429 Thunderjet into 68 fastback

tamadrummer88

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Aug 19, 2005
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Aloha State
I got a 429 Thunderjet sitting here. I wanna throw it into my 68.


First all, someone told me i cant run power brakes because the valve covers are too tall and would hit the booster. Is that true? If so, what kind of power brake system can i run?

Im gonna dress it and throw a set of aluminum heads and intake on it. what woud you reccommend?

Weight doesent matter to me, as its a weekend cruiser. what motor mounts do i need? headers?

As for the trans, i know im gonna need a C6. What kind of stall should i go with? Shift kit?



Thanks guys.
 
First of all, what year is your TJ and have you pulled any castings from it yet? Do you have a C9, D1VE or D0VE block? What heads do you have, D3 or D0VE? 429's in particular are prone to piston skirt cracking, which leads to moderate cylinder wall damage, I would suggest inspecting the shortblock before going forward. I am going to assume that you have D0VE heads, if this is the case, you have a few more options.

To answer your first question, yes you can run a power booster with a 429/460 variant engine, however it depends on your swap combination and motor mounts. There are a lot of companies out there that make swap kits now, you can find them by doing a quick google search. Probably the most reputable company right now is http://www.critesrestoration.com/. A couple benefits of their mounts is that if will raise and pull your engine forward about 1", giving added clearance for a powerbooster, and header to crossmember clearance. They also recently came out with their Generation II headers which I'd strongly recommend. You can also find headers from FPA (shorty), D&D, and MPG head service. Another option is to go on summit and purchase flanges which then you can have custom headers made at an exhaust shop.

You will also need to consider your suspension, a SB swaybar will hug the oil pan, Mustangs Unlimited sells a sway bar designed for a bigblock, it has a different curve to it for added clearance. Springs you have more options than a SB, but a good option would be a 600# designed for a 351 range SB, it will give you a 1" drop with better handling.

Transmissions you have even more options. The cheapest option will be a C6 transmission, you will most likely not need to rebuild it, however it's never a bad idea not to. You CAN run a C4 transmission, however it will need to be built and you will need the correct bellhousing, this a more expensive option. You also have the option of running an AOD with a bellhousing correct for a 429/460/351M/400 variant. You also have the option of a powerglide, but it will cost about the same as a C4. Of course, you will need the correct flexplate, starter and torque convertor for these applications depending on your transmission choice. You have choices on transmission crossmembers, you will find all but the AOD and powerglide crossmember at any vendor, you will most likely have to use either a swap or a universal crossmember. You will be fine with a 2500 stall would be fine on the street. You can bump it up to 3000 if you'd like some infrequent track runs.

You have so many engine options, it's going to be up to you how much you power you want. Are you planning on keeping the stock 429 stroke? You can always get a 460 crank and pistons and up the ci to a 460".

Now, assuming that you have D0VE heads, these are still good heads and have potentional, these heads can become very stout when you port them, install new valves, mill them down to 72cc, etc. This would be my first option for budget, next would be a pair of A429 or A460 heads, which also can be ported. An Edelbrock Victor intake, matched would be a good combo with these heads. Holley 850-900, and I would call a cam manufacturer for suggestions or get a custom grind depending on your configuration in the end.

That should give you enough power to merge into traffic.
 
I got a 429 Thunderjet sitting here. I wanna throw it into my 68.


First all, someone told me i cant run power brakes because the valve covers are too tall and would hit the booster. Is that true? If so, what kind of power brake system can i run?

Im gonna dress it and throw a set of aluminum heads and intake on it. what woud you reccommend?

Weight doesent matter to me, as its a weekend cruiser. what motor mounts do i need? headers?

As for the trans, i know im gonna need a C6. What kind of stall should i go with? Shift kit?


Thanks guys.
:D You make it all sound so easy.:rlaugh: "throwing" parts and engines in the car.........:D Can't say about the power brakes, but aluminum head choices are slim for the 385 series. Your heads are the best starting points, "throw" some CJ sized valves and porting to match in them and you'll have excellant heads. As for a stall converter, that's gonna depend on the cam and final build. No point in buying parts ahead of your needs.
 
jades pretty well nailed i for you. a couple of things though;

1: if you want to use an AOD-E you will need either efi or a stand alone trans controller. baumann has one.

