I will keep you informed as I build the 1st one. Once I get past my two items left on the list I can put it in the car for a testing phase.Then sell me one. not kidding
Calling @a91what....
I need help with the power supply circuit that I am trying to put together I am going to use two components to build my power supply including a Timer Relay and DC-to-DC Power Converter. I want to use the car's 12V ACC (ignition) wire to activate/deactivate the power supply, but also use the same wire to tell the RPi to shutdown once the ignition is turned off over a delayed period of time. The RPi GPIO Pin can't accept the car's 12V power directly and needs to be reduced to an acceptable a 3.3V.
What is the best/safest way to convert the car's 12V ACC (ignition) to 3V for the RPi's GPIO pin?
I wish I could, but one is not MS. It is a completely stock so not way to get a datalog. I have been spoiled with the MS as it makes it a little more work to identify issuesdatalog...... so i can help look at stuff.
I will probably do that as well. At least it has pressure at the rail now then like before it just dribbled with Little to no pressure.well thats no good.... you could do a fuel pressure check and make sure it is holding pressure on the rail.
I am keeping it simple and using a voltage regulator for reducing the 12V ignition supply to the needed 3.3V to the GPIO pin of the RPi to sensor if the ignition is on or off. This setup will be used to auto shutdown the RPi after a set time delay of the ignition being turned off.@Noobz347
@stanglx2002
DC to DC converter is doing it the hard way and is definitely overkill. The LM series of voltage regulators will do everything you want at the cost of less than $2. The TO92 package voltage regulators will easily fit inside a piece of 1/4" heat shrink tubing along with a couple of capacitors and an inductor. This is needed to filter the electrical noise that fills the automotive electrical system of all automobiles.
See https://www.mouser.com/Semiconducto...egulators/_/N-5cgac?P=1z0wa2eZ1z0y3jsZ1z0z63x and take your choice.
The electrical system of an automobile is home to 40KV pulses radiating from the ignition system, electrical motors that power the ventilation system, along with power windows, windshield wipers, power seats and all sorts of other things. Then you realize that the 12-14 volts that powers all this stuff is absolutely nasty with all sorts of electrical noise. The inductive spikes and surges that flow through the car's power buses are capable corrupting or destroying any poorly designed or unprotected electronic device.
You may want to consider an offline sanity check of what you are doing; PM me and let's talk.
Still that is not the best route. The same type of 3 terminal voltage regulator will provide 5 volts.I am keeping it simple and using a voltage regulator for reducing the 12V ignition supply to the needed 3.3V to the GPIO pin of the RPi to sensor if the ignition is on or off. This setup will be used to auto shutdown the RPi after a set time delay of the ignition being turned off.
I will be using a DC to DC convertor for the actual power supply to the RPi sense it uses a 5V and up to 3A.
I was finally able to get a picture of the goodies I got at the pull-a-parts.Still waiting on my parts to get in, but was able to get to the local Pull-A-Parts. They had a 1990 Foxbody there, but was gone by the time I got there which sucked. There were 2 Crown Vic's so I pulled a spare distributor that I will rebuild and put on the shelf as a spare. I also got some additional plugs for a future project of building a new engine wiring harness, so I got the 60-pin computer plug, TFI module plug, Coil plug, and IAC Valve. Couldn't find the TPS as they were both gone already.
Getting ready for the new upgrades requires me to get my other mustang back up and running. It sat for 5 years, so I am trying to go through it. Currently have an issue with it wanting to start and stay running. I drove it to my house but died out of the blue as soon as it was pulled into the driveway and wouldn't restart. Thank goodness it died at the house and not on the road. I replaced the fuel filter thinking it was clogged, but it didn't fix it. Checked the shrader valve and fuel dribbled out with not pressure, so I replaced the fuel pump yesterday. I primed the system and fuel pressure was back at the fuel rail.
Issue now, If I prime the system a couple times it will cough and maybe start, but will not stay running. If it does start and you give it gas it immediately dies. I only put 2-3 gallons of gas in it, so it may be just "low" on gas. I will put more in it and fingers crossed it fixes the issue.
Like I said, I think everything you're doing with your cluster is far and beyond what 99% here are capable of. Especially from scratch. I'd be thrilled just to able to connect an iPad to the damn ecu for tuning processes.
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