'88 306ci missing badly

KcMstang

Founding Member
Mar 26, 2001
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Hamilton, Georgia
I've put in new sparkplugs, MSD 8.5 wires w/ cap & rotor, MSD ignition coil, and still getting a bad miss. It happens all through the RPMs. I've checked the MAF and it is calibrated for the 24# injectors on the car so that wasn't the problem. Should I upgrade to the MSD ignition box? Where else should I start looking to fix the miss??? Could a bad ground cause a miss?

Appreciate the help!

I would pull the codes but I don't have a voltmeter!
 
You don't need a voltmeter to pull codes on an 88. All you need is a test lamp. You use the test lamp just like the voltmeter.

I would avoid the May Suddenly Die box. They seem to have their own set of problems.

You have a possible TFI problem, pull it and have it tested. Most larger auto parts stores can do it for free. If it only misses when the engine is warm, use a hair dryer to heat it when it is tested.

Bad grounds could cause a miss. Checking them is a good idea on an older car that has changed owners several times.

Grounds are important to any electrical system, and especially to
computers.

1.) The main power ground is from engine block to battery: it is
the power ground for the starter & alternator.

2.) The secondary power ground is between the back of the
intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or
loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor
clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs
a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis
ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side
with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side
handles just a much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.

Picture courtesy timewarped1972
ground.webp


3.) The computer has its own dedicated power ground that
comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to
it's proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid
fumes from the battery. It is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long
by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire. You'll find it up next to
the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness


4.) All the sensors have a common separate ground. This
includes the TPS, ACT, EGE, BAP, & VSS sensors.

5.) The O2 sensor heaters have their own ground (HEGO ground)
coming from the computer. This is different and separate from
the O2 sensor ground. It is an orange wire with a ring terminal
on it. It is located in the fuel injector wiring harness and comes out
under the throttle body. It gets connected to a manifold or bolt on
back of the cylinder head.

6.) The TFI module has 2 grounds: one for the foil shield around
the wires and another for the module itself. The TFI module
ground terminates inside the computer.

7.) The computer takes the shield ground for the TFI module and
runs it from pin 20 to the chassis near the computer.

8.) The computer's main power ground (the one that comes from
the battery ground wire) uses pins 40 & 60 for all the things it
controls internally.

See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103#volt
for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds

Extra grounds are like the reserve parachute for a sky diver.
If the main one fails, there is always your reserve.

The best plan is to have all the grounds meet at one central spot
and connect together there. That eliminates any voltage drops
from grounds connected at different places. A voltage drop
between the computer ground and the alternator power ground will effectively
reduce the voltage available to the computer by the amount of the drop.
 

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So I can get the codes pulled @ an auto parts store? I have to head up to advance after work anyways to get some codes pulled on friend's '97 Explorer will let them do the stang also. What does TFI stand for???

Thanks for the help!
 
TFI = Thick Film Ignition module. It takes the signals from the distributor PIP magnetic sensor and the computer and uses them to tell when to fire the ignition coil.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

attachment.php


See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
 
Do I have to remove the TFI to have it tested or can I just take my car down there? The car misses when it is cold and hot. It is pretty much a constant miss except at really low speeds. It I try to accelerate quickly I will usually get a big miss or cruisin` @ 70mph!
 
I called Advance and they said they can test the TFI module but it has to be off the car. Planning on driving up there after work and removing real quick then get it tested. Hopefully that will be the problem so I can get the car running smoothly! Also going to start checking all the ground this weekend. Appreciate all the help once again.