8.8 upper control arm bushing removing from axle housing??'S
- Thread starter Sevan
- Start date
Take a drill with a 3/8" bit and swiss cheese the crap out of the rubber in them. To the point where the round part in the middle, along with the rest of the rubber, will fall out.
Then I take a chisel and on the side with no lip, knock the ends inward all the way around.. so it looks like the metal housing for the bushing is collapsing inward. Then on the other side where the lip is, use a dull chisel or something similar against that lip, and a mallot or hammer and whack em out... if you want you can put a little heat to the axle ears where the bushings go through... might loosen it up some... then knock em out.
Then I take a chisel and on the side with no lip, knock the ends inward all the way around.. so it looks like the metal housing for the bushing is collapsing inward. Then on the other side where the lip is, use a dull chisel or something similar against that lip, and a mallot or hammer and whack em out... if you want you can put a little heat to the axle ears where the bushings go through... might loosen it up some... then knock em out.
millhouse
Founding Member
Yep, I used the 3/8" drill bit and it worked great. It only took a couple minutes per bushing. If you drill a couple of holes around the bushing, bumping the drill against the sleeve, the drill will walk itself around the bushing popping it out rather quickly.
As far as the steel sleeve goes, most aftermarket bushings use the stock steel sleeve, so your probably going to need to leave it be.
As far as the steel sleeve goes, most aftermarket bushings use the stock steel sleeve, so your probably going to need to leave it be.
89CopCoupe
Banned
89MustangGX
I have nothing productive to add!
I didn't think to drill back when I did mine, so I went at them with a various implements of destruction like chisels and hammers, etc. and eventually got them out. I strongly reccomend any other way than the way I did it.
retro50
New Member
The drill idea works great. That is how I did it. As far as whacking the bushings with a hammer. You have to be careful that you don't break off the ear on the axle housing. If you do this the rear end is junk.
Hey guys how can poly bushings on both ends F. up your torque boxes. This is the first I have heard of this. I have a rear end thats going under the car in about a week and i put poly's in it and have D&D upper & lowers so that would be poly and poly. Can someone please help me out. I will hopefully be running slicks in a month or so and I dont want to F. up my unibody.
Also, if anybody has control arms w/ poly's what kind of grease do you use on them. I would think regular grease would eat away the poly.
Thanks for your help in advance...
Also, if anybody has control arms w/ poly's what kind of grease do you use on them. I would think regular grease would eat away the poly.
Thanks for your help in advance...
89CopCoupe
Banned
They put rubber bushings in the setup so that the axle can flex when loaded. When you apply power to the rear-end it rolls forward. Poly bushings are good everywhere else, but when they are in the diff ears they cause binding (too stiff) and it transfers more energy/stress into the torque boxes.
In low-power cars its not such an issue as high-horse cars. If the torque boxes are well reinforced they can handle more stress load, but then you end up applying more energy to the tires and it starts to become a traction issue.
In low-power cars its not such an issue as high-horse cars. If the torque boxes are well reinforced they can handle more stress load, but then you end up applying more energy to the tires and it starts to become a traction issue.
fivemustangs
Member
I know this is a very old thread but I wanted to give my 2 cents, I was searching how to remove my bushings from my 91 GT and it was either burn them out of beat them out. I thought there must be an easier way so I went to my local parts store and rented a Ball joint press and with the help of an inpact gun I had them out in about 20 minutes. Bought new bushings online for 16 bucks and will do the same to press them back in. And unlike the MM tool I will get all my money back after I am done using the press.
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