Ok, something seriously weird is going on here. At idle I am pushing 13.9 at the battery, so good. With one fan on I'm effectivly cooling the car no problem and not blowing the 30a fuse. With IAC unplugged the car dies less often, but still dies even with idle screw adjusted at 900rpm. With IAC plugged in it dies more often. The o2 sensors are new and the ground is intact. The maf has been cleaned, swapped in a 70mm A2A maf from a sn95, it was cleaned, still dies. Tps reads .92 at key on.
With IAC unplugged could get it to run for 15min before it died, with IAC plugged in only get mabe 1.5 min and it dies. Does that give anyone any ideas?
With IAC unplugged could get it to run for 15min before it died, with IAC plugged in only get mabe 1.5 min and it dies. Does that give anyone any ideas?
The easiest place to find an ignition on source is the radio wiring. If you have an aftermarket radio the colors at the radio harness would be yellow for constant power.... and red for ignition switch power. This is only true if using an aftermarket radio and harness adapter. The factory uses different colors. ( not sure what they are ). I hate cutting or tapping factory wires.
Ok, talk about bizzare. I did nothing, I mean nothing, and now its not dying. The local ford guy I know thru a friend told me to pull my spout, start it up, run it for a while, then plug the spout back in to see if it was the computer.
I pulled the spout and started it, it ran rough, tried to stumble and die once but did not. I reved it above 3500, sounded like poo but it never died.
I plugged the spout back in while running, noticeable improvement in idle smoothness and it stayed running. Cooling fan kicked on and off, no change.
Checked battery, fan on 13.99v, fan off 14.1
Pushed it slowly to just over 4500 rpms 3 times and held it for 5 seconds, stayed running.
Idled it in driveway for 45 min......no died
I did 4 burnouts in driveway, to simulate driving lol........kept running just fine.
Pulled it in garage and shut it off..........
WTF, i mean I'm happy, of course if it stated fixed, but WTF?
I pulled the spout and started it, it ran rough, tried to stumble and die once but did not. I reved it above 3500, sounded like poo but it never died.
I plugged the spout back in while running, noticeable improvement in idle smoothness and it stayed running. Cooling fan kicked on and off, no change.
Checked battery, fan on 13.99v, fan off 14.1
Pushed it slowly to just over 4500 rpms 3 times and held it for 5 seconds, stayed running.
Idled it in driveway for 45 min......no died
I did 4 burnouts in driveway, to simulate driving lol........kept running just fine.
Pulled it in garage and shut it off..........
WTF, i mean I'm happy, of course if it stated fixed, but WTF?
What rust? Finally some issues I actually know how to fix. #vertproblems
Ok so 2 questions for the community.
I am planning on doing the explorer TB swap (already have the TB and explorer intake, and eventually gt40 heads. Already did the sn95 maf swap.) but It struck me while thinking sitting on the toilet (where my best ideas come from) is there enough materal in the neck of the stock TB spacer to have my buddy with the metal lathe waller out the opening to 70mm (measuring 68.6 actually)? I love to reuse parts, hot rod style, but figured someone tried this at some point before CNC billet ebay spacers. Is there any real (not like sticker power) performance differences in the coolant vs solid TB spacers anyway?
Second question, my parking brake cable rusted and snapped, but the rear 2 cables that feed the splitter/joiner dohickey have been replaced and are in good shape. Rock auto wants an unreasonable price for this cable that is basically a wire rope with a stop cylinder at the ends. Anyone ever fabbed one of these up themselves?
Thanks
FYI I pick up my sheet metal for the floor pans today and will be beating them into shape this weekend. Excited to use my new hammer and dolly set.
I am planning on doing the explorer TB swap (already have the TB and explorer intake, and eventually gt40 heads. Already did the sn95 maf swap.) but It struck me while thinking sitting on the toilet (where my best ideas come from) is there enough materal in the neck of the stock TB spacer to have my buddy with the metal lathe waller out the opening to 70mm (measuring 68.6 actually)? I love to reuse parts, hot rod style, but figured someone tried this at some point before CNC billet ebay spacers. Is there any real (not like sticker power) performance differences in the coolant vs solid TB spacers anyway?
Second question, my parking brake cable rusted and snapped, but the rear 2 cables that feed the splitter/joiner dohickey have been replaced and are in good shape. Rock auto wants an unreasonable price for this cable that is basically a wire rope with a stop cylinder at the ends. Anyone ever fabbed one of these up themselves?
Thanks
FYI I pick up my sheet metal for the floor pans today and will be beating them into shape this weekend. Excited to use my new hammer and dolly set.
Not too bad for a weekend of work, still need to grind down some welds, and put on some seam sealer. Going to patch that seat mount hole on the passenger side with some heavier gauge material. They held my fat butt up so I feel good about the strength. I found that the cheap flux core from HF actually worked better for the thin sheet than the nicer Lincoln wire. Probably just a little colder, which in this situation, was good.
Welp, had a super productive weekend on the car. With help got the electric motor for my top rebuild and tested, hope to install this week. Got my explore intake disassembled and in the parts washer, got my factory fox throttle body spacer bored and honed to accept my explorer throttle body swap that I performed on Friday.
It is decision time. Do nothing and run stock E7 heads, port my E7 heads, run stock with new springs gt40p heads from JY (I know they have em), ported gt40p heads with springs from JY, or save up my pennies, put the car back together and wait u til I can afford (a long time most likley) aluminium heads. My goal has always been 300-350 hp. It is a vert cruser, not a race car but I would really like 1hp/cube and be able to throw down a little when a 16yr old driving a ricer wants to play with me light to light. I should also add that I am on a shoestring budget and it would likley take me a full year to save up the $ for some cheap ebay pro comp alum heads.
It is decision time. Do nothing and run stock E7 heads, port my E7 heads, run stock with new springs gt40p heads from JY (I know they have em), ported gt40p heads with springs from JY, or save up my pennies, put the car back together and wait u til I can afford (a long time most likley) aluminium heads. My goal has always been 300-350 hp. It is a vert cruser, not a race car but I would really like 1hp/cube and be able to throw down a little when a 16yr old driving a ricer wants to play with me light to light. I should also add that I am on a shoestring budget and it would likley take me a full year to save up the $ for some cheap ebay pro comp alum heads.
Yup, funds for playthings running low. You recommend p's with springs, home gasket match, or get a shop to massage em low buck?
I did this on a combo before and was quite happy with it until I was able to replace the engine. I recommend the TFS Spring Kit for the replacement, and if you are doing this yourself a gasket match and valve polishing will be a good idea.
Thanks for the feedback gang. Gonna try to be patient and find the best deal I can find, got a few parts I may throw up on the classifieds to help the cause.
The guy who does not know chit is actually going to contribute to the community! In troubleshooting my freshly rebuilt top motor I was running into an issue that the internet has not yet successfully documented in pictures. At least I could not find it.
My new top motor relays were clicking but not spinning the motor. Relays were good but I tracked down that there was a circuit breaker I needed to find under the dash somewhere. For reasons, the guy that previously molested my car had unplugged the breaker. Anyway here are pictures of the breaker location and the black and yellow wires. My top now movin' under power!
The guy who does not know chit is actually going to contribute to the community! In troubleshooting my freshly rebuilt top motor I was running into an issue that the internet has not yet successfully documented in pictures. At least I could not find it.
My new top motor relays were clicking but not spinning the motor. Relays were good but I tracked down that there was a circuit breaker I needed to find under the dash somewhere. For reasons, the guy that previously molested my car had unplugged the breaker. Anyway here are pictures of the breaker location and the black and yellow wires. My top now movin' under power!