66 Clutch Pedal question...

[Boo Boo Foo]

Regarding the 66 Clutch Pedal assembly - and I guess it applies to all the models in the Classic era.

Does the clutch spring act as a return spring, or as an assistance spring? I ask this question because, quite frankly, no matter how many times I stare at a photograph of that old assembly, I just can't quite work out what's going on with the geometery involved. And why am I interested? Well, my z-bar clutch is just so achingly heavy at the moment. Clearly, upgrading to the Scott Drake sealed bearing bushings is going to help, I know that - but I'm also getting very bad clutch shudder too through the z-bar, and I'm seriously considering upgrading to the JMC hydraulic throwout bearing system. But being down here in Australia, I have to spend my money wisely - considering the exchange rates and shipping costs etc.

As always, research, research, research. So, assuming I theoretically disconnected the Z-bar pushrod from the clutch pedal... just how hard is the 66 clutch assembly to push, even if it isn't connected to anything? Also, theoretically, if the clutch assembly spring was disconnected, what would be the ramifications? Is the spring meant to be disconnected if the JMC system is used, for example?

I honestly have never used such a heavy, unpleasant clutch pedal in all my life. The combination of the clutch shudder and the heaviness makes me dread stop-go traffic for obvious reasons.
It's so bad I've even considered swapping to an AOD - the horror!

 

[dennis112]

Regarding the 66 Clutch Pedal assembly - and I guess it applies to all the models in the Classic era.

Does the clutch spring act as a return spring, or as an assistance spring? I ask this question because, quite frankly, no matter how many times I stare at a photograph of that old assembly, I just can't quite work out what's going on with the geometery involved. And why am I interested? Well, my z-bar clutch is just so achingly heavy at the moment. Clearly, upgrading to the Scott Drake sealed bearing bushings is going to help, I know that - but I'm also getting very bad clutch shudder too through the z-bar, and I'm seriously considering upgrading to the JMC hydraulic throwout bearing system. But being down here in Australia, I have to spend my money wisely - considering the exchange rates and shipping costs etc.

As always, research, research, research. So, assuming I theoretically disconnected the Z-bar pushrod from the clutch pedal... just how hard is the 66 clutch assembly to push, even if it isn't connected to anything? Also, theoretically, if the clutch assembly spring was disconnected, what would be the ramifications? Is the spring meant to be disconnected if the JMC system is used, for example?

I honestly have never used such a heavy, unpleasant clutch pedal in all my life. The combination of the clutch shudder and the heaviness makes me dread stop-go traffic for obvious reasons.
It's so bad I've even considered swapping to an AOD - the horror!

Clutch selection makes a world of difference in foot pressure. My suggestion would be to switch to a diaphram type clutch which requires less overall pedal effort.

I have a Centerforce Dual Friction and its pedal effort is almost effortless. It required removing the spring under the dash, because otherwise the pedal would stick to the floor and not return back to the upward position fast enough during high RPM shifts. With the spring removed, it works great, although the leg to pedal effort was minimal both ways.

Sorry I can't be of much more help. . . . . .

 

[Boo Boo Foo]

Ahh yes, I should have given some more data. In December 2004 I fitted a new 10" 157 tooth aluminum flywheel and a new King Cobra clutch. The pedal feel was lighter than before but still very hard going. The clutch shudder manifests itself after 10 miles or so of driving - almost as if the flywheel friction surface is heating up.

 

[fasttback]

Regarding the 66 Clutch Pedal assembly - and I guess it applies to all the models in the Classic era.

Does the clutch spring act as a return spring, or as an assistance spring? I ask this question because, quite frankly, no matter how many times I stare at a photograph of that old assembly, I just can't quite work out what's going on with the geometery involved.

It acts as both depending on where your pedal is in the "arc" movement. Overall it provides more "assistance" than return.

As for your clutch chatter, start with the external stuff - oil leaks or sloppy linkage (although I doubt the linkage, because of the 10 minute grace period). Then the internal stuff - clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, etc.).

 

[Westmus]

I honestly have never used such a heavy, unpleasant clutch pedal in all my life. ....

Had the same experience with a King Cobra and stock z-bar in my 65'. After som investigation, I removed about 1½" of the lower arm on the z-bar to change the "gear". Made a BIG BIG difference.
....And adjustede the throw out bearing to no slack, like the newer Mustangs with cable clutch run. Now the clutch fells just like my modern european car just a little bit heavier. Nearly perfekt.

The big spring under the dash don't make a big difference in how heavy the pedal fells. Mine was removed when I put the King Cobra in the car.