93 2.3 crank but no fire

Dloudin87

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Jan 25, 2020
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Hey guys. Me again. 93 2.3L cranks but wont start. So here is a little history. Had issue with car bucking and loosing power after driving a little. Then it quit and would start back up like nothing was wrong. It hadn't been serviced so I installed the following.

Plugs (x8)
Wires
Coils
Fuel filter

Then it got worse. Had heavy misfire around 2k RPM then I shut it down and it wouldnt start. Then I installed the following.

Ignition Control Module
Crank Sensor
Timing Belt
Starter.
Computer

Timing is in and plugs have spark. But still wont start. I noticed my schrader valve was missing. There was a bolt there.

So I ordered valve from LMR. Saw I had a leaking injector. Installed brand new injectors. Leak was gone.

Checked fuel pressure and had 40-45psi but the car still cranks and never fires.

Please help I'm going insane over here trying to drive my car..
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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Pull a plug and smell for gas (after cranking it a few strokes).
If you don't smell gas hit it with a shot of starting fluid or brake cleaner. This will tell you if it is fuel or ignition related.
Check for codes.
 

Dloudin87

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Jan 25, 2020
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The plugs were black but didn't smell of gas. I will get some starting fluid today and see what happens. Car has brand new ICM and Ignition Switch. I have burnt 1 ICM previous and thought it was a ECM issue. I replaced ECM but still nothing. And I have 12.26 volts to ICM. Also have same voltage to fuel injectors. And same voltage on both coil packs.
 

91TwighlightGT

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I assume you have checked compression. You have to have fuel, spark, and compression to run. Does it sound like it is cranking fast? If you had ignition issues and it was dumping excessive fuel it is possible that you flooded the engine and washed down the cylinder walls.
 
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fordpeople

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May 21, 2020
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Hi
That is weird i'm haveing the same problem but mine is a 1984 svo. It seems to be a pandemic or something even my 1987 5.0 is having the same issue it cranks over and it wont start I have had these cars for dang near 20 years and never had a issue with them. I hope that you figure something out. If you have a MAF sensor sometimes they can get old and stop working and also the TPS and sometimes the fuel pressure regulator and the throttle body. sorry just throwing things out there that maybe someone could use and just planting a few seeds maybe they will grow. Then again good luck
 
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Dloudin87

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I assume you have checked compression. You have to have fuel, spark, and compression to run. Does it sound like it is cranking fast? If you had ignition issues and it was dumping excessive fuel it is possible that you flooded the engine and washed down the cylinder walls.
I don't have a compression tester but doing the finger test it feels very strong. It cranks normal speed but if I hit the gas to the floor it will stop cranking. When I try to start it you can smell fuel very strong. I'm not sure how to check the pressure regulator but gauge shows 41psi when I turn the key and 45psi when I crank it.
 

Dloudin87

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Jan 25, 2020
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Hi
That is weird i'm haveing the same problem but mine is a 1984 svo. It seems to be a pandemic or something even my 1987 5.0 is having the same issue it cranks over and it wont start I have had these cars for dang near 20 years and never had a issue with them. I hope that you figure something out. If you have a MAF sensor sometimes they can get old and stop working and also the TPS and sometimes the fuel pressure regulator and the throttle body. sorry just throwing things out there that maybe someone could use and just planting a few seeds maybe they will grow. Then again good luck
I have Ohm and volt tested MAF, IAC, and TPS and all read good. I have still been wondering about the MAF though. I know they can be tricky
 

Dloudin87

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Jan 25, 2020
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Plugs have a gas smell but are black. I cleaned it off and after 2 more cranks plug was black again. Shot a fireball out of intake with starting fluid but never started. When I turn the key on the fuel pressure is at 41. When I first start cranking it jumps to 45 then immediately drops to 30-35. If I stop cranking it goes back to 41. Within 10 minutes of shutting down fuel pressure goes from 41 to 30. Then will hold pressure for about 20 minutes before its back to 0.
 

91TwighlightGT

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The fuel pressure is fine by this indication. If the plugs are fouled and smell like gas then I am leaning towards an ignition problem. I realize that you just replaced some of these parts, but unfortunately that doesn't mean that they are not defective.

It's time to start over fresh and go back to the basics.

#1 - You really should check compression. You can probably rent a compression tester from Autozone for free. If you have burned valves that aren't holding compression then it's time for an overhaul. If you have a blown head gasket it can have all of the symptoms you are describing.

