67 Mustang eninge build and rear end questions

[67LimeGreen]

67 Mustang engine build and rear end questions

So I bought a 67 Mustang about 5 years ago, drove it for a while, tore it apart and ran out of money so it has been sitting in my garage ever since. Well some dick just ran head on in to me and totalled my car and tried to say I ran a red light. Nobody who saw the accident stayed around so neither insurance could find fault and I only had liability, so I am out a car. It turned out to be a blessing though because I convinced my wife it would make more since for me to put $8,000.00 in to finishing my Mustang instead of buying an older junker. So, 5 years later I am trying to work with what I started and may not have planned too well. Anyway, I have a 289 that is bored .30 over. I have the pistons and camshaft installed. I decided back then to go with the Performer RPM package, cams, intake, heads, etc... at 10.5:1 compression. I will be putting tri-y headers on the car, the rest is pretty basic. My questions are, is that compression ok? I am guessing I will need to run 93, but I dont want to break anything since I know the RPM is made for higher rpm's. Also, I have a 8 inch posi rear end. Is this set up going to make too much HP or will I be fine with my 8 inch? Does anyone know about what this should put to the wheels? I am putting a T-5 transmission in the car as well. I am kind of on a budget crunch and time crunch to get this car running well and I am trying to get all the technical information down while I do the body work. Thanks for any input!

 

[2+2GT]

Your compression will be fine, and with a little attention you could probably use "regular".

A decently done 8" will be fine, the 8" was really an 8" version of the 9", they even shared some internal parts.

The T5 is an easy conversion, even if you are changing from auto it's an easy change, could be done on a long Saturday.

 

[rpk]

-change the stock rod bolts for ARP bolts,seen too many rod bolts let go. The bolts are the weakest link.
-if you go with the aluminum heads,compression is fine
-don't want to jinx anything,but up here,shops are moving away from edelbrock cams(engines not lasting through break in,wearing through lifters) and using Comp cams and lifters exclusively,for flat lifter cams
-the 8 inch should be OK, with the t5,make sure tires aren't too sticky

 

[67LimeGreen]

Yea I replaced the rod bolts already when I did the rebuild, I was just afraid I jumped to buying things back then and did not take the time to plan out what I was actually doing, but I think it will be fine and I wont be running anything special tire wise. This is going to be a daily drive, so I will probably stick with my stock 15" until I have a little extra cash to put on some 17" bullit wheels. Also, looking around on here I saw a lot of posts saying not to rebuild the rear end if it is working fine. Well, I am not sure what gears I have in there, I know before it howled like mad with my 4 spd on the highway, so I am guessing it is at least 3.55 and was probably already rebuilt at some point, which probably justifies not needing to tear it apart again since the car had low miles on it when I got it. Should I be fine just leaving the rear end on the car and going from there? Is there anything I should look for as far as wear and tear before I hook everything up to it? I saw some people saying replace the axle bearings but I dont really have the tools handy so should I just drive it and wait until something needs replacing? I am guessing most shops can swap that out pretty fast and cheaply on down the road if need be. Or is it worth it to rent the tools and do it now to prevent future problems since my gears will probably last as long as I drive the car, unless I tear them up! I guess I need to go ahead and change the fluids so what should I look for to know exactly what my gear ratio is?

Side not, does anyone know what a performer rpm package on a 289 bored .30 over dyno's around?

 

[shoguun]

Side not, does anyone know what a performer rpm package on a 289 bored .30 over dyno's around?

i know of a person
he has a 65 falcon 289 bored .30 and he has that package
this is his stangnet id 5280/4

 

[rpk]

what do you mean by howled? High rpms or noise from the rear end? If it's just rpm's the T5 will take care of that. If you mean noise, and if the gears are not original,someone didn't set them up properly.
To check the ratio you don't need to open it. Put a mark on the inside of tire and a mark on drive shaft. Rotate the drive shaft and count how many times the mark passes the starting point before the mark on the tire makes it back to the same spot. Eg. the mark on the dive shaft will go by 3 times and make it around 1/2 rev. when the mark on the tire comes around once,then it's 3.55. If any work needs to be done can I recommend a 3.73 ratio if you can,the engine won't lug as much and you will be more in the power band and won't need as much throttle to keep it moving.
Any time we need tools,many parts stores here in Canada will lend you,free, any tool you need,I'm sure there's something like that in the U.S. Or we drive over to Detroit to Harbor Freight tools,not the best quality but for the back yard guy,good enough.
Just remember,it might be cheaper to get it checked out by someone you trust, than to wait for something to happen and end up at the side of the road with more damage. Just my two cents from experience.

