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88 gt 5.0 cutting out need help please!

  • Thread starter Thread starter FoxRacer045
  • Start date Start date Aug 16, 2008

FoxRacer045

Member
Aug 16, 2008
52
0
6
Whitewright
Aug 16, 2008
#1
  • Aug 16, 2008
  • #1
Well im a newb on here! I have a 1988 gt with a rebuilt 5.0 with msd billit distributer msd blaster coil! When i first start driving it, no problem after awhile it cuts out and pops! I have replaced dis cap, plugs wires, plugs, dis rotor, fuel filter! It might be the timing but we used a timing light and its all good! When i stomp it it gets up but when i just cruise about 1200 to 1500 rpms it cuts ot bad! Could it be the distributer? its pretty new! maybe the o2 censors? map censor? Any thing? Let me know thanks! I really need some guys im stumped! Thanks to anyone that has any ideas!!!

Shane
 

jrichker

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Aug 16, 2008
#2
  • Aug 16, 2008
  • #2
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

Do not jumper anything to the single dark brown connector. It is the power for the under the hood light. It is in another bundle of wires near the windshield wiper.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
 

68stang351

Founding Member
May 16, 2002
850
9
39
Savoy TX
Aug 18, 2008
#3
  • Aug 18, 2008
  • #3
bump

Did you read the codes?

Any other suggestions guys?
 

FoxRacer045

Member
Aug 16, 2008
52
0
6
Whitewright
Aug 30, 2008
#4
  • Aug 30, 2008
  • #4
It ended up being the throttle body was ****!! Its f'd up just ordered a 70mm from summit!!
 
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