5.0 EFI swappers- Electrical Question

[68converted]

There is a ton of info out there on the wiring diagrams. I have it all, and now I am just a little confused. Does anyone have a specific list of wires that stay and those that go (eliminated)?

I have everything labled out; (wife helped with color coding as I am more or less color blind- very cool lady!). After everyone has done it, have you kept the list of what was removed/added? Can I have it. My energy and time are stretched to the limit this summer and I just want to get on the road!

Thanks to the good soul who can provide a list of what to do. Heck, I can't understand why it is not in the FAQ yet. Anyone?

Thanks folks!

 

[mustangracer]

Well, I'll be able to help in a bit. I'm in the process of swapping my 65 to EFI, but I haven't finished sorting out the wiring.

The ford motorsport wiring kit manual has been the most helpful so far, it's only 5 bucks from your ford dealer. It also depends on if you are using the smog pump also, there are 3 connections included in the FMS wiring kit for the TAB/TAD/CANP solenoids that can be replaced with resistors to keep the check engine light off.

 

[TT670]

These are the EEC connector pins that ARE NOT used, depending on the car they came from they may or may not already have wires but it was easier to list them this way than to list the wires you keep. As numbered in the 60 pin eec connector. 2,5,8,10,11,23,24,27,28,31,32,33,34,35,38,39,41,44,51,53,54,55. Like I said some of these pins may already be empty. You dont need any TAB, TAD or EGR stuff(get an eliminator kit). Im very experienced in this stuff and am willing to offer any help you may want or need. I also suggest removing the factory fuseable links and using a small fuse bock, along with individual relays instead of fords 2 that cover everything... It makes troubleshooting a whole lot easier and also reduces each circuit to a max load of .75 amps. Grounds are VITALLY IMPORTANT, there are 2 eec grounds, one is the case ground thats right off the 60 pin connector that simply connects to a solid body or chassis ground and the other is the EEC ground (blk with white stripe)thats in the engine compartment and has what looks like an fuse connector near the end, this wire MUST be connected to the batterys negative terminal. In addition the engine must have a very good ground to the chassis( I use 2, front, 1 rear off the heads). Be sure to solder and shrink tube everything you splice. Feel free to contact me at [email protected] with any questions, I really enjoy this EFI work. BTW I hope your wife has alot of patience, being color blind really complicates a job like this..lol

 

[TT670]

This is what you have to look forward to. HERE is what my 4 fuse/relay setup looks like, this removes all of the fuseable links and separates the relay functions. I have individual realys for the mass air and HEGO's, the Fuel pump, the EEC including fuel injectors and sensors and a relay for the ignition coil and TFI . Each is individually fused and simple to troubleshoot. Over next winter I think Im going to move it under the dash to clean up the engine compartment.

 

[68converted]

These are the EEC connector pins that ARE NOT used, depending on the car they came from they may or may not already have wires but it was easier to list them this way than to list the wires you keep. As numbered in the 60 pin eec connector. 2,5,8,10,11,23,24,27,28,31,32,33,34,35,38,39,41,44,51,53,54,55. Like I said some of these pins may already be empty. You dont need any TAB, TAD or EGR stuff(get an eliminator kit). Im very experienced in this stuff and am willing to offer any help you may want or need. I also suggest removing the factory fuseable links and using a small fuse bock, along with individual relays instead of fords 2 that cover everything... It makes troubleshooting a whole lot easier and also reduces each circuit to a max load of .75 amps. Grounds are VITALLY IMPORTANT, there are 2 eec grounds, one is the case ground thats right off the 60 pin connector that simply connects to a solid body or chassis ground and the other is the EEC ground (blk with white stripe)thats in the engine compartment and has what looks like an fuse connector near the end, this wire MUST be connected to the batterys negative terminal. In addition the engine must have a very good ground to the chassis( I use 2, front, 1 rear off the heads). Be sure to solder and shrink tube everything you splice. Feel free to contact me at [email protected] with any questions, I really enjoy this EFI work. BTW I hope your wife has alot of patience, being color blind really complicates a job like this..lol

That is so helpful! I am in the process of installing two fuse blocks, one inside and one in the engine bay- I got them off the 91 GT I got everything else from. I am putting everything on its own or general fuse. The engine bay block also contains all the relays for the car- fuel pump, electric fan etc. My father is an Electrical Engineer and is helping as much as he can, but the wife is the one who is piling in and out from under the dash to help. Your advice is great and I will email you for a few other questions. Thanks for the massive assist. I had half of it done so far, and just got overwhelmed.

 

[WORTH]

Hey TT , I like your idea of seperate relays for everything, although I'd leave them under the hood where they are easy to get at.

I'll bet your heater doesn't work good enough for NY

 

[68converted]

Hey TT , I like your idea of seperate relays for everything, although I'd leave them under the hood where they are easy to get at.

I am with you on that! It has been raining real hard the past few days... means days off for my company... means I have been working on the car. Got up at 6am to start on the positioning of the harness, wiring block and the inside fuse block. I think I have it all figured out now. Looking at a ton of pics with the 5.0 conversion, I have a real good feel for where everything should go.

 

[70XR7ConvertCat]

..is what my 4 fuse/relay setup looks like, this removes all of the fuseable links and separates the relay functions. I have individual relays for the mass air and HEGO's, the Fuel pump, the EEC including fuel injectors and sensors and a relay for the ignition coil and TFI . Each is individually fused and simple to troubleshoot. Over next winter I think Im going to move it under the dash to clean up the engine compartment.

Very clean looking. I like the multiple relays idea, but isn't it a bit of overkill? Does the injector circuit need one, for example?

Steve C.

 

[TT670]

Very clean looking. I like the multiple relays idea, but isn't it a bit of overkill? Does the injector circuit need one, for example?

Steve C.

The injector circuit doesnt have its own. I used a total of 4 relays for the fuel injection system. The EEC, injectors ,all sensors except maf and Hegos are all on the same relay along with the IAB solenoid. I then have another for the fuel pump, one for the TFI and Coil and one for the Hegos and Maf. I suppose it is overkill, I didnt do it so much for the current load but for the ease of finding trouble. My car is a Relay machine, Ive also got a 70 amp fan relay and three headlight relays.. the third headlight relay lets me run high and low beam at the same time, youd be amazed at how bright halogens are on a '65 when wired this way. Also the taillights are very bright too because youve taken all of the headlight load away from the headlight switch. Dim tailights are one of the common vintage mustang issues I was determined to eliminate.

 

[ashford]

id keep the egr(it helps gas milage) and chuck the thermactor and canister purge

 

[TT670]

id keep the egr(it helps gas milage) and chuck the thermactor and canister purge

Its very difficult to run the EGR when installing EFI in a 60's mustang. The thick EGR block causes interference between the air intake and shock tower, go back to the link to my relay pic and look how close mine is WITHOUT the EGR block.