5.0 rebuild and mods_suggestions...

Well, I've taken off the water pump, timing chain cover, timing gear set, headers, oil pan, engine mounts, and oil pump.... Looking to take the cam out.. Do I need to pull the valves, lifters and rods off before the cam or can I go ahead and pull the cam out next then move back to the top? It doesn't say either way in the chiltons... lol.. YES, I said it, I'm rebuilding an engine using a chiltons with absolutely NO experience.... Wish Me Luck :rolleyes:

'89, you can come-by and get a quick reference lesson. I have engines on stands now to show you what you're up against. At the end of the day, it's very simple, you just need to build one -once or twice. Get an all thread or long bolt from the parts store to pull the cam out. Like Blur wrote above, the lifters must come out. Take off the spider hold down, remove the dog bones that keep the lifters aligned and pull the 16 lifters out and put them in oil. Be careful when you pull the cam out. Don't knock the cam into the cam bearings.
 
There is a big gap from high 12's to a 11's pass in the 1/4 mile,took me years to get my old car into the 11's. We all read about the lucky few that could throw tons of money into the car right then and now to get that 400rwhp from their combo.
It is so much more harder with a AOD car,as horsepower goes up,tranny life goes down real fast,I think I had to rebuild the tranny 5-6 time over the years . You will need no less then 3:55 gear and good drag type tires to get the power down,high stall converter and aftermarket valve body is just round the corner.

I remember those days with the 13 second run at 117mph. lol

I had you in mind when I wrote the prior post, Kin. I know your old car ran 11's but you had aluminium heads, etc.
 
With an AOD in use, you should consider a stroker kit (at least a 331) and some compression. With those additions, you'd have more torque to pull the automatic. Al has done a superior job getting his combo to run so well. He's a great source of information.

If you are going to stay with this hobby, you might be money ahead to build a Windsor (351 based engine) ... just a thought. They are much stronger blocks; they fit in the engine compartment with ease.
 
Well I like mine, it works well. Under $2000 for completed motor.
But I had the heads and intake so that saved on the final cost.

If i were to do another 89 AOD car (like yours) I would not go nuts with the motor because of the damn emissions testing.
I would pick up 351w ($75 pick a part) freshen it up go with a mild hyd roller put a good stall converter behind it and dump the stock TB,MAf and top end and have john do some portwork on the heads, unless there was money in the budget for new or used aftermarket heads.

That would get me to low 13`s high 12`s in an AOD car, and would pass emissions.
I know you now have two 302`s to work with and you want to run 12`s so I think the single best buy would be a good converter ($500+) and would budget everything around that starting with TB,MAf and then intake and not go wild on the motor rebuld.
 
Well I like mine, it works well. Under $2000 for completed motor.
But I had the heads and intake so that saved on the final cost.

If i were to do another 89 AOD car (like yours) I would not go nuts with the motor because of the damn emissions testing.
I would pick up 351w ($75 pick a part) freshen it up go with a mild hyd roller put a good stall converter behind it and dump the stock TB,MAf and top end and have john do some portwork on the heads, unless there was money in the budget for new or used aftermarket heads.

That would get me to low 13`s high 12`s in an AOD car, and would pass emissions.
I know you now have two 302`s to work with and you want to run 12`s so I think the single best buy would be a good converter ($500+) and would budget everything around that starting with TB,MAf and then intake and not go wild on the motor rebuld.

We are on the same page, Al. My 408 cost 2K, too. As I wrote earlier, he'd be money ahead at the end of the day to switch to a 351 based engine now, before he buys the expensive parts: intake, headers, etc. I ran 11's with a low compression (stock cast pistons) 351W and a 5sp. He should easily run high 12's with an AOD. He's need to find some P heads, C6oe 289 heads or C90E casting, though (I'd need a decent starting point). Then he'd be able to step up to a stroker motor when the funds were available.
 
Yeah, I'm working with a little over 2k. Could be more like 3k if I continue to work like I have been at TG hospital. LOTS of Back Breaking hours for a couple of dollars... But anyways, the 331 stroker kits are looking to be around $1,300. I was thinking that if I want to go that way and you think its feasable on 3k +'ish then I'll keep picking up extra hours because I want it to be worth it in the end. But I was thinking 331 stroker, 3200+ stall, AOD upgrade, heads (used set), intake, MAF, and TB... But after looking at all the cost for all that, I'm afraid its going to be more than 3k. So with out adding the stroker kit, I atleast need to add in an E or F cam, don't you think?
 
