'66FBGT 289 Engine Rebuild Estimate

65ShelbyClone · Oct 20, 2007

Cost can be reduced quite a bit if you ca do the assembly yourself. I 'd have to dig out the receipts for an exact amount, but IIRC, my unassembled roller 302 shortblock was about $1300 OTD with forged Speedpros, a Crane 2031 roller cam, new FMS lifters, and a brand new 5.0L block.

hivewax · Oct 22, 2007

the shop said they over estimated the quote. a itemized part list is in hand when the engine is in progress. and, sure i can bolt up parts. i just like the peace of mind.

i was thinking of the forged crank, but they said i won't feel the difference on the street. what do you all think?

and, should i go w/MSD plug + play distributor or MSD ignition + distributor?

hivewax · Oct 22, 2007

heads are from Patriot Performance in Alabama.

D.Hearne · Oct 22, 2007

hivewax said:
the shop said they over estimated the quote. a itemized part list is in hand when the engine is in progress. and, sure i can bolt up parts. i just like the peace of mind.

i was thinking of the forged crank, but they said i won't feel the difference on the street. what do you all think?

and, should i go w/MSD plug + play distributor or MSD ignition + distributor?

Unless you're going to drag race it full time or spray it, a cast crank is fine and actually easier on the block, it'll weigh less than a forging. As for ignition, a stock Duraspark is fine for 90% of applications, only thing I'd change is to a hotter coil with one. Save your money on something that will give you more bang for the buck. I had a friend ask the same question, but he ignored my advice and was talked into a full MSD system to replace the stock setup on a 90 GT Mustang. I saw him a few weeks after he'd installed the MSD and asked him if he felt a $400+ dollar difference. He hung his head and sheepishly answered "NO"

hivewax · Oct 23, 2007

thanx Hearne, i will stick with your advice.

as for the heads, i read here that Patriot are made in China and has a 5/8" deck height, while the AFR has a 3/4" deck height. can anyone confirm or correct me?

D.Hearne · Oct 23, 2007

I don't recall but there ARE cheap aluminum heads on ebay that have .400 thick decks, that's even thinner.(I don't recall the name) Seems Edelbrocks have 5/8 decks, can't speak for AFR's. My Canfields were 5/8 till I milled a 1/16 off them (.060 mill to get them from 64 to 57 ccs) I had head gasket problems with Felpro "Print-o-****s" but since switched to the expanded graphites coated with Kopper-Kote, no probems since.

SoCalCruising · Oct 25, 2007

Yes, AFR's are spec'd t have 3/4" decks. But I've never measured them. ;-)>

hivewax · Oct 29, 2007

Originality

ok, i've checked the block. i want to know if the engine matches the VIN. the only numbers i've found were C6AE-6015-C with 7824 underneath located on the bottom half of the block. is this the production number? the lettering was approx. 3/8" in height. i found a plate on the block but no numbers.

hivewax · Oct 29, 2007

C6 = 1966
A = Galaxie
E = Engine Engineering

so, this is not the original block. Z is for Mustangs. am i correct?

Tim65GT · Oct 29, 2007

hivewax
C6 = 1966
A = Galaxie
E = Engine Engineering

so, this is not the original block. Z is for Mustangs. am i correct?

My Ford Engine Parts Interchange Book says A is Ford.

Yes, Z is for Mustang.

hivewax · Oct 30, 2007

anyone here have "A" on their original block.

D.Hearne · Oct 30, 2007

Tim65GT said:
My Ford Engine Parts Interchange Book says A is Ford.

Yes, Z is for Mustang.

No, you're both off. The casting number only tells you the first model year and vehicle line the engineering costs were assigned to. Any block could and most often was used in any and all other vehicles using the same engine the part was used in. "A" was the letter code for full size Ford cars, but doesn't mean it was originally installed in a full size Ford at the factory, a C6AE 289 block would have been used in full size Fords and all other vehicle lines using a 289 engine as well.

65ShelbyClone · Oct 30, 2007

I know it's not technically correct, but I just think of the AE suffix as "Anything & Everything." Most of the casting numbers on car engine blocks I've seen have the year code followed by AE. On exception is VE for the truck line.

D.Hearne · Oct 31, 2007

"VE" isn't for the truck line. That's a Lincoln part. Truck parts were "TE". Many small block parts had "OE" or "ZE" in the prefix. "AE" is usually more common in big block parts.

hivewax · Nov 1, 2007

thanx for the feedback.

for what's said here... a previous owner could of put in another 289 with C6AE and said it's original. and, there is no way for me knowing if it's the original block... only by word of mouth.

D.Hearne · Nov 1, 2007

There is a way of telling, check the date codes on the block and the build date on the car. The block will have been cast a week or up to a month or more than the car's build date. Then some states required the VIN number stamped on the block, that will be on the flat space behind the intake.

hivewax · Nov 13, 2007

Flywheel

the shop wants to use a CAT billet steel 24lb. flywheel. http://catpep.com

has anyone heard of these guys? site has it for $90.

65ShelbyClone · Nov 13, 2007

AFAIK, the CAT stuff is cheap because it comes from China like Pro-comp heads, and Professional Products' stuff.

hivewax · Nov 14, 2007

okay, i told them to get a well-known brand flywheel. i want a lighter flywheel (billet steel) to free up some HP.

and, it feels like they are going cheap on me... buying cheap items and knocking the price up to match. i also said i wanted the AFR heads. should i replace the Professional Products balancer?

anything i should watch out for. i'm worried they might put cheap parts for the stuff i asked for. should i take pix of the parts and assembly?!

SoCalCruising · Nov 14, 2007

That balancer is probably okay. BHJ and TCI make the best, but overkill for your motor. The Summit balancer is good, too, and cheaper than TCI or BHJ.

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