Any body have input on 1993 5.0 with 108000 k on the clock. New clucth, tires and windshield. What should I look for and how much do you think I should offer. Don't want to insult the guy . Blue book says 3k good shape .Car has no rust and is semi clean inside. Any issues with these I should know about am buying it for my son.Hes 18 years. Input PLEASE.
93 5.0 help
- Thread starter erzats
- Start date
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
how old were you when you got your first fox? some 18 year olds are mature enough to have one. im not saying all, or the majority by a longshot. but to call the guy a bad father for helping his kid pick up a fox is kinda jumping the gun a bit dont you think?
to the OP, if its a coupe its a steal for 3k, the convertables can be found for dirt cheap, at least around here anyways. a rusted out junk coupe is a steal for 3k up here
Keep in mind that the car is 16 years old and that 108K miles has been put on it.
Some of the previous owners may have done some work of dubious quality, so
be prepared to deal with it. If it was a one ower or family owned car, the car may
be in better shape than if it changed owners several differnt times.
These cars are a lot of fun, but they require some wrench work and TLC to keep
them at their best. If you or your son are into the DIY mechanic thing and has some
experience with other cars it will probably be OK. If you have no clue except
to take it to some mechanic, the mechanic will soon own your wallet or credit card
and you will grow to hate the car rather than love it.
If you live in a location that has emissions testing, make sure the car passes emissions
testing before you buy it. Fixing emissions related problems can be expensive since
the previous owner(s) may have removed the required equipment. Removing the
emissions equipment doesn't make the car go faster, it just makes the computer
angry and spit codes. Some codes may cause the computer to go into limp mode,
reducing power and economy.
Here are my standard comments to someone new to 5.0 Mustangs. There are
some clues on what to look out for when purchasing one.
If you want to do the fix up & power up thing, make sure that you have some other
form of reliable daily driver. That way the stang can sit while your wallet and hands
take a rest from the last project that didn't quite get finished on that 3 day weekend.
Things always cost more and take longer the first time you do them. Having some
other working vehicle makes life easier since it isn't the big crush to get it running
for the Monday morning drive to work or class.
Plan on spending some money on tools it you don't already have them. The stang
has both metric and american fasteners, so you really need two sets of wrenches.
A timing light, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge, compression tester, fuel pressure
test gauge and fuel line coupler tools are some of the test & tuning tools you'll need.
Visit the pawn shops and sometimes you can find a deal on tools & test equipment
if you stick to well known name brands.
A sheltered work area is almost a must, someplace that you can leave the car in
pieces without upsetting anyone. Some guys here have changed a transmission in
the parking lot of their apartment in a rainstorm, but they will tell you it wasn't fun.
Depending on where you live, a warm dry garage is a nice place to do the winter
projects that stangs tend to become.
EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) Computer - every stang after 85 has or had one:
don't let it intimidate you. The computer based EFI systems are not hard to fix
and most of the time they tell you what's wrong with the engine. Here's a book
that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst:
ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.
It's about $25-$35 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select b...d.php?t=643651"]Useful Technical Thread Index” sticky at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum.
Things that break often:
T5 5 speed manual transmission (syncros go bad, mostly 3rd gear)
TFI Module (Thin Film Ignition module - mounts on the distributor)
Electric door locks (see the link in my sign for a cheap & easy fix)
Ignition switches – they overheat and cause flaky wiper, radio, heater blower & turn signal problems.
O2 sensors(oxygen sensors) They are good for about 60,000 miles and start to go
down hill after that.
TPS Sensor (Throttle Position Sensor) causes flaky problems with idle & acceleration.
Fog lights They overheat the wiring and cause the headlights to flicker. The fix is
cheap and simple if you can do electrical stuff.
Harmonic Balancer – they separate between the hub and outer ring. A harmonic
balancer puller is a must have to change it. You can rent or borrow a puller from
most of the larger auto parts stores.
Things that are very durable:
Engine - as long as it hasn't been abused, it will run good for 150,000-200,000
miles without an overhaul
Rear axle other than an occasional case of worn clutches in the traction lock,
they almost never have problems.
Computer - believe it or not, the computers seldom have problems of their own.
