68 fastback GT

stallion98gt · Dec 14, 2003

after watching the movie BULLITT...I'm thinking of getting a 68 fastback GT with a 390 as a week end car...as I am really new to classic mustangs but not to mustangs (I owned a 98GT and now I have a 01GT) I was wondering if you guys can give me tips on where to find one and how much $$ are we talking...what are the classic mistakes a newbie buyer has to be aware of..?..thanks !!!!

zookeeper · Dec 14, 2003

Price-wise, you can count on at least $10,000 for a decent car, and close to twice that for a show-quality car. As far as advice, try to buy a rust-free car above all else. Rust is the bane of all classic Mustang.

stallion98gt · Dec 14, 2003

zookeeper said:
Price-wise, you can count on at least $10,000 for a decent car, and close to twice that for a show-quality car. As far as advice, try to buy a rust-free car above all else. Rust is the bane of all classic Mustang.

I see..it's decent price....what are good places to find one online ?..any store to recommend in California who sell some ?
also what are the specs of that 390 engine ? (i'm only familiar with modular motors... )

snowb07 · Dec 14, 2003

you can always go to ebay,, they have alot of classic cars,,
Fred

71resto · Dec 14, 2003

Check with "THe Mustang Ranch" in Fresno, they sell decent cars for a fair price (at least that's what I've been told). You can also go to "www.vintage-mustang.com" and they have a wanted ads section in there. Just list what you are looking for and that you want it within driving distance of the Bay Area. Whether you go that route or ebay---- DO NOT BUY A CAR SIGHT UNSEEN!!! Make sure you check it over top to bottom for any hidden problems. The typical rust points on a vintage mustang are:
the cowl area, the floorpans (chekc under the car), the rear quarters, the trunk drop-offs on each side and then also check over the frame rails and around the front/rear window frames.

stallion98gt · Dec 14, 2003

71resto said:
Check with "THe Mustang Ranch" in Fresno, they sell decent cars for a fair price (at least that's what I've been told). You can also go to "www.vintage-mustang.com" and they have a wanted ads section in there. Just list what you are looking for and that you want it within driving distance of the Bay Area. Whether you go that route or ebay---- DO NOT BUY A CAR SIGHT UNSEEN!!! Make sure you check it over top to bottom for any hidden problems. The typical rust points on a vintage mustang are:
the cowl area, the floorpans (chekc under the car), the rear quarters, the trunk drop-offs on each side and then also check over the frame rails and around the front/rear window frames.

thanks for the tips

68GEETEE · Dec 14, 2003

make sure the vin code has an 'S' for the engine, thats what the 390 was back in '68. Also, watch for cars that dont have original drivers doors and data plates, or you might get someone selling you on the wrong information. The vin plate on the door should match the vin on top of the dashboard (passenger side). Watch for rusted floorboards and cowl area. Lots of junk on ebay, good ones too, you need to ask lots of questions cause they all claim their cars are original.

65shlbycln · Dec 14, 2003

do your research before buying a classic mustang. Learn the as much as you can about the car before you even set foot in one. The more you know, the easier it is to spot a good car. looks can be very very decieving when it comes to old cars.

'68StangGT · Dec 14, 2003

this ought to fuel the fire

'68StangGT · Dec 14, 2003

one more

3spd on floor · Dec 14, 2003

with the elenore craze going on right now you're gonna have a hard time finding a fastback GT 390 without having to give up your left nut. you would be much better off trying to find a non-GT 289 or 302 car. you could get a very nice driver for much less than you would pay for an original GT 390. then you just add and subtract a few emblems and you've got a car that looks just like it. you could build a 302 up to be just as quick as a 390 car for less money. there are LOTS of options out there, check them out before shelling out the bucks.

stallion98gt · Dec 14, 2003

[QUOTE='68StangGT]one more [/QUOTE]
nice.......

..I can see myself driving it in the streets of SF...

stallion98gt · Dec 14, 2003

3spd on floor said:
with the elenore craze going on right now you're gonna have a hard time finding a fastback GT 390 without having to give up your left nut. you would be much better off trying to find a non-GT 289 or 302 car. you could get a very nice driver for much less than you would pay for an original GT 390. then you just add and subtract a few emblems and you've got a car that looks just like it. you could build a 302 up to be just as quick as a 390 car for less money. there are LOTS of options out there, check them out before shelling out the bucks.

thanks ...good idea too....

Fostang · Dec 14, 2003

Joe is this you?

I think I have talked to you before on the phone about your buddies cobra R's.

If it is sweet if not well excuse the mistake.

stallion98gt · Dec 15, 2003

Fostang said:
Joe is this you?

I think I have talked to you before on the phone about your buddies cobra R's.

If it is sweet if not well excuse the mistake.

nope it's not Joe... ..it's all good...

Edbert · Dec 15, 2003

71resto said:
The typical rust points on a vintage mustang are:
the cowl area, the floorpans (chekc under the car), the rear quarters, the trunk drop-offs on each side and then also check over the frame rails and around the front/rear window frames.

Notes...
When checking for floorpan rust, crawling underneath the car is NOT good enough. You'll need to peel back the carpeting and look on TOP of the pans. These cars often rusted through from the inside. Either a cowl leak or wet feet could do it.

Also look for rust/bondo on the lower doors outside. Take a flashlight and a scope and look inside the doors (these also rusted from the insides).
The frame rails are VERY important since they are tough to replace well. There are four of them, make sure there is no rust in them for the sake of safety.

Also investigate the front-clip. Look at the radiator support for sings of collision repair, and check the shock towers for cracks (particularly big-blocks).

Good luck!

EDIT: run on sentences

bud4660 · Dec 15, 2003

I just sold a 98GT Vert so I could pick up a 67GT Fastback. Its a S code car that was a factory 4 speed. It has a C6 in it now. I am restoring as much as I can. There is no rust that I have found. The sad thing is someone has tubbed the car and put a 10 point cage in it. So I am going to rebuild all that I can and just drag race it with a little street time. I think it will draw too much attention on the street.
It says my picture is to big. But here's one from the rear.

'68StangGT · Dec 15, 2003

WOW

thats some serious meat in the back

stallion98gt · Dec 15, 2003

[QUOTE='68StangGT]WOW

thats some serious meat in the back[/QUOTE]
ditto..are these 385 or something ?

67GTA-FB429 · Dec 15, 2003

If you decide to find a 68 FB and wanta Bullitt, go with a big block motor. Either the 390-428 series or the 429-460 monsters. You cannot beat the torque of a big block motor. The FE series is cool from the nostalgia aspect but pasrts can be tough to find. I have a 429 in my 67 GTA.

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