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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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3G swap help

  • Thread starter Thread starter SMOKEDYA
  • Start date Start date Dec 28, 2011

SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 13, 2003
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Tucson AZ
Dec 28, 2011
#1
  • Dec 28, 2011
  • #1
I just installed my 3G tonight on my fox.I have a 91 SSP car,and after i installed my 3G and only running it for a few minutes (probably about 10 minutes max)the alt is warm.I ran the orange/black wires to the back of the alt and then ran a 4ga from the back of the alt (same as orange/black wires) over to the + of the stater solenoid.I have perfect charging by the stock gauge and also by putting an amp meter on the + of the alt as well as the battery.None of the wires get warm,just the alt it's self. It's WARM to the touch, NOT hot.....I followed the instructions in this link and IF i read right its saying to run BOTH orange/black wires AS WELL AS a 4ga off the alt and run the 4ga to the + of the solonoid?So where do the stock orange/black wires goto and what do they do?

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/m5lp_0806_fox_mustang_alternator/viewall.html peace



















john
 

Beasty306GT

Active Member
Dec 19, 2002
671
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Oxford,Mass
Dec 28, 2011
#2
  • Dec 28, 2011
  • #2
you only want the 4 gauge wire going to the alt...the 2 other stock 10 gauge ones u got hooked up should be left alone and not hooked up
 

SMOKEDYA

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Dec 28, 2011
#3
  • Dec 28, 2011
  • #3
With the orange/black hooked up also is that causing It to get warm? Also what do those wires go to?
 

ID89GT

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May 26, 2008
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Dec 28, 2011
#4
  • Dec 28, 2011
  • #4
The black/orange wires were the charging wires before you added the 4 gauge wire. So with the 4 gauge they are no longer needed so are not used
 

jrichker

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Dec 28, 2011
#5
  • Dec 28, 2011
  • #5
Here is the reasoning behind using only a single 4 gauge fused power feed to the alternator. If you use the two 10 gauge black/orange wires in addition to the 4 gauge wire, you have two fused power feed paths. The total current capacity of the wiring is the sum of the fused paths. The 4 gauge path is fused for 125 amps, and the two 10 gages wires are fused for 60 amps. That is a total of 185 amps, which exceeds the capacity of the alternator. Overload can occur without the fuses blowing, damaging the alternator.

The worst case scenario is that the alternator develops an internal short to ground resulting in a catastrophic failure. The initial short circuit surge current is limited by the resistance of the wiring. The current in a parallel circuit divides up according to the resistance of the branches. If the 4 gauge fuse opens up first, the two 10 gauge black/orange wires will be carrying the short circuit surge current. Depending on the time lag of the fuse links, they may open up before a fire starts or they may not.



Stangnet 3G install sticky http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/646825-3g-alternator-install-how.html#post6673702
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
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Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Dec 29, 2011
#6
  • Dec 29, 2011
  • #6
ID89GT said:
The black/orange wires were the charging wires before you added the 4 gauge wire. So with the 4 gauge they are no longer needed so are not used
Click to expand...
Correct. But I might add, do not remove the other end from the starter relay, because doing so, will disconnect the voltage sensing path to the voltage regulator. Trace is back through this pic.
 

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j0Hn10

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Dec 29, 2011
#7
  • Dec 29, 2011
  • #7
3G alternators generally get warm or even slightly hot to the touch as you approach operating and high loaded conditions. If the alternator casing is chrome, or painted this will add to the resulting temperature as these surface treatments both thermally and electrically insulate. In this case ensuring you have a good ground to the alternator as this will help mitigate the issue.
 
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