Most of the problems are with the sensors and the wiring.
Suspension – the front and rear suspension has very few problems if the car hasn’t
been wrecked or seen a lot of drag strip runs. The drag strip runs tend to distort and
tear the mount points for the rear axle control arms. Revving the engine up to 4000
RPM and dumping the clutch with slicks or drag radials tends to break things.
Things that don’t break often but are hard to fix:
Water pump mount bolts – they corrode and shear off when you try to change the
water pump. The broken bolts are a real challenge to get out without damaging
anything else.
Rear oil seal on the engine – lots of parts to remove to get to a $20 seal.
Power steering pump – the pumps are noisy and the pulley requires some special
tools to remove and install. If you have the tools, they are easy to do. Again, the
larger auto parts stores will rent or loan the tools for the pulley.
Power Steering rack - it is hard to get the toe in set so that you can drive the car
to the shop to get it properly aligned.
Starter – the top bolt is hard to get a socket on if you don’t have the right combination
of socket, universal joint and extensions.
Everything considered, 5.0 Mustangs are not hard to work on. They just require
some patience and though before you get started.
Some of the previous owners may have done some work of dubious quality, so
be prepared to deal with it. If it was a one ower or family owned car, the car may
be in better shape than if it changed owners several differnt times.
These cars are a lot of fun, but they require some wrench work and TLC to keep
them at their best. If you or your son are into the DIY mechanic thing and has some
experience with other cars it will probably be OK. If you have no clue except
to take it to some mechanic, the mechanic will soon own your wallet or credit card
and you will grow to hate the car rather than love it.
If you live in a location that has emissions testing, make sure the car passes emissions
testing before you buy it. Fixing emissions related problems can be expensive since
the previous owner(s) may have removed the required equipment. Removing the
emissions equipment doesn't make the car go faster, it just makes the computer
angry and spit codes. Some codes may cause the computer to go into limp mode,
reducing power and economy.
Here are my standard comments to someone new to 5.0 Mustangs. There are
some clues on what to look out for when purchasing one.
If you want to do the fix up & power up thing, make sure that you have some other
form of reliable daily driver. That way the stang can sit while your wallet and hands
take a rest from the last project that didn't quite get finished on that 3 day weekend.
Things always cost more and take longer the first time you do them. Having some
other working vehicle makes life easier since it isn't the big crush to get it running
for the Monday morning drive to work or class.
Plan on spending some money on tools it you don't already have them. The stang
has both metric and american fasteners, so you really need two sets of wrenches.
A timing light, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge, compression tester, fuel pressure
test gauge and fuel line coupler tools are some of the test & tuning tools you'll need.
Visit the pawn shops and sometimes you can find a deal on tools & test equipment
if you stick to well known name brands.
A sheltered work area is almost a must, someplace that you can leave the car in
pieces without upsetting anyone. Some guys here have changed a transmission in
the parking lot of their apartment in a rainstorm, but they will tell you it wasn't fun.
Depending on where you live, a warm dry garage is a nice place to do the winter
projects that stangs tend to become.
EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) Computer - every stang after 85 has or had one:
don't let it intimidate you. The computer based EFI systems are not hard to fix
and most of the time they tell you what's wrong with the engine. Here's a book
that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst:
ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.
It's about $25-$35 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select b...d.php?t=643651"]Useful Technical Thread Index” sticky at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum.
Things that break often:
T5 5 speed manual transmission (syncros go bad, mostly 3rd gear)
TFI Module (Thin Film Ignition module - mounts on the distributor)
Electric door locks (see the link in my sign for a cheap & easy fix)
Ignition switches – they overheat and cause flaky wiper, radio, heater blower & turn signal problems.
O2 sensors(oxygen sensors) They are good for about 60,000 miles and start to go
down hill after that.
TPS Sensor (Throttle Position Sensor) causes flaky problems with idle & acceleration.
Fog lights They overheat the wiring and cause the headlights to flicker. The fix is
cheap and simple if you can do electrical stuff.
Harmonic Balancer – they separate between the hub and outer ring. A harmonic
balancer puller is a must have to change it. You can rent or borrow a puller from
most of the larger auto parts stores.
