so im working on tearing my car down for paint.. and ran into something I cant figure out and don't wanna break anything.. Im tearing the doors down and my exterior window felt is just gone... 1. anyone know where to get new ones? also there is a metal round molding directly below the window felt, anyone know how to get that off, I cant figure out how.
Paint and Body 89 Gt Help
- Thread starter tomcamaro97
- Start date
LMR has all sorts of do it yourself videos and will sell you what you need. That's Late Model Restoration, btw.
Are these what you're asking about? If so here's the new ones. You can simply drill out the rivets to remove the old round door belt molding hardware.
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-21452PR/87-93-Mustang-Outer-Door-Belt-Weatherstrip-Pair,
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-20934HDW/1987-93-Mustang-Outer-Door-Belt-Molding-Hardware-Kit
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-21452PR/87-93-Mustang-Outer-Door-Belt-Weatherstrip-Pair,
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-20934HDW/1987-93-Mustang-Outer-Door-Belt-Molding-Hardware-Kit
thanks guys yep, i went to LMR they had exactly what i needed at a good price ... and new door moldings , and new body kit hardware that i also needed...
another day or two and ill have the car completely dissasembled and be on to the body work, not that it needs much, then on to paint... cant wait to turn this ugly duckling back into the muscle car it belongs to be.
another day or two and ill have the car completely dissasembled and be on to the body work, not that it needs much, then on to paint... cant wait to turn this ugly duckling back into the muscle car it belongs to be.
What color are you going with? Any pictures of the progress? Maybe a before and after. We all love seeing these transformations. Good luck on your project.
here it is as it sat before dissasembly. Nice aftermarket hood. Rear hatch was replaced with a 100% rust free blue one. and someone rattle canned the entire lower half of the car black, i assumed they were trying to hide rust, but nope, aside from two little spots in the corners of the floor pans the car is pretty much rust free FL car that somehow made it up here to WI. Ive got a nice set of Chrome Cobra Rims thatll go on after the paint job.. Its going back to 100% white.. i think white looks killer on these cars, very "crisp". ive spent all winter repairing the interior/ electrical/ and mechanical mess.. its pretty much 100% stock now, aside form an intake/exhaust. ill get some pictures up after the paint job,
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so im about 90% done with my body work and paint prep... just one dent that needs a bit more filler to be smooth.. i tell ya 25 years of dings and chips add up... ive had to touch every panel on the body.. just litttle stuff but it sure takes time to get it all right... that brings me to my next question for help...
the jack ass who destroyed this thing before me had the lovely idea of putting red electrical tape in the gap of the side moldings.. obviously thats all been removed but im having a hard time getting the glue off , any tips?? i used one of those rubber wheels to get the bulk of it off but its still in the corners and hard to get at spots, any products/paint thinner/ etc that might work good for this?
the jack ass who destroyed this thing before me had the lovely idea of putting red electrical tape in the gap of the side moldings.. obviously thats all been removed but im having a hard time getting the glue off , any tips?? i used one of those rubber wheels to get the bulk of it off but its still in the corners and hard to get at spots, any products/paint thinner/ etc that might work good for this?
Use laquer thinner. Try rubbing a small area down low on your car to see if it take paint off first.
Though you are going to paint it anyhow, why give yourself more work if you don't need to?
If it's real thick try slicing it down a little with a razor blade. So the stripe removal wheel wouldn't take that off, huh?
good call , ill give laquor thinner a try, ive got a bottle.
im still painting it, paint/clear/primer is all purchased and ready to be sprayed once im done with prep. I acutally baught brand new door moldings, but figured that was an easy way to explain it, theres that spot on the bumpers/body kit that lines up with um. its like a highlight line in the moldings. he literally put red electrical tape all the way around the car in there.(see pic above) I got all the tape off , but if i dont get the glue up too , im sure the paint will look bad.
my buddy who paints for a living is coming over tomorrow to check progress, and hopefully by the 9th-10th ill be posting some pics of my new paint job.
im still painting it, paint/clear/primer is all purchased and ready to be sprayed once im done with prep. I acutally baught brand new door moldings, but figured that was an easy way to explain it, theres that spot on the bumpers/body kit that lines up with um. its like a highlight line in the moldings. he literally put red electrical tape all the way around the car in there.(see pic above) I got all the tape off , but if i dont get the glue up too , im sure the paint will look bad.
my buddy who paints for a living is coming over tomorrow to check progress, and hopefully by the 9th-10th ill be posting some pics of my new paint job.
