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5 lug swap experts....Master cylinder Q????

  • Thread starter Thread starter EPIK
  • Start date Start date Nov 11, 2008
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magnj

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May 30, 2007
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Nov 14, 2008
#21
  • Nov 14, 2008
  • #21
Also thinking of doing springs at the same time because I know it's gonna look like a monster truck and i don't want to have to pull it apart twice. Looking to do autoX and occasional dd duty...any suggestions?
 

snakebite01

New Member
Oct 22, 2008
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new jersey but not for long
Nov 14, 2008
#22
  • Nov 14, 2008
  • #22
magnj said:
When I first researched this upgrade last year I knew I'd have to do the MC, but I totally forgot when I started buying parts last week.

Could I do the proportioning valve only or would that be stupid?
Click to expand...

you could but that's wouldn't be the best thing to do.. if you CAN AFFORD to the mc/pv than do it.. if not than just do the pv but when you get the money than do the mc..

magnj said:
Also thinking of doing springs at the same time because I know it's gonna look like a monster truck and i don't want to have to pull it apart twice. Looking to do autoX and occasional dd duty...any suggestions?
Click to expand...

my plan with my car is to do autoX as well. my plan is to put a irs setup in my car with a full maximum motorsports coil over setup... right now on my car i have eibach sportline springs and i absolutely love them.. my car is a dd and i don't have any problems with the eibachs.. they lower are cars perfectly!!! i have had H & R super sports, eibach pro kit, and eibach sportlines and they are my absolute favorite.. i also have maximum motorsports caster camber plates and monroe sensa trac struts...

 

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EPIK

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Jul 3, 2004
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Nov 14, 2008
#23
  • Nov 14, 2008
  • #23
I hear u guys about doing things right the 1st time...Thats almost always my view on my projects, but being that this 5 lug swap thing is adding up pretty fast, & with Xmas right around the corner, i gotta stop buying stuff for myself & think of others for a change...View attachment 290940View attachment 290942View attachment 290944

Since it wont hurt anything to leave out the MC/ PV/Booster swap, I will just upgrade after Xmas if I dont like the way the brakes feel, unless I win the lottery within the next few weeks... Besides, I still need to buy an install kit for my 3.73's, & balljoints 1st...
 

magnj

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May 30, 2007
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Nov 15, 2008
#24
  • Nov 15, 2008
  • #24
snakebite01 said:
you could but that's wouldn't be the best thing to do.. if you CAN AFFORD to the mc/pv than do it.. if not than just do the pv but when you get the money than do the mc..



my plan with my car is to do autoX as well. my plan is to put a irs setup in my car with a full maximum motorsports coil over setup... right now on my car i have eibach sportline springs and i absolutely love them.. my car is a dd and i don't have any problems with the eibachs.. they lower are cars perfectly!!! i have had H & R super sports, eibach pro kit, and eibach sportlines and they are my absolute favorite.. i also have maximum motorsports caster camber plates and monroe sensa trac struts...
Click to expand...

Nice ride, sounds like you have a lot of work ahead of you! Now I did a little reading...I want progressive I think. My ride is pretty stiff as it is, I don't really want it getting any worse, you know how bad the roads are here .

EPIK said:
I hear u guys about doing things right the 1st time...Thats almost always my view on my projects, but being that this 5 lug swap thing is adding up pretty fast, & with Xmas right around the corner, i gotta stop buying stuff for myself & think of others for a change...
Click to expand...

I feel that too, I don't think it will be a huge deal if I do it in two steps anyway...it's almost two separate projects to begin with.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
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Nov 15, 2008
#25
  • Nov 15, 2008
  • #25
These are brakes we are talking about. Next time you are blasting down the road at 90MPH, think to yourself "Gee, i'm glad i saved myself $50 and didn't swap out the MC"


 

Nova

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Aug 10, 2006
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Nov 15, 2008
#26
  • Nov 15, 2008
  • #26
you dont NEED the mc/booster. but it would be nice to have. especially if you go to rear disk later. because trust me, youll be tired of seeing those huge front brakes and the tiny rear drums.

ide go with the 93 cobra mc/booster, its a little easier to install, but still not a picnic. if you like a soft pedal, go with the 94/95 stuff.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,944
224
Massachusetts
Nov 15, 2008
#27
  • Nov 15, 2008
  • #27
Nova said:
youll be tired of seeing those huge front brakes and the tiny rear drums.
Click to expand...


+ 10000000




Drums brakes are so 1985
 

magnj

New Member
May 30, 2007
139
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Nov 15, 2008
#28
  • Nov 15, 2008
  • #28
I'm already tired of seeing the drums and I can't even see the front brakes with the 10 holes lol...
 

FoxBodyGT

New Member
Dec 18, 2002
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Austintown, Ohio 44515
Nov 16, 2008
#29
  • Nov 16, 2008
  • #29
Off topic a little, but does classic tube still carry the hardline that runs along the axle or is it even necessary?
 

white 89 GT

Member
Apr 3, 2003
281
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Tacoma
Nov 16, 2008
#30
  • Nov 16, 2008
  • #30
There is some info at this site 87-93 Mustang 5.0 Brake upgrade pages. Improve your 60-0 times!
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
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119
Motor City
Nov 16, 2008
#31
  • Nov 16, 2008
  • #31
94-95 Mustang GT and Cobra brake boosters are the same.
94-95 Mustang GT and Cobra master cylinders are different, so you need a Cobra M/C.

There is nothing wrong with running the spacers on top of the spindles to space the castle nut upward so the cotter pin is aligned. BUT...if you're car has 172K, replace them. Buy the 94-95 call joints. They press in the FOX LCA's the exact same way. Might as well do new tie rods too while it's apart. Don't want a tie rod breaking sending you into the wall. Also, go with all MOOG parts. They are tight parts and last a long time.
 

EPIK

Member
Jul 3, 2004
796
1
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LEFT COAST
Nov 16, 2008
#32
  • Nov 16, 2008
  • #32
Mustang5L5 said:
+ 10000000




Drums brakes are so 1985
Click to expand...

At this point, I could care less what the drum brakes look like in the rear, i just want to get the 5 lug done.... If u guys dont want to se my 1985 drum brakes, u can gladly donate to the cost of the MC/Booster/PV & rear disk setup to the"Epik 5 lug swap fund"...

SVT32VDOHC said:
94-95 Mustang GT and Cobra brake boosters are the same.
94-95 Mustang GT and Cobra master cylinders are different, so you need a Cobra M/C.

There is nothing wrong with running the spacers on top of the spindles to space the castle nut upward so the cotter pin is aligned. BUT...if you're car has 172K, replace them. Buy the 94-95 call joints. They press in the FOX LCA's the exact same way. Might as well do new tie rods too while it's apart. Don't want a tie rod breaking sending you into the wall. Also, go with all MOOG parts. They are tight parts and last a long time.
Click to expand...

So I HAVE to get the 94/95 Cobra only MC/ booster, not the regular 94/95 Mustang MC/Booster???

How much better are the Moog parts over auto zone brands? I can get a deal at auto zone on the duralast ball joints...
 
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