88 Gt Dies After 1 Min Running. Restarts Several Times.

TommyD

New Member
Aug 31, 2016
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Hi all:

I have an 88 GT 5.0 with a vortech s-trim supercharger, E303 cam, and many other bolt ons.

The car has been very reliable for the 9 years I've owned it.

It was recently in the body shop for almost 10 months and I just got the car back. It ran perfect before it went to the shop and now I'm having an issue with it stalling after running for about a minute.

The car starts right up cold. It runs for about a minute, then instantly dies (no sputtering). Seems electrical. If I give it gas as it dies it will barely sputter until I let off the gas. The car will restart instantly and will do the same thing about a minute later. If I keep trying to restart it, after about the 3rd of 4th time it will just keep cranking. I'll let it sit for a few minutes then it will fire right back up.

I tried to see if any codes were present but I did not come up with any (it was also my first time pulling codes so I believe I did it correctly following other posts I found but could have been doing something wrong. I was using a digital multimeter which I assumed would work ok to see the voltage spike?)

When the car dies, I can still hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds so I don't believe it's a fuel delivery issue. I tried sitting in the car and holding it at 2500rpm to see if it dies and it still does every time.

The only thing I noticed when doing this was right before the car died, my autometer aftermarket tach showed the RPM's jump to about 3000 and then move a bit, then the car cut out. The stock RPM gauge did not do this. I didn't install the tach, but I assume it is getting the signal directly from the blaster coil.

After doing some digging on the forums it appears it could either be the TFI module, PIP sensor, or coil.

Others mentioned similar problems happening with a bag ignition switch/bag ground/bad wires/bag plugs/bad distributor cap and rotor, etc. But if I had any of these problems I would believe it would be hard to start every time, and not fire up when cold or semi/cold consistently. True?

I think best clue I've found so far is the RPM "jump" on the tach right before it dies. Does that indicate the TFI is telling the coil wrong info? Or does not mean the coil is bad?

I found a link to test the different pins of the TFI for resistance, but haven't tried it yet. I figured if I was going to remove it to test it I should have a replacement in hand so I'm about to go get one from the parts store.

http://www.myo-p.com/Ford-EEC/EEC Help files/Files/TFI test and troubleshooting.html

It also seems like when the PIP sensor is bad, it is bad all the time not intermittently. Am I understanding that correctly?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Tom
 
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Digital multimeter may not be responsive enough to show you the proper code readings, or have enough resistance to trip the computer into spitting them out.

First step is codes. Just invest the $30 or so for an innova 3145 code reader. It's a tool you will always use on these cars. A Google search will provide you with many vendors.

It sure beats guessing


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Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

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If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

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The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

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The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
4




Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader 3145.
It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.
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If you dump the codes and don't get anything not even a code 11, you have other problems. No code 11 (two flashes when the computer dumps the codes)? A perfectly functioning system will always get a code 11, it is the everything is OK code. The 11 code is computer passed its internal self test.
If you don't get an 11, you have computer or wiring problems.
Please check and repost.
 
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I quickly searched the 81/82 codes and someone made reference to some solenoids on the rear passenger shock tower?

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