500hp 66 coupe

Packaging is the problem. It is not easy to fit a turbo or a blower in the engine bay, but with enough money, all things are possible. With a classic you don't get high HP bolt-ons like a fox body, but all the same combos work, and all the drivetrain is too weak stock to support it.
 
Dart and World Products are producing brand new Windsor blocks that can be bored and stroked to 440 cubic inches. That much displacement would support the biggest Windsor heads available and a big cam too. 500 hp would be easy.

The other method would be to replace the front suspension with a Global West coil over setup, which would enable you to notch the shock towers to clear a 385 series engine. The extra expense of the suspension work would be offset by the cheap prices for '70's 460's at the junkyards, which can be built up to 500 hp fairly cheaply.

Of course, to use 500 hp and the torque that goes along with it, you'd need a built automatic or a TKO 600, a 9" and 31-spline axles, Slide-A-Links or Cal Tracs, and some frame connectors. You'd also be a lot better off with more tire than you can fit in a '66 without narrowing the axle and relocating the springs, unless tire smoke is what you're really after.
 
You can also do it with a supercharger. There is really a lot of room in front of the SBF for a supercharger. You will need 600 at the flywheel, if you run a TKO in order to see 500 at the wheels. To do that you need 400fwhp out of a low-compression engine and then boost it 7-8psi (half an atmosphere). If you do it with FI, you can have the added safety margin of anti-knock sensors and run pump gas. A 347 can do it, or a 351-based motor of many configurations. Just hit 400fwhp at about 8.5:1 compression and boost it.

Yes, you can also did with NO.
 
I can tell you from experience, it's way more than these early unibody's can deal with.

The mods above play a big roll but if you actually do the mods to get a big enough tire to hook it, you're going to stress the heck out of the body. So then you're lookin at caging the car, now you're past practicality and into a race car.

If you don't set the car to hook it, you're gonna stand on it in 2nd or 3rd gear, spin the tires, and possibly wreck the car.

I've got 457 on the ground, easy for me to step it up over five, but iit's already extremely fast.

400rwhp on these cars is plenty and you'll have a tough time hookin that!
 
Here is what 400 RWHP looks like after bad weather and 70 MPH.

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I've been using these 3 questions a lot in the last week....

1. What is the budget?
2. What is the use for the car? Street, Track, Both?
3. Aside from puffing up your chest and saying "I have 500 RWHP", what is the actually performance goal you want to meet?
 

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dodgestang said:
Here is what 400 RWHP looks like after bad weather and 70 MPH.

acident4.webp

acident1.webp


I've been using these 3 questions a lot in the last week....

1. What is the budget?
2. What is the use for the car? Street, Track, Both?
3. Aside from puffing up your chest and saying "I have 500 RWHP", what is the actually performance goal you want to meet?

you don't need 400 rwhp to do that kinda damage......:nono: .....70 mph, wet roads, especially newly wetted, the inherant handling (or lack therof) of the old technology canl get anybody there............don't beat yourself up

well maybe just a little for doing 70 in bad weather

glad your OK............
 

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Dodgestang,
I am so sorry to see what happened to your car.

I have to agree with most of the posts in this thread regarding
how much power does one of our cars need to be exciting,streetable and yet not tear the bejesus out of the car.
IMHO I believe that with 300+RWHP,the right gearing and a manual transmission in these light cars it is a blast to drive. Once you exceed 400RWHP you are probably doing so to compensate for some other shortcoming:jester:
Scott
 
Dodgestang wrecked the car sometime back. It's been fixed for awhile.

My .02? That much hp out of a street car is only not usable but, a little unsafe. One mistake with the throttle and street tires turn into goo.

That much hp in a full on race car OK. Build the snot out of it. But as said before, full cage, suspention, tranny, rearend, brakes, driveshaft and some wheel tubs not to mention some MAJOR frame stiffening are going to need to happen.
 
The accident was back in Feb. do a search or go to my site...you can read all the details....driving under tractor trailers is fun.

All fixed...just ran 12.5s at the track with it. Just putting it up as an example....you spend $$$ on power, and you spend big money on suspension, and brakes, and wide tires, and then you might get a little overconfident about the car....add a little weather.....

I know alot of what is driving numbers anymore is the HP numbers not only coming out of manufactures...LIke 300 this, 400 that....but then the aftermarket crowd adding up their mods and spitting out numbers.

Any car with 400 (not even 500) RWHP even a brand new one presents a HUGE amount of power that you are lucky if you can even use 50%-75% of within the street environment.

Just curious; Have you (originally poster) ever driven a car that put down even 300 RWHP on a dyno?
 
dodgestang said:
Just curious; Have you (originally poster) ever driven a car that put down even 300 RWHP on a dyno?

Your question reminds me of the fact that, in their "factory team" Trans Am hey day these old heaps only generated about 450 hp at the flywheel; even at that performance level the Trans Am was disinvited from the Daytona and Sebring endurance races for fear a production-based Mustang or Cougar might finish ahead of the exotic European sports prototypes.