Things that are very durable:
Engine - as long as it hasn't been abused, it will run good for 150,000-200,000
miles without an overhaul
Rear axle other than an occasional case of worn clutches in the traction lock,
they almost never have problems.
Computer - believe it or not, the computers seldom have problems of their own.
Most of the problems are with the sensors and the wiring.
Suspension – the front and rear suspension has very few problems if the car hasn’t
been wrecked or seen a lot of drag strip runs. The drag strip runs tend to distort and
tear the mount points for the rear axle control arms. Revving the engine up to 4000
RPM and dumping the clutch with slicks or drag radials tends to break things.
Things that don’t break often but are hard to fix:
Water pump mount bolts – they corrode and shear off when you try to change the
water pump. The broken bolts are a real challenge to get out without damaging
anything else.
Rear oil seal on the engine – lots of parts to remove to get to a $20 seal.
Power steering pump – the pumps are noisy and the pulley requires some special
tools to remove and install. If you have the tools, they are easy to do. Again, the
larger auto parts stores will rent or loan the tools for the pulley.
Power Steering rack - it is hard to get the toe in set so that you can drive the car
to the shop to get it properly aligned.
Starter – the top bolt is hard to get a socket on if you don’t have the right combination
of socket, universal joint and extensions.
Everything considered, 5.0 Mustangs are not hard to work on. They just require
some patience and though before you get started.
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
Who said he was a bad father>>>??
I said he was a great dad. I meant it. My mom wouldnt let me near a mustang as a first car. Hell I had to buy my first car and it wasnt a mustang as mom said no.
I got my first stang when I was 21.
Just because every single post you make is sarcasm, doesn't mean everyone elses are. Relax.
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
I know I loved having my '67 with a 289 as my first car at age 19. Then at 20, we got our first 5.0.
This is his third car. #1 was a dodge conversion van 1992 with a bed in back for his BMX road trips.#2 was a bmw [1990 325is]that was a money pit and was starting to have fuel issues again .He got interested in mustangs when I pulled up in my 09 Bullitt last nov. Great kid straight edge or triple x as they say ie:no drugs,tobacco or alcohol. He knows if he comes home with a ticket he has to get his own insurance policy.We live down the block from Raceway park in englishtown nj if he wants to race he knows where the track is.Thanks for all the input guys.Was already under the hood today changing the thermostat due to a broken thermostat cover/body.Lots of fun.Oil change tomorrow.Thanks again great advice .I'm sure I will be asking questions about repairs as i realize that there will be problems used car high mileage. As for the body not aspot of rust on it a few clear coat issues but thats it. One more thing my son wants me to be clear on the fact that he has bought all his cars himself .He says he does'nt want anyone to think he is a spoiled little $hit.
My first car was an 84.5 GT350 and it got me hooked right off the bat. I am on my 10th Stang now 
Fox will be a bit of a money/time hog at first but the parts are cheap and plentiful.
I would do a fuel filter swap too. If the t-stat housing is leaking then I would also flus the cooling system and refill it with coolant. I would bet it has water in it or had. It causes the different metals to rust or pit and causes leaks like the t-stat housing.
Be a good idea to get under the car and make sure the torque boxes are not ripped out cause it happens all too often. Just do a search on here and you will find plenty of threads with pictures of what a torn torque box looks like and how to fix it.
I would also suggest getting some full length sub frame connectors. Its an old chassis and will squeak and flex. The FLSFC will tighten the car up great and and help to keep from causing cracks in the floor from flexing.
Hope it helps!
Fox will be a bit of a money/time hog at first but the parts are cheap and plentiful.
I would do a fuel filter swap too. If the t-stat housing is leaking then I would also flus the cooling system and refill it with coolant. I would bet it has water in it or had. It causes the different metals to rust or pit and causes leaks like the t-stat housing.
Be a good idea to get under the car and make sure the torque boxes are not ripped out cause it happens all too often. Just do a search on here and you will find plenty of threads with pictures of what a torn torque box looks like and how to fix it.
I would also suggest getting some full length sub frame connectors. Its an old chassis and will squeak and flex. The FLSFC will tighten the car up great and and help to keep from causing cracks in the floor from flexing.
Hope it helps!
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