Ok you will need the follwingBulldogSr07 said:Has anybody ever heard of putting 4v heads on a 2v engine? I have a 98 GT and plan on putting PI heads on it, but if i could, would put the 4v cobra heads on it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
billfisher said:what he said plus maf for 24lb. (mine is 19lb programmed) and it has to go.
blackfang said:Ok you will need the follwing
4V heads and cams
4V intake
TB
24 lb/hr injectors
pistons for the increase compression
crank being the 4V revs to 7k regularly
new 8 bolt flywheel as the GT is a 6 bolt
Alternator
a tune
And modify the Harness
Honestly all that its not worth the price when you can get a cobra longblock for 1500-2k
Gearbanger 101 said:Although this seems to be a pretty complete list, I'll go on record and say that the steel crank and therefore new flywheel aren't a definite necessary. The Mark VIII's use a nodular Iron Crank, as do the Automatic Mach 1's, with no issues. If you're going to be doing a lot of road racing and are really planning to scream it to 7,000+RPM on a regular basis, then it might not be a bad idea to go with a beefier rotating assembly, but otherwise I don't see it posing an issue.
You should know better than to trust the accuracy of a factory Tach. My old mans shifts past red line between 6,400-6,600RPM.tomustang said:[/IMG]Mark 8 6000rpms, don't know the auto mach's redline
that one was stick thoughGearbanger 101 said:You should know better than to trust the accuracy of a factory Tach. My old mans shifts past red line between 6,400-6,600RPM.
....and if we're going by what it says on the Tach, here's the Mach 1.
Yup and so is this one and look what the Tach says.....tomustang said:that one was stick though
God that car's interior looks so hotGearbanger 101 said:Yup and so is this one and look what the Tach says.....
Well many agree that it is best to use it. Yes the auto mach 1's dont constantly rev to 7k all the time either. Bill Putnam and a few others also recommend it. If you are gonna dump that much $$ into an engine do it right and eliminate any future potenial issues.Gearbanger 101 said:Although this seems to be a pretty complete list, I'll go on record and say that the steel crank and therefore new flywheel aren't a definite necessary. The Mark VIII's use a nodular Iron Crank, as do the Automatic Mach 1's, with no issues. If you're going to be doing a lot of road racing and are really planning to scream it to 7,000+RPM on a regular basis, then it might not be a bad idea to go with a beefier rotating assembly, but otherwise I don't see it posing an issue.
But that's just the thing....he's only talking about doing the head swap. If he's going to get into the engine to swap out the crank, then he may as well get rid of the stock rods and pistons while he's at it, since aside from the '03-'04 Cobra's all other 4V's have the same weak pistons and crack cap powdered rods that the 2V's do anyway.blackfang said:Well many agree that it is best to use it. Yes the auto mach 1's dont constantly rev to 7k all the time either. Bill Putnam and a few others also recommend it. If you are gonna dump that much $$ into an engine do it right and eliminate any future potenial issues.
jstreet0204 said:OEM MAF's are not calibrated to injector size. Injector size is set in the EEC by changing the hi/lo injector slopes. So this should be taken care of in the tune.
As far as the original post, I'm with Gearbanger. You'd come out cheaper getting a used 4v engine.
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