fuse. A simple, short term overload will not usually cause the fuse to blow.

 

[glowstang93]

Now you know why I suggested a 100 amp fuse. Unless there is a direct short, it takes a while to blow the fuse. A simple, short term overload will not usually cause the fuse to blow.

Please forgive me for doubting your wisdom. I will not let it happen again

Seriously, You offer very good and useful information on here and I appreciate it. Thank you for all that you do to help make this site one of the best.

 

[jrichker]

Please forgive me for doubting your wisdom. I will not let it happen again

Seriously, You offer very good and useful information on here and I appreciate it. Thank you for all that you do to help make this site one of the best.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I am here to help all who are interested. I have learned a great deal about Mustangs here, so I want to pass it on.

 

[HISSIN50]

Sheesh, I try to fill in a little bit when Joe and Tom arent around. I'm way outclassed at this point so I best bug-out for now.

Tom, I had considered using a CB (I have a 90 amper for the '94 - it's gonna serve dual duty as a distribution block for some things, and primary circuit protection for all the crap I have attached to the battery). But I don't have a CB for the alternator yet. I've been keepin my eyes peeled for a deal on one though......... It seems like a great way to do it.

 

[tmoss]

Tom, I had considered using a CB (I have a 90 amper for the '94 - it's gonna serve dual duty as a distribution block for some things, and primary circuit protection for all the crap I have attached to the battery). But I don't have a CB for the alternator yet. I've been keepin my eyes peeled for a deal on one though......... It seems like a great way to do it.

www.evparts.com

Part # CB5510
"Hi-Amp" 30vdc 150A
Manual trip & reset (nice if you want to manually disconect the battery from the alt).
$36.50 when I bought it.............

 

[HISSIN50]

www.evparts.com

Part # CB5510
"Hi-Amp" 30vdc 150A
Manual trip & reset (nice if you want to manually disconect the battery from the alt).
$36.50 when I bought it.............

Thank you sir - checking it out right now.

 

[tmoss]

I did too - it's a little over $40 now. NIce piece and it's smaller than it looks. I mounted it to the edge of the battery tray on the back side.

 

[glowstang93]

Don't worry Hissin... the love is still there. Thanks for all you do too.

 

[stangs4evr-roy]

thanx guys for your help im sure it will help.

 

[89white50]

whats an easy way to tell if you have the 95 amp or 130 amp 3g? i got a brand new off a tauras wago, cant remember which year though. it was only 15 bucks and it was brand new though. it handles my stereo and and everything else just fine.

oh looks great by the way, mine is all the same except i have the 175 amp mega fuse, i really need one of those holders though.

 

[tmoss]

I don't know of a way to check the amp rating just by looking at the alternator - maybe someone else has a way. They come rated from about 95 amps up to 200 amps or so in the same casing.

 

[8950HO]

The 3g I got out of a 96 Taurus just says Motorcraft on the case.No amp rating listed.
An alternator rebuilder who put on a smaller pulley did a free computerised test and it was a 130amp unit.

My old 2g said 75amp on the case.

Kind of dumb as to why they don`t list a rating on the case.