68 Stang doesnt crank anymore! Help!

Stang17 · Oct 3, 2009

Hello Fellas,

So I recently bought a 68 Mustang Coupe (200 ci 1V 6-cyl), and here's my story:

When I first bought her she turned (there would be some clicks but eventually she'd start). She kept turning for about two weeks, when one day I turned the key and it kept clicking but the engine wouldn't turn. So I thought may be pumping the gas and switching the ignition on and off would eventually make it start, IT DIDN'T.

The car ended up dieing, no sound/click anything when I switched the ignition. When I jumped the car, the wire going from the battery to the solenoid starting smoking/burning (at the end connected to the solenoid). So:

I didn't do anything for three weeks as I ordered a solenoid from cjponyparts. Today I replaced the solenoid and voila the wires don't burn when I jump the car. The car is even holding a charge (ie. the lights come on when I open the door, radio works), but still when I turn the key I hear a click or something (could be the fuel) and nothing happens after that.

Do you think I destroyed the starter in my early attempts to start the car?
Is there any diagnosis strategies to figure out where to start from?

Thanks!

PS
I'm also replacing my floorpans, and I'm riveting them instead of welding them (dont have the welding tools). Any suggestions/comments?

shoguun · Oct 3, 2009

Try pulling the starter i guess. You could have blown the distributor or damaged it maybe. I dont know about riveting the floor pans. You could take it to a machine shop or something and get a fair price for welding new ones in.

Stang17 · Oct 4, 2009

thanks....

i took out the starter and kept it connected the car and noticed that it wasn't spinning...so does that definitively tell me that the starter is done?

also does anybody know how much it costs to get somebody to weld a floorpan?

2+2GT · Oct 4, 2009

Stang17 said:
also does anybody know how much it costs to get somebody to weld a floorpan?

Depends on how much pan, and how good they are.

kilgorq · Oct 4, 2009

Stang17 said:
thanks....

i took out the starter and kept it connected the car and noticed that it wasn't spinning...so does that definitively tell me that the starter is done?

also does anybody know how much it costs to get somebody to weld a floorpan?

Take the starter to your local Parts store and have them test it for you.

68Blue302Coupe · Oct 4, 2009

My '68 used to have the 200 I6 and I went through 2 or 3 starters on it over the years. I usually got whatever the cheap one was a the parts store, and they kept frying. If you can find one with a lifetime warranty, get it.

My floors, front torque boxes, and frame rails had some pretty bad rust and I had everything replaced by a Mustang shop. It was pretty insanely expensive, but most of that for me was in the frame / torque box work. The cost really depends on how extensive the rust is and how close to the firewall the damage is (where the torque boxes, floors, and frame meet).

My friend had both his full floors (from the toe boards to the back seat) replaced for around $800 including the front frame rail extensions under the floors and the seat pans. Shop it around and try to bargain with the shop, maybe they'll give you a break. Can't hurt to try.

kilgorq · Oct 4, 2009

I would bet if you get everything placed so that all they have to do is tack it. The price would be very affordable. You may even be able to find someone to do it for a six pack.

Stang17 · Oct 5, 2009

thanks!

anyonw know how to bench test the starter or solenoid?

woodsnake · Oct 5, 2009

"anyonw know how to bench test the starter or solenoid? "

At the parts store.

A no start is fairly easy to diagnose. Check your battery cables for cleanliness, make sure the cables are tight.
Read up on how to do a voltage drop test.

Also, make sure your shifter lever is all the way up in "park". there is a neutral safety switch that will prevent the car from starting in gear. you may just have to wiggle the shifter handle a bit while turning the key.

Rusty67 · Oct 5, 2009

Sounds to me like some sort of voltage issue if the click you are describing is the starter motor relay or the starter trying to turn over but not being able to. Pull the battery out of the car and have it fully charged either with a charger at your house or take it to autozone which will provably charge it for free. Not sure about the other major autoparts stores (I'm not a fan of autozone I just know they will do it for free).

I would replace the battery cables and starter cables for good measure unless you know they are new. A lot of times you will see people using two positive cables or two negative cables which will cause problems because one of the posts is bigger and if you use the wrong size then one either doesn't fit well or never gets tight enough. I would also add an engine ground strap for good measure.

Pull the starter and check the starter gear to make sure that it is in good condition. If the ring gear on the starter is jacked you will need a new gear which can be put on by a starter/alternator service shop or you can trade it in as a core for a rebuilt one at an autoparts store.

To bench test the starter, use a pair of jumper cables and a car battery that is NOT hooked up to anything (if using the one in the car pull it out for safety sake). Ground the starter from the mount flange to the battery's negative terminal. Put the positive of the jumper cable on the positive post of the battery cable. When you are ready to test the starter, put the other end of the positive clamp onto the threaded post you would normally connect the power cable for the starter to. The starter should spin right up. I would expect some sparks and you may want to hold the starter down with something or have a friend step on it to hold it in place. Safety glasses might be a good idea on this one if you have never done it before.

Stang17 · Nov 8, 2009

thanks

thanks for all your help guys!

it was a starter/solenoid plus faulty cables....

heres what i did to fix the problem

1. replaced the solenoid
2. replace the starter
3. and clean the cable ends

i used a multimeter and checked the charge between the cables, it seemed the cable going from the solenoid to the starter wasn't carrying the initial charge...

thanks guys

68 Stang doesnt crank anymore! Help!

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