4v heads on a 2v engine

It's possible, but expensive. To tell you the truth, you’d be better off looking for an old Mark VIII engine if you want a 4V on a budget. Otherwise, you've not only got to supply the heads, but the intake, the entire front cover assembly, valve covers, brackets, pulleys, etc, etc. You'll be up into the thousands before you know it, when all along you could have gotten the 4V Mark Engine, with the additional weight savings benefit of an Aluminum block for about 1/3 of the price.
 
BulldogSr07 said:
Has anybody ever heard of putting 4v heads on a 2v engine? I have a 98 GT and plan on putting PI heads on it, but if i could, would put the 4v cobra heads on it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Ok you will need the follwing
4V heads and cams
4V intake
TB
24 lb/hr injectors
pistons for the increase compression
crank being the 4V revs to 7k regularly
new 8 bolt flywheel as the GT is a 6 bolt
Alternator
a tune
And modify the Harness

Honestly all that its not worth the price when you can get a cobra longblock for 1500-2k
 
billfisher said:
what he said plus maf for 24lb. (mine is 19lb programmed) and it has to go.

OEM MAF's are not calibrated to injector size. Injector size is set in the EEC by changing the hi/lo injector slopes. So this should be taken care of in the tune.

As far as the original post, I'm with Gearbanger. You'd come out cheaper getting a used 4v engine.
 
as these other guys said not worth it.. i remember some guys doing it just too have the cast iron block.. back when ford was developing the 03 cobra i got the chance too talk too a ford powertrain engineer.. and he told me the testing that ford did on a aluminum block version of the 03 cobra motor was a disaster..
 
blackfang said:
Ok you will need the follwing
4V heads and cams
4V intake
TB
24 lb/hr injectors
pistons for the increase compression
crank being the 4V revs to 7k regularly
new 8 bolt flywheel as the GT is a 6 bolt
Alternator
a tune
And modify the Harness

Honestly all that its not worth the price when you can get a cobra longblock for 1500-2k

Although this seems to be a pretty complete list, I'll go on record and say that the steel crank and therefore new flywheel aren't a definite necessary. The Mark VIII's use a nodular Iron Crank, as do the Automatic Mach 1's, with no issues. If you're going to be doing a lot of road racing and are really planning to scream it to 7,000+RPM on a regular basis, then it might not be a bad idea to go with a beefier rotating assembly, but otherwise I don't see it posing an issue.
 
Gearbanger 101 said:
Although this seems to be a pretty complete list, I'll go on record and say that the steel crank and therefore new flywheel aren't a definite necessary. The Mark VIII's use a nodular Iron Crank, as do the Automatic Mach 1's, with no issues. If you're going to be doing a lot of road racing and are really planning to scream it to 7,000+RPM on a regular basis, then it might not be a bad idea to go with a beefier rotating assembly, but otherwise I don't see it posing an issue.
dash1.jpg

Mark 8 6000rpms, don't know the auto mach's redline
 
tomustang said:
[/IMG]Mark 8 6000rpms, don't know the auto mach's redline
You should know better than to trust the accuracy of a factory Tach. My old mans shifts past red line between 6,400-6,600RPM. :D

....and if we're going by what it says on the Tach, here's the Mach 1.

mach1-gauges-700.webp
 

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Gearbanger 101 said:
You should know better than to trust the accuracy of a factory Tach. My old mans shifts past red line between 6,400-6,600RPM. :D

....and if we're going by what it says on the Tach, here's the Mach 1.

mach1-gauges-700.webp
that one was stick though :p

mach1-dash2-700.webp
 

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Gearbanger 101 said:
Although this seems to be a pretty complete list, I'll go on record and say that the steel crank and therefore new flywheel aren't a definite necessary. The Mark VIII's use a nodular Iron Crank, as do the Automatic Mach 1's, with no issues. If you're going to be doing a lot of road racing and are really planning to scream it to 7,000+RPM on a regular basis, then it might not be a bad idea to go with a beefier rotating assembly, but otherwise I don't see it posing an issue.
Well many agree that it is best to use it. Yes the auto mach 1's dont constantly rev to 7k all the time either. Bill Putnam and a few others also recommend it. If you are gonna dump that much $$ into an engine do it right and eliminate any future potenial issues.
 
blackfang said:
Well many agree that it is best to use it. Yes the auto mach 1's dont constantly rev to 7k all the time either. Bill Putnam and a few others also recommend it. If you are gonna dump that much $$ into an engine do it right and eliminate any future potenial issues.
But that's just the thing....he's only talking about doing the head swap. If he's going to get into the engine to swap out the crank, then he may as well get rid of the stock rods and pistons while he's at it, since aside from the '03-'04 Cobra's all other 4V's have the same weak pistons and crack cap powdered rods that the 2V's do anyway.

.....so if we go with the "if you're going to do it and spend that kind of money, do it right" theory, he may as well tack on another $2,000 to the expense of the head swap to do the internals and beef up the oiling system too.

....personally, I'd say screw it and live with the iron crank. :shrug:
 
The heads alone will boost the compression, so why would you not go with 4V pistons to match? It doewsn't make sense to keep the GT's pistons in a setup that has 4v heads and a higher compression right?

Bill also doesnt agree with doing it as he also has stated in the past that its best to get a new motor.
 
jstreet0204 said:
OEM MAF's are not calibrated to injector size. Injector size is set in the EEC by changing the hi/lo injector slopes. So this should be taken care of in the tune.

As far as the original post, I'm with Gearbanger. You'd come out cheaper getting a used 4v engine.


i don't have a factory maf, thanks.
 
cranks aren't really the issue are they?

items in order of failure?
#3 crank
#2 rods < 7k in 4.6:( #1 >7k)
#1 problem pistons are hypereutectic. great for piston/wall issues. great for low expansion high silicon content. stronger than older cast, but WILL pulverize themselves.

dude, i can tell you that you will want more out of it. i have driven mine for a few weeks, and i am already dissatisfied with it. do it right the first time.

ps. i revved it to 5700 by accident and it lived. can't do that too many times.