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84 Mustang. Charging System

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jordon
  • Start date Start date Oct 6, 2017
J

Jordon

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Oct 6, 2017
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Oct 6, 2017
#1
  • Oct 6, 2017
  • #1
i am building a 84 mustang with a bored and stroked 351w. I relocated the battery to the truck. I used the factory wires for the alternator coming out of my msd box. It is the stock alternator. I hooked everything up and it isn’t charging my battery. I have the positive going to the solenoid and the ground is grounded in the trunk. I’m at a loss. Someone please help!!
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#2
  • Oct 9, 2017
  • #2
@jrichker has an excellent writeup on the trunk mounted battery wiring, he will chime in after while, he is invaluable here.
I could not find it in the tech/how to stickies, it should be there.
 

jrichker

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#3
  • Oct 9, 2017
  • #3
As recommended...

Rear mounted battery wiring recommendations

For a battery cut off switch, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.

Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.

There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.

Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.

The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.

Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire. Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs. Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.

How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.

The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.



Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.


One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.



The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green wires have a high quality ground..

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
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#4
  • Oct 9, 2017
  • #4
Thanks @jrichker, you think we could get this into the tech/how to threads?
 

jrichker

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#5
  • Oct 10, 2017
  • #5
karthief said:
Thanks @jrichker, you think we could get this into the tech/how to threads?
Click to expand...
I'm open to it, check with the Noobz347... However, it doesn't have any front facing machine guns associated with it,
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,876
10,544
203
polk county florida
Oct 10, 2017
#6
  • Oct 10, 2017
  • #6
I can fix that
 
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