5.0 rebuild and mods_suggestions...

89OctaneStang · Nov 19, 2007

Based on everyone's personal experiences, I am taking into consideration everyones past experiences on what worked and what didn't. I am picking up a 5.0 engine this week from "Blood Enterprise" that came out of my boss's '94 GT. My plan for the engine is to make it a really strong respectable street car that can be fun on the track without looking like a turtle compared to the other CCCA members. I'm sure there have been several attempts from others on here that have learned what not to put on and what works best with different combinations. I would like to see the car in the low 12's. ANY IDEAS?

Thanks,
Brian

352Ford2 · Nov 20, 2007

Budget?

Low 12’s NA, or with a power adder?

If you are going to use this engine for a base, you first need to do a tear down and inspect. The main goal of the teardown is to see if you can re-ring and re-bearing it. If you have to end up having to do a fair amount of machine work to the thing (ie it has too much bore wear), I might find a different block so you have a better base to start off of, because you are going to have a bunch of cash into this thing in machine work alone.

Stangler · Nov 20, 2007

Just bolt on a turbo and have fun with it.

Nate

Launchpad · Nov 20, 2007

AFR heads, Holley intake, and a F cam or custom.... Best NA combo I've seen. I've thought about ditching the blower and doing that myself actually-

Good luck.

94gsl5.0 · Nov 20, 2007

I agree with stangler...

Boost it... A used Supercharger or DIY turbo will give it some very good bang for buck.

TheRedBlur · Nov 21, 2007

Blood is really expensive. You wanna run 12's and they'll tell you that you need a new timing cover and hi-miller hoses first.

89OctaneStang · Nov 30, 2007

Picked up the engine a few days ago and brought it home. Picking up an engine stand from a friend that has a few extras laying around. Just looking it over, from what I see it looks fairly good as it sits. Nothing obvious sticks out that could be a potential problem. Original owner (my boss from work) says that it has about 100k miles on it mostly long highway drives from post to his hometown. Nothing special done to it (still all stock ie: cam, heads, bore, etc...) Water pump is new and has MAC short tube headers.

THE BRAINSTORMING BEGINS........
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89OctaneStang · Nov 30, 2007

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89OctaneStang · Nov 30, 2007

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Well... First thing that I am doing is taking it to be steam cleaned so I can repaint it and to have a good clean engine to start the work on.

How much bore can I get before I start to weaken the engine? It will still be a nitrous fed engine so I don't want to weaken it by any means. Suggestions????

Should I keep the original heads and have John put a good port on them or go with an after market head? Suggestions???

Pistons, rods, cam...

stock50LX · Nov 30, 2007

Low 12's will cost much more than high 12's. The best intake is the Holley. The best heads are probably AFR's but you don't need them to run 12's. I ran 12's with an Explorer intake and GT40 P heads (home ported) with shorty headers and 3.55's using a stock cam. That combo was the best bang for the buck I've built. It was based on a blown Explorer engine I bought for $250.

If you want mid 12's with reliability and decent mileage: aluminium heads, Holley intake, cam, 24 pound injectors with matching MAM and 3.73 gears. I think shorty headers will be okay. With the long runner intake, the motor is going to be based on low rpm torque. You need to make all the needed power before 5800 rpm. A big cam would be pointless. Edelbrock and Trickflow both make kits for about 2K that would get you to the mid 12's or so.

89OctaneStang · Nov 30, 2007

I figured if I can get it into the 12's, and choose to run faster I can always spray the nitrous. So NA 12's is my goal.

89OctaneStang · Nov 30, 2007

Also, take into consideration its an Automatic Trany... If I remember right, yours is manual....

89OctaneStang · Nov 30, 2007

When you say kits... What type of kit are you referring to? Sorry for all the rookie questions.

Brian

stock50LX · Nov 30, 2007

89OctaneStang said:
Also, take into consideration its an Automatic Trany... If I remember right, yours is manual....

I forgot. Mine was a 5spd, but I was referring to an EFI car I owned, not the black one.

stock50LX · Nov 30, 2007

89OctaneStang said:
When you say kits... What type of kit are you referring to? Sorry for all the rookie questions.

Brian

It's a top end kit. Edelbrock makes one too.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+325386&D=325386

I think you could get better value buying the individual pieces, though. You would need to spend some money on that AOD to get it to hold the gear longer and shorten the shifts. You also need a higher stall converter.

Stangler · Nov 30, 2007

Turbo it and you'll run 12's on a bad day, with the stock stuff it should go mid 11's all day long.... for the same cost as heads, cam intake.....

Nate

stock50LX · Nov 30, 2007

Stangler said:
Turbo it and you'll run 12's on a bad day, with the stock stuff it should go mid 11's all day long.... for the same cost as heads, cam intake.....

Nate

Could you link to an available kit?

Summit has superchargers, but I don't think they'll get you into the 11's without significant additional mods.

time only · Nov 30, 2007

There is a big gap from high 12's to a 11's pass in the 1/4 mile,took me years to get my old car into the 11's. We all read about the lucky few that could throw tons of money into the car right then and now to get that 400rwhp from their combo.
It is so much more harder with a AOD car,as horsepower goes up,tranny life goes down real fast,I think I had to rebuild the tranny 5-6 time over the years . You will need no less then 3:55 gear and good drag type tires to get the power down,high stall converter and aftermarket valve body is just round the corner.

I remember those days with the 13 second run at 117mph. lol

89OctaneStang · Nov 30, 2007

Well, I've taken off the water pump, timing chain cover, timing gear set, headers, oil pan, engine mounts, and oil pump.... Looking to take the cam out.. Do I need to pull the valves, lifters and rods off before the cam or can I go ahead and pull the cam out next then move back to the top? It doesn't say either way in the chiltons... lol.. YES, I said it, I'm rebuilding an engine using a chiltons with absolutely NO experience.... Wish Me Luck

TheRedBlur · Dec 1, 2007

89OctaneStang said:
Well, I've taken off the water pump, timing chain cover, timing gear set, headers, oil pan, engine mounts, and oil pump.... Looking to take the cam out.. Do I need to pull the valves, lifters and rods off before the cam or can I go ahead and pull the cam out next then move back to the top? It doesn't say either way in the chiltons... lol.. YES, I said it, I'm rebuilding an engine using a chiltons with absolutely NO experience.... Wish Me Luck

The lifters push against the cam. At BTC there is usually about 120lbs pressure. What you do on a stock engine is to loosen the rockers and rotate them so you can pull the pushrods or remove the rockers entirely. Either way, the lifters have to be pulled out of the way of the cam lobes so's you can remove them. If you're gonna pull the cam, you might as well spend the $250 for one that will gain you some good power and acceleration. The valves can stay, make sure that your new cam won't break the stock springs, if it has more lift than the springs can compress, then you have bent pushrods, if the springs don't have enough rate at the nose, you run into valve float at a premature RPM. There are a lot of ways to build a motor, its all based on your budget and where you want to start. If you want a good powerband, start with some good heads, then an intake, maybe some tranny mods, then gears, then a TB/injectors/MAF a tune of course.. or you could shelf the stang then choose a weight and build it around a cam/powerband.

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