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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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65 Mustang Subframe Connectors

  • Thread starter Thread starter JeffMustang65
  • Start date Start date Aug 15, 2012
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horseballz

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2009
824
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49
Las Vegas, NV
Aug 16, 2012
#21
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #21
One place that is often overlooked/neglected is the lower side of the front suspension. One of these:

http://www.deltabaymustang.com/images/hpcatimgs/db063.gif

or something similar, is an awesome addition that ties the lower control arms together. Add this to sub-frame connectors, Shelby drop, good export brace, monte-carlo bar and your chassis and you should be quite happy for not a big $$$ outlay! Likely around $200 +/-, especially if you make your own sub-frame connectors as per dazecars. All other steering and suspension components need to be in good shape, obviously.
Gene
 

SoCalCruising

Founding Member
Jul 25, 2000
2,437
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47
SoCal
Aug 16, 2012
#22
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #22
Maybe I'm the only one who would make a pattern to cut by.
Not as gifted as some, I guess.
 
J

j69302

Active Member
Jan 31, 2006
325
1
29
Aug 16, 2012
#23
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #23
In my opinion, Maier Racing has the best subframe connectors. They connect each side at 4 places instead of 2. With these connectors, I can place a jack under the front frame rail, just behind the wheel, and lift the whole side of the car up. Check out the pics. Im sure other connectors can do similar things, but i was really amazed when I saw the rear wheel come off the ground when I was just trying to lift the front up.
 

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horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
12,239
8,091
233
Wile Coyote's stunt double
Aug 16, 2012
#24
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #24
SoCalCruising said:
Maybe I'm the only one who would make a pattern to cut by.
Not as gifted as some, I guess.
Click to expand...
a pattern is the correct way to do things ,then if you need to do another one you have the pattern to do it again, i have patterns and templates for emblems and all kinds of things hainging all over my walls if you do a lot of them a jig is the only way to go
they come out the same every time,i have a jig for the fire wall and frame rails fore ward to assemble a complete front clip it works for 64-70 real time saver
 

331efiblue66

Member
Oct 11, 2006
111
1
17
Fort Wayne, IN
Aug 18, 2012
#25
  • Aug 18, 2012
  • #25
Maybe I'm the only one who would make a pattern to cut by.
Not as gifted as some, I guess.
Click to expand...

Sorry, no dig or disrespect on anyone's talent level meant by my comment...Anyone who is willing to "build it, not buy it" gets my utmost respect. Just trying to keep it light.....
 

SoCalCruising

Founding Member
Jul 25, 2000
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SoCal
Sep 5, 2012
#26
  • Sep 5, 2012
  • #26
No worries. No offense taken.
 

bacfire

Member
Aug 1, 2007
65
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6
Hattiesburg, MS
Sep 5, 2012
#27
  • Sep 5, 2012
  • #27
Another vote for subframe connectors. I welded Global West's under my '66 coupe and I could feel the difference before I even drove the car. Maybe it was in my head, but even the door closing seemed to give a more solid 'thunk'
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Sep 5, 2012
#28
  • Sep 5, 2012
  • #28
sub frame connectors in a 65 -66 isnt enough add torque boxes as well they tie the frame rails to the rockers that goes for 67s as well they only have a torque box on one side.
 

HookandLadder

Founding Member
Feb 17, 2001
261
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St Louis
Sep 8, 2012
#29
  • Sep 8, 2012
  • #29
The connectors will help with cracking, but the more HP you push, the more the cracks with come back even with the connectors. Ask me how I know. LOL
 
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