Yeah, I'm working with a little over 2k. Could be more like 3k if I continue to work like I have been at TG hospital. LOTS of Back Breaking hours for a couple of dollars... But anyways, the 331 stroker kits are looking to be around $1,300. I was thinking that if I want to go that way and you think its feasable on 3k +'ish then I'll keep picking up extra hours because I want it to be worth it in the end. But I was thinking 331 stroker, 3200+ stall, AOD upgrade, heads (used set), intake, MAF, and TB... But after looking at all the cost for all that, I'm afraid its going to be more than 3k. So with out adding the stroker kit, I atleast need to add in an E or F cam, don't you think?


Delta can grind whatever you want for about $100., so, yes, a cam is good bang for the buck.
 
Yeah, I'm working with a little over 2k. Could be more like 3k if I continue to work like I have been at TG hospital. LOTS of Back Breaking hours for a couple of dollars... But anyways, the 331 stroker kits are looking to be around $1,300. I was thinking that if I want to go that way and you think its feasable on 3k +'ish then I'll keep picking up extra hours because I want it to be worth it in the end. But I was thinking 331 stroker, 3200+ stall, AOD upgrade, heads (used set), intake, MAF, and TB... But after looking at all the cost for all that, I'm afraid its going to be more than 3k. So with out adding the stroker kit, I atleast need to add in an E or F cam, don't you think?


Delta can grind whatever you want for about $100., so, yes, a cam is good bang for the buck. I think you could buy a rebult 351W shortblock for about 1k. You'd need an aftermarket flexplate to mate the 28 oz imbalance Windsor to your AOD ( $120) but after that you'd need the same things you're already planning to buy for the 5.0: intake, headers, MAF, injectors.
 
Yes a cam would be positive, but like john said delta is a good choice to help keep the total cost down, the cam in my 331 is from delta.
They ground pretty much what I wanted (under .500 lift)
Also watch ebay for things like TB and MAF and pick one up cheap, don`t spend big money on that stuff.
 
89OctaneStang,

I am guessing this is the same guy I met on Fort Lewis a couple months ago? Just an FYI, I'm currently in Korea atm, but will be back come end of June. When I get back I will be switching some things off my current combo to go a little bigger. So I will be getting rid of my upper/lower Trickflow R Intake and my AFR 185 heads, Im sure I can make you a deal on the combo for around $1100. But again this will not be till middle/end of June, not sure when you needed this engine completed:shrug:

Will
 
Yes a cam would be positive, but like john said delta is a good choice to help keep the total cost down, the cam in my 331 is from delta.
They ground pretty much what I wanted (under .500 lift)

I have only had one cam ever ground by Delta Camshaft so my sample size was basically nil, but I was not too impressed. First they had to grind it twice, and even when they did claim to get it right, it didn’t degree in very well at all. It needed to be advanced 5 degrees, was low on lift, and had quite a few other things that were “off”.

A lot of guys on here seem to have good luck with them, so I might be the exception, but between that and some of the things the counter guy was telling me, I don’t think I am going to have them do any more work for me.
 
89OctaneStang,

I am guessing this is the same guy I met on Fort Lewis a couple months ago? Just an FYI, I'm currently in Korea atm, but will be back come end of June. When I get back I will be switching some things off my current combo to go a little bigger. So I will be getting rid of my upper/lower Trickflow R Intake and my AFR 185 heads, Im sure I can make you a deal on the combo for around $1100. But again this will not be till middle/end of June, not sure when you needed this engine completed:shrug:

Will

You guessed right! Well, when I picked up this engine the original plan was to make it a monster through out the next year and into next winter installing it just before 09's race season. But I would like to get it in sometime this year and as I look into getting it done, I want it sooner than later... There is really no rush on it so if I were to come across a really good deal that you can't pass up, then I would be an idiot not to partake in the offer. Good to see you on here though. Whatcha working on in Korea? I thought you were a civilian employee, or was I mistaken?
 
Those heads and intake would be a good deal for someone, but not a street driven under 6000 rpm AOD car. It would kill you off the line, for the intake is 2500 to 7200 rpm. To use it would require a power adder or a very large non emissions cam.