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Paint and Body 90 LX Passenger Door Alignment/Adjustment

  • Thread starter Thread starter cturboaddict
  • Start date Start date Apr 2, 2021
C

cturboaddict

Founding Member
Jul 14, 2002
268
7
18
Collinsville, IL (Previously South Jersey)
Apr 2, 2021
#1
  • Apr 2, 2021
  • #1
I'm working through my drag car build, and while waiting on some parts, I wanted to tackle some of the body panels/alignments. Front fenders are coming off for a tube front end in the next week or so, and I noticed that the passenger door's alignment is a bit off.
The gap at the rear is really wide between the end of the door and the quarter window. You can literally see in through the door/weatherstripping to inside.
The front gap at the A pillar is very tight.
The door when closed sticks out slightly proud of the rear body panel.

Door opens and closes fine. There is no wiggle in the hinges when the doors are wide open.
Below are a few photos, (as well as some drivers side photo for reference, as it fits fairly well) my thoughts were to adjust the striker to allow the door to close a bit better, and then loosen the hinge bolts to slide the door a bit back (open up the A pillar gap). Any thoughts or direction is appreciated.



 

HemiRick

I'd be looking at jacking under the house
Jun 28, 2020
723
272
73
Memphis TN
Apr 2, 2021
#2
  • Apr 2, 2021
  • #2
Yes loosen hinge bolts and slide door.
 
Reactions: cturboaddict

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
6,945
5,816
213
Apr 2, 2021
#3
  • Apr 2, 2021
  • #3
Looks like the door striker needs to go in some.

With my hinges all the way back I still have a slight gap at the rear of both doors. I still can't see in the car or even the seal itself. A panel prying stick is great to help get the gaps even. You'll also need a jack at the back of the door. The door will have to be open about 2 inches with the jack under the bottom near the back. The door will drop when you loosen all 6 bolts. The hard part is adjusting for the hinge sag in the door. This means you have to jack it up higher in the back than where you want it. On the front of the door I used a panel popping stick to raise the front of the door.
 
Reactions: cturboaddict
C

cturboaddict

Founding Member
Jul 14, 2002
268
7
18
Collinsville, IL (Previously South Jersey)
Apr 24, 2021
#4
  • Apr 24, 2021
  • #4
90sickfox said:
Looks like the door striker needs to go in some.

With my hinges all the way back I still have a slight gap at the rear of both doors. I still can't see in the car or even the seal itself. A panel prying stick is great to help get the gaps even. You'll also need a jack at the back of the door. The door will have to be open about 2 inches with the jack under the bottom near the back. The door will drop when you loosen all 6 bolts. The hard part is adjusting for the hinge sag in the door. This means you have to jack it up higher in the back than where you want it. On the front of the door I used a panel popping stick to raise the front of the door.
Click to expand...
Don't know if I've ever heard of a "panel popping stick"? I'm getting ready to yank off the fenders anyway, Figured that's the best time to sort this out before putting on new weatherstripping.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,872
10,542
203
polk county florida
Apr 24, 2021
#5
  • Apr 24, 2021
  • #5
Amazon.com : plastic trim removal tools
 
Reactions: 90sickfox and cturboaddict
C

cturboaddict

Founding Member
Jul 14, 2002
268
7
18
Collinsville, IL (Previously South Jersey)
Apr 25, 2021
#6
  • Apr 25, 2021
  • #6
General karthief said:
Amazon.com : plastic trim removal tools
Click to expand...
Oh I've got tons of those. LOL, thanks for clarification.
 
M

Monkeybutt2000

Mustang Master
Aug 11, 2019
1,387
849
133
Lafayette,IN
Apr 25, 2021
#7
  • Apr 25, 2021
  • #7
Loosen the hinge to body bolts just enough so that when you use a drift and a hammer,you can monitor how far each hinge moves. If you want to match the drivers side gap, unless you have a taper gauge or flat mm gauge you'll have to come up with something on your own. I've got lot's of tricks as I do this daily at my job.
 
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