4.10s in and making noise!

peepeeskillz · Jan 6, 2010

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx259/peepeeskillz/2010-01-06100033.jpg
here is a pic of my pinions, the left is the 4.10, i think the lip on the 3.27 is actually a little higher than the 4.10
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx259/peepeeskillz/2010-01-06100102.jpg
the one on the right is the original crush sleeve and it measures .440, the one on the left is the new one that is a little crushed and it measures .532.

but i dont know it seems like more like its a problem on the other side though. like maybe my races isnt seated all the way and is keeping my flange from going all the way down. because the flange will go down so far then it will just stop and it wont budge

Tanus · Jan 6, 2010

if you have a feeler gauge try to slide it between the race and the seat, but I dont think thats the problem. put it together with old sleeve, bet it works. keep at it though.

peepeeskillz · Jan 6, 2010

i messed up!!

i i tried just putting the flange on the without the pinion(just holding it with my hand) to see if it would go in all the way, and it did. so i decided to try what tanus said and i put my old crush sleeve on, and sure enough it worked and my flange went all the way down, and i was so happy i was turning the wrench all fast. and i measured the preload, and it measured less than 20 in/lbs so i gave it a little bit more than 1/4 of a turn and now my preload is 35in/lbs!! should i take one of the other crush sleeves and grind it down? but atleast i know my flange will fully seat

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx259/peepeeskillz/2010-01-06144800.jpg
just to be safe is this what a fullly seated flange should look like? or should there be absolutely no gap? because when i was trying it by hand it would not go in any farther either, also there is no in and out play

wmburns · Jan 6, 2010

Flange looks reasonable to me.

The torque spec for new bearings is 16-29 inch-pounds. So at 35 inch-pounds, you are over.

The effect of being over will be increased wear on the pinion bearings.

However.......the pinion pre-load should be the steady state turning force of the pinion. Note, it takes slightly more effort to start something turning than to maintain rotation. That is why a beam style torque wrench is better for this job.

Consider the limitations of your measurment device. Say for example the initial break away torque is 35 in-lb. But the continued rotational torque will be less.

So it is possible that you are actually within spec (high end).

If you want my opinion as to what to do, you are own your own. For myself, I absolutely HATE to re-do jobs. If there is any doubt, I personally would rather take the time/$$ to get it right if at all possible.

But on the other hand, we are not building NASA rockets here. The margin of error is about 10% which may be within the limitations of the torque wrench.

Tanus · Jan 6, 2010

+1^ difference between 20 and 35 inch pounds is hardly any. your good to go, all the installs ive done ive never even measured that (just went by feel).

Its funny, my friend had a shop install his gears (didnt trust me, rather spend 800 like an idiot, haha) once he picked it back up, thing would clunk anytime you got on/off the gas or shifted, took it back twice, fixed that but could never get the gears to stop "whining", shop told him it was normal for tall gears, hahaha

peepeeskillz · Jan 7, 2010

kk thx for all the help guys!
ill have to put my car back together some other time though because its toooo cold today

fast97gt · Jan 8, 2010

when i did mine i had to use a grade 8 bolt threaded through the flange to help hold the flange from turning while preloading the crush sleeve. now i used an old racers trick and messured the the pr;oaded crush after taking it apart, and cut a peice of steel tube (the same diameter) to the same thickness of the newly preloaded sleeve. installed the steel tube, torqued the flange nut (used a brand new one) got ratational drag in spec, and wala perfect. why did i do this some of you ask, well take after 30,000 or so hard miles af banging throught the gears and check the pinion preload and rotatioanal drag. its all of spec now. only because the crush sleeve still crushs every time you slam gears, and mine you ask, well 60,000 miles trouble free, and have gone through a motor and 2 trannys

peepeeskillz · Jan 11, 2010

well i put my car back together today and drove it for 10 miles. and there are no clunking noises or anything, also shifter doesnt vibrate when engine braking anymore.

i have learned a lesson, never attempted a gear swap on a DD, especially if its your first time! lol
thx for all the help guys!!!!

Kilgore Trout · Jan 11, 2010

Great news!

Tanus · Jan 11, 2010

how'd you solve the crush sleeve issue?

peepeeskillz · Jan 11, 2010

i just used the original one, and i rechecked my rotational drag by getting it started with my hand, then using the wrench to keep it moving, and it was under 29in/lb so i just left it lol.

Tanus · Jan 12, 2010

yeah I figured that'd do it.

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