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8.8" axle/w housing in a '65

  • Thread starter Thread starter Zooted_plus
  • Start date Start date Apr 6, 2009

Zooted_plus

New Member
Jan 14, 2003
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0
Dublin, CA
Apr 6, 2009
#1
  • Apr 6, 2009
  • #1
I have a '65 I'm swapping the 8" for an 8.8. The housings are within a few inches of eachother, which could be offset by wheels... but if I'm going to mini-tub the back , I think I will need to shorten the housing accodringly.. correct?


I've read a thread by Mustangman70 about swapping an 8.8".. don't think it applied to my application thogh. If anyone has any pointers it'd be appreciated. I understand I have to relocate the spring perches if I'm going to go with a leaf-sprung rear end... as well as a custom made driveshaft. it's still up in the air right now (literally)
 
B

Blado

New Member
Mar 22, 2008
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Apr 6, 2009
#2
  • Apr 6, 2009
  • #2
I have an 8.8 from a 88 GT I am putting in my 66. They are 2 inches wider, so I understand I will be using a 5.75 inch backspaced wheel. This fella did the swap and it worked out great. Have a view of this:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2400202
 
6

66Runt

Member
Jun 11, 2005
680
2
18
Apr 6, 2009
#3
  • Apr 6, 2009
  • #3
If you are keeping the same engine & transmission, there are a few short cuts you can use. I need to update that page.
1). Place the stock rear, and the 8.8" housing on a pair of level saw horses
2). Take all your measurements off the stock rear end (including pinion angle)
3). Then tack the perches in place, based on the measurements of the stock rear end. There should be room for both differentials on the same saw horses, so you can duplicate the measurements exactly.
4). Make short 1" long welds, and alternate from one perch to the other. The axle tubes are thin and can warp with too much heat.
Hey, I just noticed you are over the hill from me (Tracy). You are welcome to stop by and see what I did, if it would help. If you want, drop me a PM.
Hth,
 
V

v8only

Active Member
Jul 3, 2003
2,378
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Apr 9, 2009
#4
  • Apr 9, 2009
  • #4
66 runt, great info!!!

I checked out your site, and it seems that you now advise to do them on a bench so to speak rather than go through all the trouble of mocking them up under the car?? that would be easiest, as I could take them to a friends house to weld up.

also, what spring perches did you use?? I see 3" spring perches on summitracing, will those work? Thanks!
 
6

66Runt

Member
Jun 11, 2005
680
2
18
Apr 9, 2009
#5
  • Apr 9, 2009
  • #5
v8only said:
66 runt, great info!!!

I checked out your site, and it seems that you now advise to do them on a bench so to speak rather than go through all the trouble of mocking them up under the car?? that would be easiest, as I could take them to a friends house to weld up.

also, what spring perches did you use?? I see 3" spring perches on summitracing, will those work? Thanks!
Click to expand...

What I have found is that if the car is all ready a good driver and the only update is swapping the rear, then duplicating what is all ready on the car, is a great way to go.
If other mods have been done and not road tested, or the car can not be driven before making the swap, then it is a good idea to check all the measurements.
3" perches work fine. The axle tube just needs to be centered on each perch when tack welding. U-bolts need to match the axle tube, so for a Fox with 2-7/8" O.D. tubes, the correct U-bolts are 2-7/8".
Hth,

Scott
 
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