68 coupe rear drop
- Thread starter Butchd88
- Start date
C.R.M.
Member
On the face of it you'd get almost precisely a 1/4" drop. But let's start at the beginning. Were the 5 leafs your choice? Whose are they, what brand and rate? If not sure just say so. If you post some close up pics of the rebound clips, top and bottom, and the leaf ends too, I may recognize what they are. The only maker of very close to original factory springs is Eaton Detroit, right down to the type of spring steel used, and no originals were 5 leaf. A side view pic of your car would be helpful too. We can discuss spring rates later, but respond to the above and we'll go from there. Simply installing lowering blocks (the shallower the better) can solve a visual ride height issue, but they aren't recommended. You want the springs as close to the axle housing as practicable, lowering blocks move them further away.
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C.R.M.
Member
It's your car and your choice. I had stated that lowering blocks are not recommended. Here's what Mike Eaton of Eaton Detroit Spring has to say about them: "The leading cause of handling problems is the use of blocks, whether it's for raising or lowering. You're increasing the angle to the fulcrum point. (It's) physics. The more you move the spring away from the centerline of the axle the more leverage you create and the more axle windup you get, and the more squirrelly the car becomes". I'm not saying you can't get away with using them, many folk do, and vendors have sold who knows how many of them over the years. Blocks are an easy way out and avoid the trouble of better solutions, that's all.
I don't believe I'm coming out of left field here. I did in-depth research into leaf springs for classic mustangs a few years ago, who makes 'em, the differing steel grades and designs, the whole ball of wax. It turned out to be a fascinating subject. If I had to sum it up in one sentence it would be "Generally speaking you get what you pay for".
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