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter 
I bought one of those for my passenger door from LRS and it was just not very good quality so I ended up buying an NOS piece.
Maybe Dave can debunk this but I've had good luck in the past with charcoal lighter fluid to get through stuff like that.
lighter fluid will work, leaves a residue the paint could absorb though, possibly causing problems in the refinish. Probably not, but could.
Acetone works as well, it's not as aggressive as the lacquer thinner, better if the paint will come off easily with the thinner.
Wax and grease remover will soften it enough for removal, but you have to keep it wet for a bit.
Generally speaking, I use lacquer thinner for most cases.
Acetone works as well, it's not as aggressive as the lacquer thinner, better if the paint will come off easily with the thinner.
Wax and grease remover will soften it enough for removal, but you have to keep it wet for a bit.
Generally speaking, I use lacquer thinner for most cases.
so laquor thinnner and a scotch bright pad did the trick..all the glue came off.. my buddy agrees that im ready for paint..
i have one question for "dave" or any other painters so that i dont end up with a crappy paint job.. as i forgot to mention it to my buddie, and dont wanna stick him with the task of removing this if it needs to come off...
So in addition to any number of rediculous things done to this car, they rattle canned the bottom half that was silver.. with black. at this point there was only black left on the body kit, as general sanding took it off the doors and front bumper for the most part. so if i sanded hard enough with a scotch bright pad, or used laquor thinner, it took the black off and left the original silver.. do i need to get this black removed all the way around.. or as long as its scuffed and smooth, the new paint/primer etc will stick no problem?
Also we already know to not "cook" the body kit in the booth as they are prone to shrinkage.
i have one question for "dave" or any other painters so that i dont end up with a crappy paint job.. as i forgot to mention it to my buddie, and dont wanna stick him with the task of removing this if it needs to come off...
So in addition to any number of rediculous things done to this car, they rattle canned the bottom half that was silver.. with black. at this point there was only black left on the body kit, as general sanding took it off the doors and front bumper for the most part. so if i sanded hard enough with a scotch bright pad, or used laquor thinner, it took the black off and left the original silver.. do i need to get this black removed all the way around.. or as long as its scuffed and smooth, the new paint/primer etc will stick no problem?
Also we already know to not "cook" the body kit in the booth as they are prone to shrinkage.
i cant tell.. i know why you ask.. if they prepped it then the black is stuck well and ill be fine painting over the top...
the silver doesnt look glossy underneath, but that could just be years of wear.. the black appears to have been on there a long time, and wasnt coming off.. i wasnt even concerned about it untill i say how that laquor thinner took it off so easily.
If you can sand it smooth, it shouldn't be a big problem for you then.
Truthfully though, if you look closely, maybe with a light, you should be able to see if they scuffed it first or not.
It was one of those quicky changes that people will do to change their cars. Not necessarily a smart move, but a quick update to the looks.
What was the original color. I got to tell you, in a picture, that blue color looks nice.
Any luck with the stripes?
BTW, if you stay to a lower temperature, like 130, the mouldings will be fine during the bake cycle. Just not as cured as 160 or so.
thanks dave, wrong thread with the stripes.. I talked to my buddy and he agreed as long as its scuffed and smooth i should be good. well heres the last pic ill be posting pre-paint. it goes into the booth in a week , but the body is all ready to get sprayed.. ground effects in the trunk, just have to wait for the booth time now.
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