How do you remove the quarter panel on a '66 mustang coupe where it meets the roof? I know there was lead used where the two pieces are together and I'm curious what the best method (and safest) of removal is?
you will have to melt the lead at the quarter to roof joint . remove back window,quarter window and the lower part of head liner just to keep fire danger out.
then you will see the spot welds. use a spot weld cutter to drill the spot welds under the lead area and down the door jamb ,lower quarter and trunk /tail panel area and wheel lip. when you melt the lead it is only about 1- 1 1/2 inches form top of quarter panel so heat from the lowest point and go up so as not to warp the roof side and dont use any more heat than you have to to melt the lead.while the lead is starting to melt brush the lead with a wire brush ,it will brush right off. while the area is still hot whipe it with a rag and it will come out spotless. the door should stay on the car to help re align the new quarter and the same with the trunk lid . its not hard to do ,just take your time . wear a dust mask because of the lead and safty glasses .good luck
most shops just use bondo ,the best way is to weld the quarter on then
fill in the indent left from the lead with a strip of sheetmetal then a light bondoing
is all for perfection.
do not use bondo to fill in the seam the best way is too use all metal or duraglass a fiberglass thats spreadable both r water proof and wount start condensation like bondo will
I'm still slowly getting things done... at the point where I took out the rear quarter window and small weatherstrip piece, and I see spot welds on the quarter panel but they look as if it will be hard to get to and impossible to grind once I get the panel off. Im curious to know whats the best method to get the panel off at this point and the area prepped for the new panel? It looks as if I'd have to angle a drill bit to try and drill them out..? I'll try and snap a photo after work to better explain.
i use die grinder to grind those spot welds. you can cut that part loose from the quarter to make it easier to remove the piece in the quarter window. i usually trim the whole quarter face off first then remove the hard to get to places after
Upon test fitting the panel I just cannot seem to get the gap flush where it meets the piece right infront of the trunk. The best I can seem to get it is about 1/8th an inch or so. Everything else seems to line up okay except I'll have to massage the door area at the bottom as it scrapes the door when I push it flush with the rocker panel.
I'm not looking for a show car as this will be driven to work everyday, but am definitely curious if this gap is acceptable or if there's any suggestions on how to get it flush? This is a dynacorn panel I got from CJponyparts.. and knowing that not all panels will fit perfect I kinda expected this area to line up flush.
if you dont have the panel welded in place yet take it back off and dolly the piece flat at the back window and grind any metal like spot welds or any other metal flashing that will not let the panel close up the gap. clamp it together from under side you should be able to force the quarter back enough to make the door gap and the back window area line up. some times a sheet metal screw will hold things in place
you are doing great so far. you may want to check the door jamb were the quarter over laps as well .make sure its as flat and straight as possible it will make the quarter that much easier to fit.if the quarter still will not go back far enough you can push the outer edge of the door jamb back a little
a friend of mine just asked me to do some work on a 68 fast back for him.it has had a quarter replaced several years ago. i thought you may want to see what a truely nasty repair looks like. instead of replacing the full quarter they cut it at the rear roof area and torch welded the new one in place, overlaping the panels. the lower portion that meets the rocker over haings almost 1/4 inch. the welded area at the top is so warped and disstorted that to me it was a waist of time and sheet metal, they just plasterd it with bondo. nasty nasty
Yeah I appreciate the pics and all the help, im still having a hard time with the door gap and lining up at the bottom. I took the panel off to finish prep work and im hoping to get things done by Saturday so I can start lining it up and welding it in. Is it easier to sheetmetal screw the door area and get it lined before lining up the rear?
Also, as far as paint goes im not looking to strip the whole car down to metal other then the quarters, is it okay to sand with 40 d epoxy over the prior urethane finish and then filler on top?