90 Gt Vert, The Bananna Spider

You could run 86 to the starter relay battery post. The one you have is temperature adjustable so it shouldn't come on unless the temp is above the set point. However, the fan will stay on when the car is off until it gets below the set point... like a newer car.

If running a relay and a grounding temp switch the same thing will happen if pin 86 is wired to constant power.

You could tap pin 86 ( ignition ) wire to pin 30 ( source power + ) wire.

The recorded amperage draw for contour fans is only about 20amps each. I like 40amp relays and 30amp fuses. I run a separate fuse and relay for each fan.
 
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Great thanks, since I already wired a bunch I'll just wire 86 and 30 together, I'm comfortable with that. I will add individual fuses on each fan circuit. Thanks for all your help! I really appreciate it:)
 
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Thank you all for the help. Got the fan wired, relay and all, went ahead and tapped ingition source straight to the battery for this temporary install. Once I get this drivetrain back together and can road test this thing I can really find out what is working and what isin't. Then I can attack the wiring and find a more reliable and suitable source.
What are you guys doing for a Radiator overflow catch? Any slick way to save the coolant sensor?

Also, the idler pulley was super rigged, it was just bolted on with a hardwarestore bolt I got a new pulley and bolt from a sn95 at the yard but the bolt is too short. Will the entire sn95 idler arm fit on here as a replacement? My local yards have boatloads of sn95's but they crushed all the foxies when scrap was high :( sooo wrong!
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If you look real close, you can see my shift fork bushing and finger imbedded in the 1/2 slider........ Along with the rebuild kit with syncro rings i'll need a new first gear, second gear, 1/2 slider, 5th gear, shift fork, and neutral switch. Oohh Poo
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My mechanic friend Jon donated some tools, workbench, and lights on long term loan to help make it a little more comfortable to work on the car at my place. I could not be doing this without him. He is a solid guy, even if he is a bow tie fan. Today will be extracting a broke bolt from the bell housing, welding a small crack in the trans mount and repairing the dents in the trans mount bushing tubes.
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Starting to wonder if I paid too little for this car. Even the dash bezel and headlight switch has been monkeyed with....all the wiring is messed with....what do yall think I could get for this thing for parts? Engine is good.....ugh what have I done.
 
Frustration hits all if us at some point with these cars.

Around here that car could get 2.5 to 3k on the high end....solid roller territory.

At some point it mat have had the famous GT fog light issue. The headlight switch would overheat with the extra draw from the fog lights causing them to act up. A lot of people use the switch to trigger a relay that carries the load of the fog lights.

The switch and plug can be damaged. Other important spots to check are the ignition electrical switch connector and the multifunction switch connector. Look for dark pins and melted plastic.

These cars had issues in those places that caused people to do dumb :poo:

A decent t5 isn't that hard to find. Wiring is tedious but isn't rocket science.

I've had some real basket cases. If the body is solid that's really all that matters. Generally, all this stuff would be gone through or replaced anyway.

We're here to help, man. That's what we do.
 
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I think you may be right, looms like a fancy intigrated relay, repairer took the time to soder the. Cnnections then twist on some household wire nuts;). Thanks for the pep talk. Im definetly frustrated, just saw the same car with a automatic, in much better shape for sale locally not much more expensive than what I paid. That got me thinkin.
 
I think you may be right, looms like a fancy intigrated relay, repairer took the time to soder the. Cnnections then twist on some household wire nuts;). Thanks for the pep talk. Im definetly frustrated, just saw the same car with a automatic, in much better shape for sale locally not much more expensive than what I paid. That got me thinkin.
Stop think'n and get to wrench'n, although both cause headaches.
 
Took kartheif's advice....been wrench'in. Besides hand digging a 250 ft trench for replacing a shot power line to my barn and attending classes to get certified as a adoptive family, oh and buying materials for my wife's crazy tree house swing set, I also tiled and grouted our shower renovation........but to the car....
Restored the instrument cluster lens (plastic polish and spray paint overspray removal...dumbasses) and replaced the speedo cable. The previous mechanic had routed the cable along the header and obviously melted it. Drilled and tapped/helicoiled the bell housing bolt issues and installed a rear main seal, new pivot stud, clutch fork, pilot bearing ( it was seized in the crank). Reinstalled everything and got new bolts for the starter and tucked it back in. I have a new first gear and 1-2syncro slider but still need to source a second gear, and the rebuild kit before the trans can be attacked. In the mail are a trans mount, crossmember bushings, and 2 o2 sensors along with my shop repair manual on CD Rom. Not all progress tho, pulled up the carpet and the back seat floor pan is rusted thru, evidently sat outside with broken windows for a while and water collected in the rear floor and rusted it out. Thankfully not much damage at the front seat rear mounting bolts so I think that is salvageable. Oh yeah and the drivers seat base had a broken leg so I welded that up but yet to reinstall.

I have 2 questions for the community. Speaking of rust, what do you guys use for rust encapsulator/converter? Secondly, my t5 has no
tag so I'm not sure what cluster gears I have. It is a 1990 car but the trans casting says 89. Should I have the 052 cluster or the 065/068? I believe the trans to be original with the car but it had been serviced once before as evident from the missing tag, non factory sealant, and the silver foil sticker on top. I found a good deal on a second gear online but want to be sure I get the correct one.
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You've been a very busy man.

The second gear is sold by gear tooth count. Look up Hanlon motorsports. They'll help with finding the correct gear and identifying your trans. Sometimes they're prices may be a little higher on some things but I deal with them because they're a good family owned business. Their customer service has been awesome for me.

Por15 has been the best rust treatment and coating I've ever seen.
 
I've use phosphoric acid with great results for getting rid of rust. In my case all I needed to do after that was prime and paint, but the classic mustang guys swear by Master Series Silver. It's a moisture cured urethane like POR, but it's used in a wide variety of applications and has better long term results.
 
Thanks guys. I have never heard of either one of them so I'll check them out.

So sick fox are you saying the 065/068 and 052 cluster config have a different tooth count? I thoought it was just helix angle.....
 
Thanks guys. I have never heard of either one of them so I'll check them out.

So sick fox are you saying the 065/068 and 052 cluster config have a different tooth count? I thoought it was just helix angle.....

Anytime I've ordered a 2nd gear the only question is tooth count....:scratch:
 
Thegearbox.org is a good source for parts. Here's what I mean about 2nd gear tooth count....
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You may have to go to the site and search around a little. The difference in the different gear sets is usually based off of the 1st or 5th gear ratio...which is also a tooth count and a little math.
 
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