 

[67LimeGreen]

Sorry, not a howl like the rear end is messed up, just thought the engine might blow up driving it like 150 miles because the rev was so high. I knew I could mark the drive shaft and tire, problem is all that is torn off the car, the rear end is the only thing left on it so I was trying to determine the gearing now while I had everything tore apart. I figured I would find a place around here that could look at it once it was done, just didnt know if there was anything I should go ahead and do while my car was on jack stands and torn apart. And yea I can rent tools around here from like Advance Auto Parts and we have a Harbor Freight right by my house as well. Its just I am on kind of a time restriction and budget to get it done so I have a car to drive since mine was totalled. I wont be able to put in the nicest supsension and steering like I wanted, but I dont want to cut corners on anything else so I am trying to get as much information. Im probably just going to get the suspension rebuild kits for the front and back and do the Shelby drop and then put disc brakes on the front and maybe power steering. I wish I could spend 2 grand on some nice suspension.

 

[JonK]

If you think the rear wheel bearings are original 40+ yrs. old I'd change them now. I had one lock up on me before I could change it (had all the parts waiting) the wheel would not budge, I've seen them burn up at highway speeds, welded to the axle. It's not that hard to do, axle slide hammer is a free rental at the parts store. Bearings are ~$30pr., seals ~$10pr.

Pop the axles out with the slide, remove the old seals, clean, install new seals. There is a steel bearing retainer that you can chisel off in a vise before taking the axles to a shop, you make 4 marks and hammer until it spins loose. The shop will charge by the hour probably so the easier you make it for them the cheaper.

Take the axles to a shop with the new bearings/retainers and have them press the old off/new on. Bring them home, install on the correct side (one's short, one's long, only fit one way). Slide them in the axle tube carefully not to damage the seals, put a piece of wood against the axle flange and tap with a hammer and they will 'snap' back in = done.

If you have drum rears you can take them off all in one piece and leave them connected to the emer. brake cable and just lay them aside. When the axles back in slip the brake backing plate over the axle, 4 bolts, drum on your done.
Jon

 

[rpk]

OK then,if the rear is on your conscience get someone trustworthy look at it,and won't sell you what you don't need. After that make sure it is safe. Here,we have to bring a car in for a "safety check" when ownership is changing,or voluntary if you just want piece of mind. It involves making sure the braking system is working properly and in spec(drums and rotors not machined too far,pads/shoes have meat,etc.),brake lines aren't about to burst(steel and rubber). Making sure the exhaust system and floor are in good condition so fumes don't get in. They check the suspension for dangerous or worn components(ball joints,tie rods,etc). Tires are checked for wear/dry rot. Lights,wipers, horn are checked also. Frame is checked. After that change what you want as time/money allow. If you look up some Canadian Ministry of Transportation sites(Ontario,Alberta,B.C. etc),there might be a safety inspection sheet you can download,sometimes we go to a garage and ask for one so we can check ourselves before they inspect it. Hope this helps.

 

[rebel65]

the grab a trak spring and handling kit is less than 500 bucks i mean sure it isn't everything but it's a good chunk of what you feel on the road. and your 8 inch will be fine, the edelbrock 289 package is not going to be a crazy upgrade to the car, it will def increase your power but i doubt it will break it.

 

[67LimeGreen]

I didnt think they were original at first because I didnt think factory gearing would be so high, but it looks like they could be 3.89:1 since that was an option. Considering it ran fine before the rebuild I will probably just hook everything up and then get it looked at once it is running.