2: since you will likely want to use power steering, even with aluminum heads that big block is heavy, you can use a hydroboost unit from a lincoln towncar from the late 70's.
 
jades pretty well nailed i for you. a couple of things though;

1: if you want to use an AOD-E you will need either efi or a stand alone trans controller. baumann has one.

2: since you will likely want to use power steering, even with aluminum heads that big block is heavy, you can use a hydroboost unit from a lincoln towncar from the late 70's.


lincoln versailles hydroboost unit for power brakes will work as well, or you can buy a complete kit from http://www.hydratechbraking.com/
 
lincoln versailles hydroboost unit for power brakes will work as well, or you can buy a complete kit from http://www.hydratechbraking.com/


oh yeah, the stock power booster will probably work fine but certain booster and valve cover combo's will make this impossible, so you need to choose them carefully, basically stock booster and short valve covers. not sure if the crites motor mounts will solve that or not
 
Its a 429 out of a 71 T bird.


Later down the road i plan to run the RRS strut type front suspension.


So i can run an AODE, but all i need is the correct bellhousing?
There's more you'll have to get with it.

Of course, you'll need the AODE, an adapter plate kit, Baumann Engineering TCS Transmission controller, the correct torque convertor, flexplate, wiring harness, transmission cooler, transmission crossmember, and possibily Baumann's valvebody.

You shouldn't have problems running power steering, if you WANT manual steering, you can swap out the waterpump to early 70's lincoln for more clearance as well. However with the Crites mounts it does raise the engine about an inch so you are getting a little more space to work with, as well since it pulls it forward you have more clearance to run a power booster too.

Since you have a 429 out of a 71', you SHOULD have D0VE-C heads. I would take this to a machine shop, have them ported, throw on some CJ valves, along with new seats, springs, retainers, etc. I would have them milled down to 72cc's and you'll have an excellent pair of cylinder heads.
 
Tubular makes a few sets of headers for this swap.
They bolt in one tube at a time, which makes for an easier install IMO.
Things will be very tight...
 

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Yeah, everyone should have manual drums like me. They work just fine.....until you want to stop. :rolleyes:

Another option for power brakes in tight places is the latemodel hydroboost system. It uses a power steering pump and runs hoses to a small hydraulic booster. Then again, I just stumbled on a picture of a stock Boss 429 engine bay and there was a vacuum booster behind that mountain of an engine.
 
There's a guy named Gary Ericksen who is selling (reproducing?) the aluminum bracket that goes between the firewall and booster on a stock Boss 429. It angles the stock Bendix booster so that it clears the Boss 9 valve cover, so it should clear regular 385 valve covers easy... so long as you use Boss 9 engine mounts that is. He was set up as a vendor at the Columbus Ohio Spring swap meet. He was asking $200 for it IIRC.

OK, there aren't nearly as many BB aluminum heads as there are for the small block, but there are at least 3 that use both stock intake and exhaust patterns, and 2 that use Chevy exhaust patterns, one of which (A460) that requires a unique single plane intake. I won't count the race only FRPP offerings. The BB really needs the weight loss IMO.
 
There's a guy named Gary Ericksen who is selling (reproducing?) the aluminum bracket that goes between the firewall and booster on a stock Boss 429. It angles the stock Bendix booster so that it clears the Boss 9 valve cover, so it should clear regular 385 valve covers easy.

I wonder if that Aluminum piece isn't the same one used in the 70's Mavericks and Comets for their power brake setup ? If it was, then I sure screwed up and sold all that stuff, lump sum to a guy who wanted powerbrakes on his Maverick. He got two large boxes (for a $100 and a four month, hair pulling ordeal to get him to live up to his end of the bargain on the shipping charges)with all the P/B and A/C stuff from inside the dash of the 77 Comet I have now. :bang:
 
I dunno, could be. It was cast and angled wider at the bottom than the top. Even if the Maverick isn't the same as the Boss piece, it might serve the same purpose.

I know the Mavericks came with staggered rear shocks and the driver side plate is very close to the Boss 302/428 CJ piece. Some day I may convert over now that the upper mount kit is available on ebay.
 
The Mav/Comet piece was about 2-4 inches thick and angled the master cylinder inward towards the engine side of the shock tower. The brake pedal and hanger were also unique to this setup. I had to scrounge a manual pedal and hanger to replace those too.