80mm C&L MAF meter

Batterystang

Founding Member
Jun 11, 2002
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North Carolina
Okay here is the deal. With the meter plugged in, the car will start up, but hesitate and is not driveable. Unplugged it runs, but extremely rich which makes sense. I have tried 2 NEW sensors for an 89 Mustang. The computer is an A9L. What sensor do I need to make it work?

The sensor originally on it worked fine, but replaced when fixing idle problems. Is there any different type of MAF sensors that I could try out? The meter has the correct tube in it for 42lb injectors so that isnt the problem.
 
luckythirteen13 said:
you can try clocking it but i wouldnt run a c&l with my 42's. when i went from 24's to 42's i bought a pro-m. do you have a sc? the c&l's arent very good for sc motors

Funny you should say that since C&L is the only brand Vortech sells for their superchargers :rolleyes:

Stepping up to 42lb injectors is a very large step from the factory settings. It's been my experience that just using a maf and 42lb injectors is not enough to get a car to run right (even if using pro-m). 42lb injectors create a "hard start and idle" syndrome most of the time and require a tune to correct. This is why programmers like PMS have a special setting to encorperate 42lb injector fixes but not nearly the same amount of settings for the smaller injector sizes.
 
I talked to C&L and they said a stock MAF Sensor is what they use. So figuring I have the right sensor for an 89 and have the correct tube for 42lbers I should have no problem.

I have a twin turbo kit on that ran great before!

Any other suggestions on this sensor?
 
There are two sensors - one for a 55mm & the other for a 70mm - they are marked AFH55 or AFH70. It's likely that you got the correct sensor. It's weird that the original sensor worked but the replacements don't (if I understand you correctly) - reminds me of how I decided I'd put a nice new Autozone ACT sensor and how it failed open within one week. I cleaned up my 19 year old sensor and it has no issues with the 190F air coming out of my supercharger.

What sort of inlet system do you have - the C&L's are flowed using the stock airbox. If you use a cold air kit with an elbow in front of it, you will likely have issues - sometimes rotating the meter so the sensor is into the airstream aligned with the outer diameter of the elbow will help. I am using a cone filter which totally changes the airflow characteristic - but I'm using a Tweecer which allows me to optimize my MAF transfer. I don't know if your turbo set-up uses the meter in a blow-through arrangement, but I'm sure you get the drift of my post. Anything different with the system the meter was designed for affect calibration. The old ProM sold meters for blow-through, cone filter, stock box, etc... It's amazing how many times I have tried to explain how MAF meters work as part of a system.
 
What sort of inlet system do you have - the C&L's are flowed using the stock airbox. If you use a cold air kit with an elbow in front of it, you will likely have issues - sometimes rotating the meter so the sensor is into the airstream aligned with the outer diameter of the elbow will help. I am using a cone filter which totally changes the airflow characteristic - .

Just wanted to say that worked for me ^^^ CLocking the MAF so that the module is basically verticle (closer to the alternator or supercharger) instead of the stock position of horizontal.
 
I also had trouble with the C&L . I was unaware , Like cougar 5.0mentioned , That the C&L's are flowed using the stock air box . I had a MAC CAI with the conical filter in the engine bay and my car had a bad hesitation and ran rich as hell . I simply switched to the factory airbox , car ran beautiful .
 
The C&L uses a poor sampling design, which is why it sometimes needs to be 'clocked'

Make sure the first couple of digits on the new sensor are the same as the old original sensor.
They should be F1ZF, I think. I will have to double check when I get home...


jason