66 mustang tri-4 link

66g-machine · Jul 19, 2005

Hi all,

Today I finished the drawing and kinematics for the 65/66 mustang rear satchell link suspension. It is going to be bolt in but welding is always advisable for high use/horsepower cars. I have already made and trial fit the cross member, but the rest will be coming along this weekend. The drawings on the site do not show the shock, upper shock bracket, or upper arm mount bracket, but they are fairly straightforward, and I didn't feel the need to spend more time drawing them. Take a look and use the contact page to tell me what you think or where you feel it needs improvement. One thing that needs to be revised in the drawing is the driveshaft loop. I made it a full loop for structural and safety reasons.

Thanks

Louie Dietz

http://www.g-machine-performance.com/rear-satchell.html

mustangdave · Jul 19, 2005

Wow, can't wait to see those frt. suspension arms. The rear design looks impressive until you see the driveshaft loop. I know you said you were making it a full loop but that is still a very weak point. You need some thicker metal there like the rest of the crossmember and possibly some welded on supports. I really like the exhaust cutouts: the driveshaft loop should be more like those. Post pics of the first actual pieces!

DarkoStoj · Jul 19, 2005

what adjustability range do you have for antisquat?

Also why not triangulate the uppers so you get a higher roll center?

68rustang · Jul 19, 2005

that crossmember is scary. Where do the springs/shocks/coilovers mount?

TOM B · Jul 19, 2005

Nice setup 66G.
One comment though, I think the brackets held on by U bolts should be welded to prevent axle twist and prevent you from any steering hazard. Once you have it aligned you can make adjustments by the adjustable eyelets.
Once its set up and tested then make a few thousand and sell them!!!!

DarkoStoj · Jul 19, 2005

TOM B said:
Nice setup 66G.
One comment though, I think the brackets held on by U bolts should be welded to prevent axle twist and prevent you from any steering hazard. Once you have it aligned you can make adjustments by the adjustable eyelets.
Once its set up and tested then make a few thousand and sell them!!!!

the eyelets are there to adjust the charachteristics of the suspension(antisquat mostly)

the triangulated arms should be adjustable to adjust the pinion angle & centering of the rear axle, and the non triangulated arms should be adjustable for changes in wheelbase.

I also think the brackets should be weldon.... but a lot of people are interested in things that will "bolt on"

rbohm · Jul 20, 2005

not a bad design, i would have like to see a torque arm suspension though with a stout panhard bar instead of a four link. interesting idea to angle the lower arms instead of the uppers, should result in far less binding

66g-machine · Jul 20, 2005

Mustang dave- yes the driveshaft loop now has an upper and lower portion strengthened by 2x4 .120 rectangular tubing

Dark stoj- the antisquat is adjustably from about 60-100%. Please explain to me why you would want a higher roll center, as this charicteristic is known to cause terrible handling problems and road feel.

68rustang- The shock mount is not pictured, but will be extended from the back of the link mounts to the top of the frame rail. look at the pictures for a half circle on the back and thats approximately where they will go.

Tom B- welding stuff like this on is ALWAYS a good idea, especially for high HP cars that see track time. If you have the means to do so, I would do it, along with seam welding the subframes. This combination will produce a very ridgid back end, especially when coupled with my subframe connectors(coming soon)

DarkoStoj · Jul 20, 2005

66g-machine said:
Mustang dave- yes the driveshaft loop now has an upper and lower portion strengthened by 2x4 .120 rectangular tubing

Dark stoj- the antisquat is adjustably from about 60-100%. Please explain to me why you would want a higher roll center, as this charicteristic is known to cause terrible handling problems and road feel.

68rustang- The shock mount is not pictured, but will be extended from the back of the link mounts to the top of the frame rail. look at the pictures for a half circle on the back and thats approximately where they will go.

Tom B- welding stuff like this on is ALWAYS a good idea, especially for high HP cars that see track time. If you have the means to do so, I would do it, along with seam welding the subframes. This combination will produce a very ridgid back end, especially when coupled with my subframe connectors(coming soon)

I was mostly talking out of my ass

I built link suspensions for rockcrawlers, and we are always shooting for higher roll centers to keep the body more stable, and I was thinking since these cars would also benefit from a higher roll center, but I didn't know they could have too much.

I'm gonna do some reading on it since I plan on linking my 67 fastback fairly soon.

66g-machine · Jul 21, 2005

for some reading material i suggest chassis engineering by herb adams, best 15 dollars I ever spent.

70vert · Nov 28, 2005

(resurrecting the thread)

Here are a few good links to find out about Satchell 4-links. The consensus at Corner-Carvers is that they are the best option for solid axle cars:

http://www.automotivearticles.com/Suspension_Design_2.shtml

http://www.corner-carvers.com/

The "Satchell" part of the 4-link refers to the lower arms being angled in - the angled arms allow for the axle to be located laterally, so theoretically no need for a Panhard or Watt's link, and therefore easier exhaust routing. It also can fit into a compact space - the angled arms just have to go to some center support - and there's lots of clearance for fat tires:

How's it going on availability, Gmachines?? I'm interested . . . :Track:

mtbdoc · Dec 11, 2005

Been away from this board...and saw this thread again

I had some emails with Louie late last summer. He told me that he couldn't get the Satchell link design to work out. Also that school and work were keeping him busy.

So...back to square one. But I'll ask the same question I did on another thread: has anyone checked out the suspension available from Martz? The blue 66 2+2 from Year 1 used their front and rear setups. I've been focusing on other projects and haven't kept up with Mustang stuff in months.

66 mustang tri-4 link

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