Either use a pair of driver's side Ranger axles (7.5 OR 8.8) or a pair of passenger's side Aerostar axles..same deal. Drums are the same, too. On eBay, a guy is selling the rotors for the swap, charges around $70. Direct swap..works perfectly on my car. I have 18x9s (235s) with a bit of rubbing at full lock. Ford Racing also sells these rotors, but at a higher price. Part number M-1102-C - check it in a Ford Racing catalog. Here's a link to the auction that I won Rotors
Total cost for my project was $20 for drums, $69 for axles and $72 for rotors. That's a total of $161, and you get the same thing as the 5.0 Resto kit. It's the cheapest and easiest way to do the swap.
Total cost for my project was $20 for drums, $69 for axles and $72 for rotors. That's a total of $161, and you get the same thing as the 5.0 Resto kit. It's the cheapest and easiest way to do the swap.
RS200 said:
NO NO NO!! Some incorrect and incomplete info here.
First, The Ranger Axles - Yes, it is the drivers side you need. And you do need 2 of them. No, you can't get axles from any 7.5" or 8.8" axle. You can only use axles from a I4 or V6 Ranger with a 7.5" rear axle. All 8.8" Ranger rear axles assemblies have 31 spline differentials and axle shafts. So if you want to run 8.8" Ranger axles you need to find 2 8.8" axle assemblies take the two right axles from it and hopefully one of the differentials is a trac-lok.
Second, The Aerostar Axles - Everything that applies to the Ranger that I said above applies to the Aerostar too. The only difference is, like you said, you need the passenger side axles.
Third, Drums - Any 7.5" Ranger rear axle 9" drum is good. The 8.8" Ranger and both the 7.5" & 8.8" Aerostar drums are 10" and are too big to just bolt on. You can use the 10" setup if you get the backing plate and basically swap the entire 10" rear drum setup.
OK after reading all of this,,, im kinda confused.. I want to do the 5 lug swap too... Im buying a 4 banger and doing a 5.0 swap, and im starting at the rear.. For starters i was going to try to find a rear from a 94-04, this way the rear is already a 5 lug and its disk. Is there a specific year i should look for and are all the rears (between 6's and the 8cyl's) the same? meaning to they all have ford trac-loc rears or are the 6 banger cars open diffs???
Second should i use the spindles and rotors out of the 94-95 cars or the 96-04 cars? i plan on running a bullitt or stock style gt 5 spoke rim from the 99-00 gt's. in this case which setup in the front (94-95 or the 96-04) should i run where i wont have rim backspacing ussues????
Second should i use the spindles and rotors out of the 94-95 cars or the 96-04 cars? i plan on running a bullitt or stock style gt 5 spoke rim from the 99-00 gt's. in this case which setup in the front (94-95 or the 96-04) should i run where i wont have rim backspacing ussues????
1986Stang said:
Ok here's some info.
The V6 mustangs have a 7.5 rear end, the V8's have an 8.8. You can buy a whole rear, but it's pretty unnecessary. Doing the rears are easy.
If you want to run the wheels you are talking about. You want the 94-95 spindles. I run 96-98 spindles, but I notice really no difference. The 96-98 push the tires out a tad bit, not sure on the numbers. 99+ stuff is not what you want. The only 99 stuff you want are the front calipers unless you are going with front cobra stuff. With 94-98 spindles you can run any wheel found on 94+ mustangs. 9" wide wheels may have rubbing issues, but they fit nonetheless.
Ok so let me just make sure I have this straight... 94 to 95 spindles, 96+ rotors and calipers for better braking. Is this correct? What about the rear? I wand disk back there. Will the whole rear from a newer model work or just the parts? Would prefer rear vented like the 93 cobra. Also what about the master and proportioning valve?
The rotors from 94-04 are the same. The calipers from 94-98 are a single piston steel caliper. The calipers from 99-04 use a dual piston aluminum caliper. If you use a 94-95 spindle, and would like to use a 99-04 caliper, you will have to grind the spindle a little bit for clearance. If you use a 96-98 spindle and want to use 99-04 calipers you do not have to do any grinding. Like I mentioned, the 96-98 spindles move the front wheels out a tiny bit. Either way, if you are not going to upgrade to the 13” Cobra brakes, use a 99-04 caliper. Much better than the 94-98 fronts.
For the rear. If you have a V6, 7.5. rear, find a rear that came out of a V8. The V8 rears are 8.8's much stronger. If you do not want to grab the whole housing, find 94-98 SN95 axles, does not matter which kind, the rotors, calipers, dust shield and I think it's called the anti moan bracket? You will need to have new brake lines bend for the rears too which plug into the top of the diff if I remember correctly. While you are at it, buy new wheel bearings and axle seals, they are cheap. Then buy diff fluid and friction modifier, and either a diff gasket or black RTV to seal the rear shut. I did my conversion over 2 years ago, so it is a bit foggy in what else you need.
Guys, don't forget that if you use calipers from the 96 up cars you will have to upgrade the fox master cylinder and install an adjustable proportioning valve. I've got the single piston sn95 calipers on my five lug conversion with my old fox MC and my braking is no better than it was before. If I got bigger calipers, it would be even worse than it is now. You have to upgrade the MC, or your pedal will be mush. The '93 cobra MC seems to be the MC of choice for most fox brake upgrades. Matt's site is pretty useful, but don't bother emailing him any questions. He's no help.
Well, maybe it’s mush because your stock master cylinder is not meant for rear discs? The brake booster might also be the culprit. An adjustable proportioning valve should be used anyways with a SN95 conversion with a SN95 MC. I used a MC out of a 85 Lincoln Towncar and my brakes work fine. I also have the adj pro por valve as well.
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