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89 Mustang with Novi 1000 and heads NOT RUNNING PROPERLY

  • Thread starter Thread starter brienjohnson200
  • Start date Start date Apr 25, 2011

brienjohnson200

New Member
Nov 29, 1999
16
0
2
Edmonton
Apr 25, 2011
#1
  • Apr 25, 2011
  • #1
I have a 89 mustang, novi 1000, pro comp heads, 1.7 rockers, sct chip programed by the mustang shop, edelbroke intake, lightning mass air meter. I bought the car half finished and it seems like the previous owner didnt really know what he was doing. I re-touqued heads, re-set valves and re-touqued intake. The car doesn't run worth a dam and smokes pretty bad greyish smoke. Does anyone have any ideas?
 

jrichker

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#2
  • Apr 25, 2011
  • #2
Cylinder balance test:
The computer has a cylinder balance test that helps locate cylinder with low power output. You’ll need to dump the codes out of the computer and make sure that you have the A/C off, and the transmission in neutral. Fail to do this and you can’t do the engine running dump codes test that allows you to do the cylinder balance test.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Cylinder balance test
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 9 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 2 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures.
Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure


Do a compression test on all the cylinders.
Take special note of any cylinder that shows up as weak in the cylinder balance test. Low compression on one of these cylinders rules out the injectors as being the most likely cause of the problem. Look at cylinders that fail the cylinder balance test but have good compression. These cylinders either have a bad injector, bad spark plug or spark plug wire. Move the wire and then the spark plug to another cylinder and run the cylinder balance test again. If it follows the moved wire or spark plug, you have found the problem. If the same cylinder fails the test again, the injector is bad. If different cylinders fail the cylinder balance test, you have ignition problems or wiring problems in the 10 pin black & white electrical connectors located by the EGR.

How to do a compression test:
Only use a compression tester with a screw in adapter for the spark plug hole. The other type leaks too much to get an accurate reading. Your local auto parts store may have a compression tester to rent. If you do mechanic work on your own car on a regular basis, it would be a good tool to add to your collection.

With the engine warmed up, remove all spark plugs and prop the throttle wide open, crank the engine until it the gage reading stops increasing. On a cold engine, it will be hard to tell what's good & what's not. Some of the recent posts have numbers ranging from 140-170 psi. If the compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder and do it again – if it comes up, the rings are worn. There should be no more than 10% difference between cylinders. Use a blow down leak test (puts compressed air inside cylinders) on cylinders that have more than 10% difference.

See the link to my site for details on how to build your own blow down type compression tester.
 

brienjohnson200

New Member
Nov 29, 1999
16
0
2
Edmonton
Apr 25, 2011
#3
  • Apr 25, 2011
  • #3
Thanks for the post, but the car doesn't run well enough to perform these diagnostic tests since it won't idle on its own.
 
R

raistlin77

New Member
Jul 7, 2009
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2
Apr 25, 2011
#4
  • Apr 25, 2011
  • #4
I believe you can pull the koeo codes with the engine off key on . If it checks ok i would disconnect the supercharger and see how it runs without it.
 

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000
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Apr 25, 2011
#5
  • Apr 25, 2011
  • #5
Just to dump the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) codes does not require the engine to be started. There are many possiblities that will show up as codes. Fix them first and then proceed to check the rest of the engine out.
 
B

BYRDPE

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Nov 4, 1998
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Memphis,Tn.
Apr 25, 2011
#6
  • Apr 25, 2011
  • #6
whats the timing set at?
 

brienjohnson200

New Member
Nov 29, 1999
16
0
2
Edmonton
Apr 26, 2011
#7
  • Apr 26, 2011
  • #7
I just removed the chip yesterday and it seems to work better. I re-installed the chip and it worked the same as if the chip wasn't installed. It also worked on setting 7, of which it isn't even suppose to start on that setting since it is a anti-theft setting.


Today, I went out without touching anything from yesterday and it wouldn't start on setting 7. I talked to the Mustang shop and Matt said timing should be set at 10 BTDC instead of the 0 i had it set at due to a misunderstanding. I changed it back to setting 1 (base tune) and it started and ran like **** as it was before. I changed the timing to 10 and only small change. Removed the chip and it ran better, installed the chip and it ran exact same as no chip.
 

brienjohnson200

New Member
Nov 29, 1999
16
0
2
Edmonton
May 1, 2011
#8
  • May 1, 2011
  • #8
I could get the "key on engine off codes" but couldn't get the "key on engine on codes". Nothing would come up.
 

5.0TailPipeHump

Member
Dec 5, 2006
153
0
17
May 1, 2011
#9
  • May 1, 2011
  • #9
What jrichker said, check the codes 1st brien and go from there , i see your in Edmonton, hit up a walmart or canadian tire and grab an OBD1 code reader if you haven't already.
 
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