#2 - Your car has a dual spark ignition system. One coil actually runs the car, the second coil is for waste spark. Even if the waste spark coil is not firing, the car will run. If the primary coil is not firing, but the waste spark coil is, then you could get a backfire out of the intake. I would pull those coils and inspect them for cracks or burn marks, then swap their positions. You can consider disconnecting the waste spark coil altogether while you are testing, although it will cause problems with your tachometer when you are actually driving around if it is not working correctly.

EDIT: This is also the time to make sure that your spark plug wires are routed correctly!!! I know it sounds dumb, but check your work. It is unfortunately very common for people to attach the wrong wire to the wrong plug.

#3 - You replaced the ignition module. What brand did you go with? I would try to go Motorcraft on this part since it is so mission critical. Also, check this page out...


If the plugs are fouled, definitely pull and clean them. You may have to replace them if they are badly fouled. I also only recommend the standard Motorcraft plugs for these engines.
 

Dloudin87

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Jan 25, 2020
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I am getting a compression checker today. The plugs are brand new and I did go with the Motorcraft so maybe a cleaning will be ok. The ICM is a duralast brand. But is the 3rd one I've had to get. So maybe Motorcraft is the way to go there. The ignition switch was replaced and it started up and ran for a couple days then nothing. I tested the ICM off of that link exactly and got 12.26 on meter. I was wondering if it could be another faulty ICM or the ignition switch was bad. But I will be testing compression today and I will post my results. Thank you for all of the input!!
 

91TwighlightGT

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Yeah, I would definitely try the OEM Part. Also, I would really closely inspect the ground connection. The 2.3L Ranger is nearly identical to the 2.3L Mustang, and a member posted this as well...


The lone lower bolt on the left side is the ground for the ICU. I ran a ground wire direclty to my battery(negative) from this bolt and had a 90% improvement. When the ICU faults, the computer resets to the default values as if you disconnected/reconnected the battery. This causes the engine to run rough. On my list is to cleanup the negative engine ground from battery to block. The ground on these modules is very unforgiving, not to be taken for granted. The ICU backplate is not a ground, it's a heat shield. The white putty you saw is an insulator for disappating the heat.

I also notice the EGR systems are prone to fail, many times its the DPFE compenent. You might want to clean your MAF sensor with MAF Cleaner, use the whole can with emphisis on the center hole.

Keep us posted, good luck.
 
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Dloudin87

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Thank you for that. I am getting compression tester now and ill be able to check that. But I will try the wire to battery thing. At this point I'm open to any and all suggestions! I will report back soon with compression findings
 

Dloudin87

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Jan 25, 2020
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Yeah, I would definitely try the OEM Part. Also, I would really closely inspect the ground connection. The 2.3L Ranger is nearly identical to the 2.3L Mustang, and a member posted this as well...

Thank you Twilight.!!! You said I should go back to the basics. I was looking at firing order and saw that 91 and 92 have a different firing order than 93. So i swapped plug wires to that diagram and the car fired right up!! Running like a top for the first time in 2 months. Thank you guys so much for the help
 

fordpeople

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wow that is just awesome!!!!!!!!!! funny thing is so did mine the other day for about 10 seconds and died I think i need a new fuel pressure regulator. But congrats I love it when peoples stuff works for them.
 
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Dloudin87

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wow that is just awesome!!!!!!!!!! funny thing is so did mine the other day for about 10 seconds and died I think i need a new fuel pressure regulator. But congrats I love it when peoples stuff works for them.
Thank you man I'm super excited!! And you will get yours squared away as well. Hopefully a new regulator will straighten it out
 

junkyardwarrior

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Jan 10, 2011
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I thought all inline 4 cylinder engines were 1-3-4-2? (except cross plane I-4's)

the secondary coil complicates things but they can be wired to run 1-3-4-2 as well with no problems. IIRC they are set up to fire 180 degrees from the primary coil so that the intake side spark plugs fire when the pistons are at TDC/overlap. Is that right? or??
 
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Dloudin87

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Jan 25, 2020
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I thought all inline 4 cylinder engines were 1-3-4-2? (except cross plane I-4's)

the secondary coil complicates things but they can be wired to run 1-3-4-2 as well with no problems. IIRC they are set up to fire 180 degrees from the primary coil so that the intake side spark plugs fire when the pistons are at TDC/overlap. Is that right? or??
Mine is a 2.3L I4 so that could be why mine wasn't running with that firing order. Im not 100% sure on that one though
 
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