Good morning,
I will be changing the rear gears in my 87 to 3.55s in the near future.
I will be doing the work myself.
I have not done this work before but have a mechanical background and am confident I can get it set up correctly.
My question is, is it necessary to replace all of the bearings when I do the gear change? My car has 60k original miles and the rear is quiet, no leaks except the pinion seal, which will be replaced and I'll sleeve the flange if its grooved.
Will I be able to press off and on the pinion bearing without damaging it? I do have a 20 ton shop press.
I would think using the frpp gears and reusing the existing bearings and shims that possibly no adjustments will be necessary, of course I'll check, I have a dial indicator to check backlash, just have to buy a magnetic mount for it. I do need to buy a beam style torque wrench and pinion holder (or make one) to check pinion preload and to crush the crush sleeve when tightening the pinion nut.
My car sees 500 miles per year tops and the rear is in good shape/quiet.
So, I figure no need to spend extra money and may make it easier to set up or possibly no shim adjustments necessary if I keep everything as is and just change the ring and pinion.
Any helps thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Greg
I will be changing the rear gears in my 87 to 3.55s in the near future.
I will be doing the work myself.
I have not done this work before but have a mechanical background and am confident I can get it set up correctly.
My question is, is it necessary to replace all of the bearings when I do the gear change? My car has 60k original miles and the rear is quiet, no leaks except the pinion seal, which will be replaced and I'll sleeve the flange if its grooved.
Will I be able to press off and on the pinion bearing without damaging it? I do have a 20 ton shop press.
I would think using the frpp gears and reusing the existing bearings and shims that possibly no adjustments will be necessary, of course I'll check, I have a dial indicator to check backlash, just have to buy a magnetic mount for it. I do need to buy a beam style torque wrench and pinion holder (or make one) to check pinion preload and to crush the crush sleeve when tightening the pinion nut.
My car sees 500 miles per year tops and the rear is in good shape/quiet.
So, I figure no need to spend extra money and may make it easier to set up or possibly no shim adjustments necessary if I keep everything as is and just change the ring and pinion.
Any helps thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Greg