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'87 GT alternator question

  • Thread starter Thread starter 3024V
  • Start date Start date Feb 21, 2006
3

3024V

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May 13, 2000
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NIAGARA FALLS, N.Y.
Feb 21, 2006
#1
  • Feb 21, 2006
  • #1
What causes the alternator (amp meter) reading to drop when the fan is turned to the highest setting. It does recover, but not to it's original setting. This happens whether the selector knob is in the heat/cold/ or air conditioning. A new battery does not change this. Turning on the fog lights causes the same effect. Is the factory wiring undersized? Thanks in advance.
 

jrichker

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Feb 21, 2006
#2
  • Feb 21, 2006
  • #2
The alternator can't keep up with the current demand.

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

The fix is a 3G alternator upgrade.

Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.

Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.
 

HISSIN50

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Nov 29, 1999
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Feb 21, 2006
#3
  • Feb 21, 2006
  • #3
Jrichker's info above will have you all set.

Add heat shrink to the list if you dont have any big pieces, and get two packages of ring terminals if you make your own ground cable too (that's 6 rings needed for both cables if the positive cable is fused and uses ring terminals).

Good luck.
 
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