5.0 EFI Swap Need Help

ar1424

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Jul 19, 2004
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:bang: I just completed my 1965 Stang to EFI swap. Everything went well except one thing. IT WILL NOT START WITH THE TIMING SPOUT CONNECTED.
When I pulled out the timing spout works and idle great and is set to base timing 10 BTDC.

Everything seems to be working, I even bought a code scanner all I have in scanner is "111" system pass on KOEO.

I have double check all wiring connection, continuity, and grounds.

Any inputs is appreciated.
 
Wiring

Did you rewire the wiring harness or is it aftermarket? If you did it, did you pin out all of the connectors with a reputable diagram?

I'm lost on how it is stopping the engine from starting when installed. Sounds like it is grounding something that shouldn't be.
 
Glen's 1965 5.0 said:
Did you do the wiring harness or is it aftermarket? Of you did it did you pin out all of the connectors with a reputable diagram?

I'm lost on how it is stopping it from starting when installed. Sounds like it is either grounding something that shouldn't be.

It's a stock wiring harness, I took the complete EFI system from a 1991 Ford T-Bird. The only thing I need to wire is the EEC relay and fuel pump relay and other wire that needed to power up the EEC IV. I know it doesn't make sence, I've checked all the power source and ground wire everything has continuity and correct reading.
 
Glen's 1965 5.0 said:
You may have to check with a local mechanic and on your wiring diagram, on which wires are signal and which are return value wires. Then ascertain what the values are for these and verify with a meter.

I got the wiring harness schematic from Mitchel On Demmand, and some Web site on how swap to EFI including some troubleshooting what to check and what the reading should be.

I'll swap out the distributor and the TFI to see if any changes.
 
TT670 said:
sounds to me like you have a short to ground n the spout wiring.


I've tested all wiring including if anything is being grounded but could not find any.
When I tried to start it with the spout on and turning the distributor toward left a notch at the time it wants to start but it dies out? Could it be the timing advance to much or the timing 180* off, but why it would run fine with the spout off?
 
Ronstang said:
It sounds like you might have a faulty TFI module on the distributor. Do you know anyone you could borrow a distributor from for a quick check?

I tought about my TFi, ut it doesn't make sence it runs without the spot. I don't know if the TFI are different fron other Ford cars. My EFI setup has a remote TFI since it won't start the first time I ran it I've got some remote TFI from V6 Ford T-Bird are they compatible or the same part? If not maybe thats my problem. I'm trying to cut corner $$$$ new TFI cost $$$$71.00, so getting one from wrecking yard would be cheap. As soon I get some $$$$ I'll buy, unless some body out ther can advice me what actualy my problem.
 
The Spout bypasses part of the TFI so no spark advance occurs. It does make sense why it might run with it unplugged but not plugged in. I'm not sure about using one from a different engine.....you should go to the auto parts store and see if the part #s are the same for the one you took off the 6 cyl car...if not then get the right one.
 
Ronstang said:
The Spout bypasses part of the TFI so no spark advance occurs. It does make sense why it might run with it unplugged but not plugged in. I'm not sure about using one from a different engine.....you should go to the auto parts store and see if the part #s are the same for the one you took off the 6 cyl car...if not then get the right one.


I have put new TFI trying starting the car with the SPOUT in still wont start. Checked the spark using the timing light from the coil wire and only spark once in maybe 5 rotation.

What else I need to check.....HELP... :bang:
 
Are you sure you have hooked the ignition lead from the EFI harness to a good solid 12 source form the car that can provide the kind of amperage needed to make the ignition work? Check the voltage to the coil. See if it drops. We had this exact problem on an EFI conversion. My friend hooked it up and did not use the 12V+ wire I told him too and picke one on his own.....it had 12V with the key on but 4V cranking.
 
Ronstang said:
Are you sure you have hooked the ignition lead from the EFI harness to a good solid 12 source form the car that can provide the kind of amperage needed to make the ignition work? Check the voltage to the coil. See if it drops. We had this exact problem on an EFI conversion. My friend hooked it up and did not use the 12V+ wire I told him too and picke one on his own.....it had 12V with the key on but 4V cranking.

Pin# 1 is a direct hookup from the + battery post, Pin# 37, and 57 VPWR from EEC Relay.
The EEC relay is activated by the ignition wire that has power start and run position. The 12v is coming from the + battery post (relay) then to #37, and #57 pin (VPWR). I'll checked and see if I get 12V in crancking. Its kind of confusing the car runs good without the SPOUT in. :bang:
 
Ronstang said:
I don't know from here. Did you look at the schematic and try to figure out what might be happening?

What about the computer, would the car start if the computer is bad or some what bad? I'm currently looking for one? I have the mustang computer A9P but I don't feel like moving some pins arround to match the A9P computer pins.
 
Ronstang said:
Can you run a code scan on the system? have you checked the computer side of the spout connector to make sure it isn't grounded like suggested earlier?

I did a scan checked and no error. Checked the spout plug to the computer checked all pins and wire no other continuity(not grounded) but one and what it should be. :bang: