66 Mustang Combo Options

[rip-cord]

Hey guys I currently have a 1990 vert with a t-5 that I love but I recently got a lead on a 1966 stang that is in the family that is up for sale and I have always wanted an older classic stang. I know the car has been well taken care of and was resorted back in 1989. The car originally had a v6 but the conversion was done in 89 to change it over to a 289 block, which I believe is actually a 302 block (but I will have to check) with a C4 auto trans. Anyway took car for drive and it is a great car inside and out but underpowered compared to my 5.0 vert.

If I was to sell my vert I would need some more power, since it is not a numbers matching car I was wondering can I swap in a 351W (thinking about 400hp) with a t-5 trans with 3.73 gears to give me the power I need. Will this combo cost a fortune and what would have to be done to the body to support the higher horsepower, suspension, brakes, new motor mounts ect. I can build the 351W myself and do the work I am just worried about getting into a money pit if I do the swap, (you know little part here, small part there).

Any ideas and feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[tjm73]

You can put a hot 302 or a hot 351W in the early car. If you have 5.0 you likely already know the T5 is marginal for strength behind a 351W.

Other than 351W specific parts (headers mostly) it'll bolt right into the early car. What vintage is the car 65-66, 67-68, 69-70 or 71-73?

 

[gjz30075]

Check the rear end. If the swap was done properly and completely, the 6 cyl rear was swapped for either an 8" or 9". If not, its another consideration not only for strength but for the gears you want.

 

[rip-cord]

The car is a 66 stang. Good point on the rear end, I will check that, what are the markings I am looking for or where should I measure to see if it is an 8" or 9". If I should not put a t-5 after it what would be a good standard tranny that will hold up to the 351W hp.

What about the added weight of the 351W will that effect the front end. Do I need stiffer springs/reinforment in the front suspension.

Thanks

 

[Pakrat]

OK, first off, not to nit pick you, but just for your own future reference when talking to other folks or shops or whatever, the car came with an I6 not a V6 originally, just an FYI.

As for the tranny you have, the origianl 6cyl is easy to identify by it's enemic look or 4 lug bolt pattern on the rims, an 8" you will be able to fit a ratchet on all the bolts where as on the 9" the bottom ones have to be removed by an open ended wrench. Of course it could have an 8.8 also, but you should know what that looks like by your 90'.

I would first make sure everything was done properly on the swap, if alot of the 6 stuff was left in then it's like you are starting from scratch. Secondly I would see if the stock motor is set to factory specs or not. A factory 302 can be pumped up from a stock 220 max to 300hp with little effort. With the right cam, headers and carb combo, an electronic ignition and bump up the timing and you got a pretty stout feeling car. Bump the gears up to 3:50 +/- and you'll feel like your in your 5.0 even if it is actually quicker in a 1/4 mile. Perception can count for a lot over actual, especially if it's a cruiser/driver. If you need more you can always stroke it to 331 or 347 later on.

 

[gp001]

Before you go buildin a monster in your head, keep in mind that these old classics are really tire limited and (without modifications) can not easily handle the amount of horsies you are planning. Make sure you consider ALL areas (suspension, steering, chassis, brakes, etc) before you jump into the project.

 

[rip-cord]

Thanks for the help, I knew it was an I6 but I am so used to putting in V now. I will check the rear end thanks. I know the rims are 5 lug so that was done. The 302 is stock right now, might consider pumping that up. I like the idea of building another engine but still being able to drive the stang. I don't want to be without my stang for too long. For brakes I was thinking a disk brake conversion in the front and possibly the rear. What should I do for suspension upgrades with this combo? New springs or shocks needed? Figured I would put in monte carlo bar but is there anything besides that I would need.
What about a tranny; what will fit behind a 351W that can deal with the power?

Thanks for the replies, keep them coming.

 

[LMan]

Tremec is your 5-speed, if you plan on driving aggressively. A Toploader, if 4 forward gears is enough for you.

 

[Britt]

First off, if your building a 400 horse car you are going to want to re-do the suspention and drive line since the last time it was replaced was 89 like you said. If the suspention isnt in top shape I would (at the least) order a suspention kit from a place like mustang depot or other mustang supply place. An export brace and monte carlo bar is also a good idea as well as subframe connectors.

There are several disc conversions and you cant really go wrong with a good brand name. Brakes are important in a daily driver car especialy when you have more horsepower.

As far as the engine goes I would build a moter on the side like you said. You need to figure out what you are using the car for and how much power you want and most importantly; How much $$$$ you have to spend. There are endless combos and engine choices but generaly with a 66 you are limited to a 302 or 351 based moter. You can always stroke which is a popular thing today.

As far as transmitions go: Its up to you and your wallet. The C-4, properly built is a great transmition. Its used among alot of pure race cars as well as daily drivers, but the lack of overdrive is a disadvantage if you are used to it. In this case you might want to look into a t-5 or other transmition that would have an overdrive.

Good luck and get us some pics of the car!!!

 

[SadbutTrue]

The T5 will withstand a stock or very mild 351w, its just it limits you later on. For example, I wouldn't have a problem running a T5 behind my 351w, which I consider to have pretty much every bolt on avaliable. But if I were to add a more aggressive intake and a cam, i'd be driving on borrowed time. And forget about engines with aftermarket heads.

 

[Pakrat]

The only thing than that you should really take into consideration before formulating your game plan and budget on the project is how often will the car be used and under what conditions as gas ain't cheap right now. I mean, who doesn't want a bigger and more powerful engine, there is no replacement for displacement as they say. I wanted a 428 originally, but I have to say that even with only a 300hp 302, I have all the go I need, and driving it somewhat aggressively nets me about 8 miles to the gallon. I recently did a test where I drove conservative like a granny all week and I uped it to 12 mpg, but I had like zero fun too. Quite honestly it turns out the smaller 8 was ironically a much better choice than what I thought I wanted and more than sufficient for the 1200 +/- miles a year my car gets driven. Would I still like more, of course the heart says yes, but do I really need more, sadly no I don't.

 

[rip-cord]

The car would be a weekend fun car and show car. It would not be a daily driver. My 1990 stang is more of a daily driver so this would be more of a fun car. I was thinking I would do the build up in stages. I think I will go for a mild 351W how much is the diff between a rebuild kit and a stroker kit in price and hp.

I would do the suspension, and brake upgrades, and rear end if needed first (hope not). Then I can build the motor and tranny combo out of the car. I am thinking tremec becuase I am sure down the road I would want more hp in my never ending quest. Since it is an auto now what parts would I need to convert it over to a hydraulic clutch? Is a hydraulic clutch ok, I heard it takes up less room and will work better around the headers, is this true?

I did up some rough prices last night using mustangs unlimited and it looks like it is within my budget if I get what I want for the 1990 stang that I have.

I was wondering about power steering? Is this needed can I go without? Also do I need a power brake boster or will the stock one do for front disks and rear drums ok?

Thanks for the help guys, I don't want to go into this blind.

 

[rebel65]

i've got power steering and manual brakes. i haven't driven a stang without power steering, but i have driven into the street without the car on ( hell i don't need everyone knowing i came home at 3 am ) and it's a challenge, and you gotta go fast, but it's not impossible. i converted to front discs with the SSBC kit for stock 14" wheels with aluminum calipers, and even before with the 4 drums i didn't feel the need for a booster. in fact i seem to like the feel of the manual brakes more than my parent's expedition with the best power accessories i've ever tried. you can steer it with 1 finger, and the brake pedal is easily depressed. but yea, i think you should be find with manual brakes and possibly manual steering.

 

[Ozsum2]

Before you go buildin a monster in your head, keep in mind that these old classics are really tire limited and (without modifications) can not easily handle the amount of horsies you are planning. Make sure you consider ALL areas (suspension, steering, chassis, brakes, etc) before you jump into the project.

SD would be proud.