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92 Lx 5.0 Engine Chokes At 3500 Rpm

  • Thread starter Thread starter mleg
  • Start date Start date Aug 23, 2017
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mleg

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Aug 23, 2017
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Aug 23, 2017
#1
  • Aug 23, 2017
  • #1
My 92 LX Auto 5.0 would not start. A9P computer was sent away to be repaired and when it came back runs fine except when it hits 3500 RPM's and above. Feels like it is coughing, choking, just plain cutting out. Any gear or just sitting still. Can there still be a problem with the computer? Plugs have been changed along with the cap, rotor button, plug wires, fuel filter etc. Never did this before in my 25 years before the computer was sent away. Car is a convertible with only 16000. miles on it and it looks brand new. Tired of this problem and just trying to find out if there could be a problem with the rebuilt A9P computer. I know I received mind back, because we marked it. Any helpers out there?????? Thanks.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#2
  • Aug 23, 2017
  • #2
I'm gonna guess you have not checked for codes, there is a thread in the tech/how to section, it will show you how to check for codes, also check fuel pressure.
This is figuring that the fuel tank is clean and fresh gas
.
 
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jrichker

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#3
  • Aug 24, 2017
  • #3
Dump codes sticky.
Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...codes-from-eec4-in-86-95-5-0-mustangs.889006/ I highly suggest that you read it and follow the instructions to dump the codes.
 
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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Aug 24, 2017
#4
  • Aug 24, 2017
  • #4
Check codes like others said.
 
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mikestang63

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#5
  • Aug 24, 2017
  • #5
now it's just me, but I would check the codes
 

mleg

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Aug 23, 2017
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Aug 24, 2017
#6
  • Aug 24, 2017
  • #6
Thanks for all the replies. I'm not sure I'm Mustang smart enough to figure dumping the codes. I have read the thread on dumping the codes around a dozen times and still not sure I want to take it on. Will talk to my mechanic and see if he can help. Thanks for all your replies.
 

mikestang63

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#7
  • Aug 24, 2017
  • #7
spend $25 and get this
Innova 3145 code reader
Plug and play
 
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
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Aug 24, 2017
#8
  • Aug 24, 2017
  • #8
NO need for a mechanic

Amazon product ASIN B000EW0KHWView: https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW



One of these days I'm going to make a YouTube video on using this thing. It's easy
 
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mleg

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Aug 23, 2017
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Aug 25, 2017
#9
  • Aug 25, 2017
  • #9
Mustang5L5 said:
NO need for a mechanic

Amazon product ASIN B000EW0KHWView: https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW



One of these days I'm going to make a YouTube video on using this thing. It's easy
Click to expand...
Mustang5L5 said:
NO need for a mechanic

Amazon product ASIN B000EW0KHWView: https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW



One of these days I'm going to make a YouTube video on using this thing. It's easy
Click to expand...
YouTube video would be great.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
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Massachusetts
Aug 26, 2017
#10
  • Aug 26, 2017
  • #10
I'll see if I can get one done over the weekend but don't wait for me. Hectic enough over here with kids that it might have to wait.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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#11
  • Aug 26, 2017
  • #11
mleg said:
YouTube video would be great.
Click to expand...

behold the power of the internet

 

mleg

Member
Aug 23, 2017
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Aug 27, 2017
#12
  • Aug 27, 2017
  • #12
mikestang63 said:
behold the power of the internet

Click to expand...

You are the man. Ordered mine yesterday and hope to have it Tuesday. Maybe now I can find out why it will not run at 3500 RPM's. Thanks for your help. You are pretty damn good on TV.
 

mleg

Member
Aug 23, 2017
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Aug 30, 2017
#13
  • Aug 30, 2017
  • #13
Pluged in my new Innova 3145 tool today and out of all those codes in the book I only had one when it was running. No codes when the ignition switch was on. The only code that was pulled was 21R. The book states that the cooling Temp. sensoe is out of specified range OR ECT out of range. Does anyone know if either of these would cause it to choke and cough at 3500 RPM's? Got my doubts.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
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Massachusetts
Aug 30, 2017
#14
  • Aug 30, 2017
  • #14
Did you run the codes with the engine hot or cold? If cold, let the engine warm up and try it again.

Also, after the engine running codes, blip the throttle and do the cylinder balance test.

And yes, a bad coolant temp sensor will cause issues
 

mleg

Member
Aug 23, 2017
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5
13
Aug 31, 2017
#15
  • Aug 31, 2017
  • #15
Mustang5L5 said:
Did you run the codes with the engine hot or cold? If cold, let the engine warm up and try it again.

Also, after the engine running codes, blip the throttle and do the cylinder balance test.

And yes, a bad coolant temp sensor will cause issues
Click to expand...


Ran the codes with the engine hot. Not sure what blip the throttle is and will have to read up on the cylinder balance test. Thanks for the help.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
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224
Massachusetts
Aug 31, 2017
#16
  • Aug 31, 2017
  • #16
mleg said:
Ran the codes with the engine hot. Not sure what blip the throttle is and will have to read up on the cylinder balance test. Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...


Basically at the end of the engine running codes, when they've repeated twice, the code reading will stop. At that point, give the engine a healthy rev. The input from the TPS will trigger that start of the cylinder balance test which is a primitive way of testing for misfiring cylinders.

And yes, engine hot and you got a code 21...bad coolant temp sensor. It will give you issues
 

jrichker

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#17
  • Aug 31, 2017
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No code

High speed miss on a warm engine

Revised 7 Nov-2016 to add PIP sensor as possible problem and dumping the codes to help determine if it is the TFI or PIP.

The TFI module mounted on the distributor is one of the culprits for a high speed miss on a warm engine. The other suspect is the PIP sensor inside the distributor. If the problem does not occur when the engine is cold, the TFI module or PIP is definitely suspect. Dumping the codes may help determine which one it is. You may need a special socket to remove the TFI module, but most auto parts stores will have one for $5-$7.

Be sure to use plenty of the heat sink grease on the new TFI and clean the old grease off the distributor.



See Automotive Tools Specialty | Auto Mechanic & Technician Diagnostic, Testing Equipment | Thexton


diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2Birds
 

mleg

Member
Aug 23, 2017
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Sep 28, 2017
#18
  • Sep 28, 2017
  • #18
No more codes. Replaced the coolant sensor and ran the cylinder balance test and that came back with a code of 90 which by the book means all cylinders are OK. The code 21 I had for a bad coolant sensor is also now gone. Code tester comes back with 10's and 11's which means all engine test are normal. WELL, it still starts missing badly at 3500 to 4000 rpm's. Not a small miss, but the tack will dance back and forth from about 2500 to 3500 rpm's. Thanks for everyone's help. Not sure which way I will turn now. Still believe it is the computer that I sent off and had rebuilt. Never, never had this problem before it was sent off.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
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#19
  • Sep 28, 2017
  • #19
Next step I would say is to mount a fuel pressure gauge where you can watch it like maybe on a windshield wiper arm, it's only temporary, watch the pressure as you drive.
 

mleg

Member
Aug 23, 2017
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5
13
Oct 29, 2017
#20
  • Oct 29, 2017
  • #20
Anyone know where the air charge Temp. sensor is located on a 1992 LX 5.0 ?
 
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