70 MM TB, CAI, and it runs slower + idles higher.

[Rick's Fords]

So a buddy of mine gave me this stuff for free off his 91 5.0 that he's selling. I have a rebuilt 89 5.0 w/o MAF. I put all this on, and the motor revved high as crap, so I backed off the timing, and backed out the idle screw. I drove it home like this because it was dark and we were wrapping up for the night.

I noticed the motor has lost a lot of power, but I also remember that vaccum line to the EGR that I broke.

Just wondering if this little line could cause massive loss in power, and if I should reset the computer. If I read correctly, you just unhook the battery for 30 mins?

I also went from electronic fans to a manual one, because the wiring for the electronic fans was crap, and so were the fans. Good idea, or bad. They kept cutting off when they wanted, almost causing the car to overheat, but I caught it in time each time.

Any input appreciated.

 

[jackchan]

a 70mm tb could be to big for your said combo. Also the backing the timing down didnt help matters much. Try fixing that tube, move your timing back up and get a volt meter and set your tps to make sure everything is close to the same then see how it drives. If it still feels like its lost power then , it prolly has....go back to what you had before.
Jack

 

[Speeds8erM-1]

So a buddy of mine gave me this stuff for free off his 91 5.0 that he's selling. I have a rebuilt 89 5.0 w/o MAF. I put all this on, and the motor revved high as crap, so I backed off the timing, and backed out the idle screw. I drove it home like this because it was dark and we were wrapping up for the night.

I noticed the motor has lost a lot of power, but I also remember that vaccum line to the EGR that I broke.

Just wondering if this little line could cause massive loss in power, and if I should reset the computer. If I read correctly, you just unhook the battery for 30 mins?

I also went from electronic fans to a manual one, because the wiring for the electronic fans was crap, and so were the fans. Good idea, or bad. They kept cutting off when they wanted, almost causing the car to overheat, but I caught it in time each time.

Any input appreciated.

If you backed off the timing, there is your power loss. If you are running a stock intake and didnt match the opening, you just added turbulence to the air coming in since the tb is way bigger than the stock 60mm opening.

 

[N8Miller]

is your setup basicly stock? If so, that 70mm is killing it. 65 would have been the better choice.

 

[04sleeper]

Pull the TB off and put your stock one back on, reset your timing, and set your TP sensor because you messed with the idle screw. Then fix that vacuum leak and you car will be faster.

Then unhook your battery for 20 minutes or so to reset it.

 

[18mustangs]

If you're using the stock EGR spacer with the 70mm TB, that's one problem. The EGR is another, so fix that vacuum tube. And going from an electric fan to the stock fan will make the car feel slower. If going back to the stock TB, or getting a 70mm EGR spacer and port matching the intake opening to it doesn't yield the proper results fix the electric fan and put it on.
Tim

 

[Rick's Fords]

I had used the proper EGR spacer, one that was matched to the TB, but when I opened the butterfly, it was clear that the intake was much smaller.

I put the stock TB and spacer back on, reset the computer, and now I think I have a bigger problem. The car is running as if it has a blown head gasket. I don't see how, 14k on rebuild, but that's how it's feeling. Stalling, stuttering on acceleration, but the thing is, if I cut it off, let it sit 10 seconds, and start it back up, it will idle fine for 1 min, then die out again.

Is this normal for having just reset the computer or what?

 

[04sleeper]

No. That is not normal after reseting the computer.

If it were a blown headgasket then you might see water in the oil or oil in the water. Or it would have low compression on 1 or more cylinders.

It sounds like something did not get hooked back up properly or there is a vacuum leak somewhere.

 

[18mustangs]

If it were a blown headgasket then you might see water in the oil or oil in the water. Or it would have low compression on 1 or more cylinders.

A blown HG might not exhibit any of those symptoms, and sometimes just heats up the coolent enough to have it boil over on a regular basis.

 

[Autobodypro_1]

70 mm

70 mm too big? Absolute rubbish! It seems to me you forgot to set you tpi voltage when you swapped it off the stock T-B. That voltage adjustment has everything in the world to do with idle speed,quality and throttle response. You will need a digital voltmeter to set the voltage at the green wire to around .9v. I haven't done it in quite a while so you have to search elsewhere in these forums for the correct procedure. BTW, did you port match the 70mm to the egr plate and intake?

 

[proxses]

So a buddy of mine gave me this stuff for free off his 91 5.0 that he's selling. I have a rebuilt 89 5.0 w/o MAF. I put all this on, and the motor revved high as crap, so I backed off the timing, and backed out the idle screw. I drove it home like this because it was dark and we were wrapping up for the night.

I noticed the motor has lost a lot of power, but I also remember that vaccum line to the EGR that I broke.

I'm thinking this a speed density car that is very sensitive to vacuum leaks.
Make sure you have no vacuum leaks. They are the bane of the SD car.
The 70mm TB is not too big, and even the lip the you get in the intake is not bad. Could be better, but not bad.
Double check your timing (10-14), put whatever TB you want on there (set TPS to .98v), and make sure you have NO vacuum leaks.

 

[5spd GT]

Pull the TB off and put your stock one back on, reset your timing, and set your TP sensor because you messed with the idle screw. Then fix that vacuum leak and you car will be faster.

Then unhook your battery for 20 minutes or so to reset it.

Exactly...

 

[Rick's Fords]

It actually turned out that my TPS was broken, the two tits inside were broken off, so it wasn't responding to the TB butterfly opening, and we all know that means all air no fuel.

The TB and the EGR spacer are 70 MM, and it's still the stock intake. I set the timing to 14 degrees yesterday, and will be swapping my rear end out for one that has 3.73's today. The motor is running much better, just idleing at 1250. My idle screw is no longer in the picture though, so I can' turn it down any more.

 

[Autobodypro_1]

Your car should idle lower than that my friend. Make sure your buddy didn't "modify" the T-B by drilling a hole in the butterfly or something like that, also make sure the butterfly is NOT bent. I got a cam in mine and I can get it down to 600 rpm if I want to. Also make sure the cable has some slack in it and set the idle speed with the AIC valve unplugged. HTH