5.0 Programer

Okay what about the 95' 5.0. I have one with a few bolt ons, and the timing was advanced by the previous owner. The car runs incredibly rich. Should i have it dyno tunned or would the Tweecer be a better use of my money.

How do you know it runs rich? Do you have a WB?

The 94-95's are load-based and the factory tune leaves a lot on the table.

As for what method to use, it depends upon the owner. If you are not going to make a lot of changes to the car and are not into spending some time learning to use an RT, a chip can be a good way to go.

If you plan on making changes and like to tinker, tuning yourself is a viable option. Figure on needing an RT, WB and laptop at a minimum.

Good luck.
 
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I think it runs rich because after parking it, the garage smells like i spilt a couple of gallons of fuel. That cannot be a good thing....unless all 5.0's are like that.

Thanks for the help. by the way
 
I think it runs rich because after parking it, the garage smells like i spilt a couple of gallons of fuel. That cannot be a good thing....unless all 5.0's are like that.

Thanks for the help. by the way

This is not a way of determining that the car is running rich. It indicates a fuel leak, EVAP leak (which is quite possible), an an O/R pipe, etc.
 
:eek: A tune on a 5.0 with a tuning interface is a waste :eek:

Gotta run up a RED FLAG on a blanket statement like that :eek:

If talking about WOT only ... MAYBE ... and I stress the word maybe :)

Most on these forums have Stangs that are STREET CARS :D
and
With a street car, WOT is a small amount of real world driving conditions ;)

You have VERY little control over spark and fuel :bang:
with dizzy twisting and changing fuel pressure :(

For the most part ... changes done with that method .......
Well ... they are a global kind of thing :Word:

You could very well make an improvement in one area of the tune
with mechanical adjustments ... but ... you could be hindering
yourself in other areas of the tune as well.

You just have ... next to no flexability ... with mechanical adjustments

Grady
 
Scott,
Welcome to :SNSign:

Here are some other thoughts...

If you are going to take on the task of tuning your own car, then start learning the software BEFORE you add boost to the equation. First, it will give you time to learn the software and the basics of tuning. Second, it will give you a chance to hammer out any tuning issues you may have, without having to deal with the boost.
In general you want to keep the tuning basic and controlled. Making several big changes at once is how you will get in trouble.

Here is something else to consider...
Each time you add an aftermarket part to the motor, the ecu gets a little farther from being 'correct'
That isn't to say that the motor won't run, but it won't drive like stock and make the full potential of power for the parts.

Each of the following add a certain amount of error to the AFR and Load calculations in the ecu...
'calibrated' MAF
larger injectors
cam
heads
intake
The factory A9* ecu can flex the AFR by +/-12.5%. If the AFR is still out of whack after that 12.5%, then out of whack it stays.
My point is that each part added from the above list takes you closer to being out of range of the adaptive ability of the ecu.


If chosen well, the above parts will *usually* get the motor to run fairly well.
This is not a given though... and you don't have to accept the drivability issues that most folks seem to think is just part of having a built motor.

Sorry for the longwinded post...
jason


What he said :rlaugh:

Good info is hard to come by :crazy:
and I see ....
Jason is still laying out such info ... even to this day :hail2:

I like the part about ... Well chosen parts

If it was a simple ... cookie cutter ... kind of thing :)

EVERYBODY would have ... max power ... AND ... no drivbility issues :banana:

Confucius Says :D

"A Stanger With The Most Options Is The Most Happy Stanger"
or
At Least ... He should have said it :Word:

When one has the ability to make adjustments ........
If the well chosen parts don't turn out to be all that ... well chosen :bang:

One has the opportunity to adjust :nice:
for the unexpected outcome ;)

Grady
 
holy smilies batman.


i agree with most of what 2000xp8, you really dont need any kind of "tuning" software on a mild N/A motor, it nice to have all of that adjustability but realistically you dont need it at all. once you get a good power tune on the car you should not have to change it.

do yourself a favor, save alot of money, and a lot of hassle, find a performance shop you can trust, bring the car to them, they will flash you a tune on a chip and it will cost you around $600 for the dyno time and the chip.
 
Hi everybody, I'm new here. I'm planning to put a b-cam, tubular intake, and mass/injector comobo on my 89 and that's my question, what kind of mass/injector I have to use and what kind of hp may I spect?? May I do something with the ecu? I forgot the equeal lenght headers.
Thanks in advance!!!
 
God bless Stangnet: I love the application of knowledge for quite contrasting situations making themselves USEFULLY into a discussion, and for that matter, with tasteful relevance. I myself am new to Mustangs, and was a Z car tuner before that (still am ;).) I'm in dire thirst of learning about the "EEC (ECU?)," among the other various parameters that are crucial to the experience. My Mustang has some interesting drivability issues, and I myself would love to resolve them. A digression that I will surely save for a rainy day ;)

Keep up to good things.

-Willens
 
Hey guys.
Im new here, an all you guys sound pretty professional.

I failed my smog test for my 1991 Mustang 5.0. My uncle put a chip in and its been running rich for 3yrs. an coated the catalytic converters with hydrocarbons, causing it to fail smog.

How would i go about to make the Air/Fuel Ratio lean?

I wanna make it rich again after i pass smog with new catalytic converters, but that leads to my next question.

Would it be street legal (or even smart) to put in exhaust headers that have no catalytic converters for a daily driver?

I have a straight through exhaust after the catalytic converters that i replace with the stock exhaust system before i take the smog test. So that led me to think if i can run the car without catalitic converters/mufflers...

Any words of advice is greatly appreciated.

APOC543
 
I failed my smog test for my 1991 Mustang 5.0. My uncle put a chip in and its been running rich for 3yrs. an coated the catalytic converters with hydrocarbons, causing it to fail smog.
Step one is to let us know what chip you currently have. You can't get anywhere until you figure out where you are first...

Pull the ecu from the passenger kickpanel and see what part numbers/etc. you can find.
Do you have the software/hardware to make tune changes to the chip?
Do you have a wideband O2 sensor?
What are ALL the modifications you have made to the car/engine?


One simple option for you might be to install the stock exhaust and remove the chip (assuming the car will run without the chip...).

jason
 
I guess i'm kinda bringing this thread back from the dead but so be it. So I'm still up in the air about the tuning decision. I intend to continue driving and racing mustangs and would love to invest in the equipment to tune my cars on my own, but that being said I don't have a clue where to start learning about the ecu to program it. Can anyone shed some light on that? (I know a lil off topic)

And just to edit what I said.... I'm talking about reading material like books and things, though after doing some more searching I've found a few sites with some good info and hey I just started looking through this section :bang: yea I didn't realize I made it into the tune section... anyway if there's any books with a complete basics to tuning that'd be nice.
 
anyway if there's any books with a complete basics to tuning that'd be nice.
Not that I've ever found...

Most of the good info is on the net, and is specific to the ecu you are tuning. Info on the LA3 may not be related/helpfull for the A9L...

Basically, you just have to read the forums, and ask specific questions.
If you are working with a A9L/A9P/X3Z/etc. then getting a pdf version of the GUFB is a good idea as well.

The Probst book on Fox efi is a decent book, but it only covers the very basics of how the stock setup works. You won't find any tuning info in it...


jason