• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Engine 93 Cobra, Dreaded 94/44, Terrible Fuel economy, Runs great! (FIXED)

  • Thread starter Thread starter someone82
  • Start date Start date Sep 29, 2018
Prev
  • 1
  • 2
First Prev 2 of 2
S

someone82

Member
Oct 19, 2016
28
6
13
43
Ventura CA
Oct 10, 2018
#21
  • Oct 10, 2018
  • #21
Update, new solinoids in, no change. Still 94/44 code
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,956
10,600
203
polk county florida
Oct 10, 2018
#22
  • Oct 10, 2018
  • #22
Did you reset the computer?
 
S

someone82

Member
Oct 19, 2016
28
6
13
43
Ventura CA
Oct 10, 2018
#23
  • Oct 10, 2018
  • #23
General karthief said:
Did you reset the computer?
Click to expand...

I thought soft codes produced during koer werent stored in memory? I have no hard codes. Passes koeo
 
S

someone82

Member
Oct 19, 2016
28
6
13
43
Ventura CA
Oct 18, 2018
#24
  • Oct 18, 2018
  • #24
Reset the computer for s and giggles and I have no change, still getting the same code (94/44) during koer and fuel economy sucks (11-13 mpg, and driving it like a grandma) any other idea where to look?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,956
10,600
203
polk county florida
Oct 18, 2018
#25
  • Oct 18, 2018
  • #25
Did you verify the pump is pumping air?
curious, what is your timing set at?
 
S

someone82

Member
Oct 19, 2016
28
6
13
43
Ventura CA
Oct 18, 2018
#26
  • Oct 18, 2018
  • #26
General karthief said:
Did you verify the pump is pumping air?
curious, what is your timing set at?
Click to expand...
Pump is new and pumps air. Timing is at 12*, fuel pressure is at 39 psi.
 
Reactions: General karthief

Talon Tranter

New Member
May 7, 2018
15
0
3
30
United States
Oct 19, 2018
#27
  • Oct 19, 2018
  • #27
someone82 said:
Short story, been restoring my father's 93 Cobra, top end, front end, exhaust all freshened up. It's running great and feels better then when it left the showroom floor but my fuel economy sucks (11 mpg). She is basically stock on the motor besides an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at 39), 165 pump, and a pro-m maf (factory bit the bullet).

So I am getting 94/44 KOER test (passes key off test), air pump is new, solenoids check out OK (ground out OK and operate), wiring is correct, vacuum lines are correct, diverter is new (old one collapsed), check valve ok, cross over pipe is clear, and are the heads.

When engine is cold air is diverted to the heads, once some temp is built air is diverted to the cats. Now here is the problem, when the engine is revved and comes down on decel, air is diverted to the heads, not bypassed as stated in Jrichker's posts. I am stumped the bypass is responsive to vacuum, and what I'm stating sounds like the solenoids are reversed, but they are not as the diverter is acting properly when cold and warm at idle.

Any advise before I bite the bullet and take it to the stealership?

Thanks, Matt
Click to expand...
I mean, it is the Cobra, and they aren't really known for their fuel economy, but no mustang should be that bad . You may be using poor quality fuel. Try draining the tank and putting some high quality go juice in there. it should at least help. if that doesnt do anything, try a fuel additive, they are pretty inexpensive,and work great from what i hear.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,265
17,952
224
Massachusetts
Oct 19, 2018
#28
  • Oct 19, 2018
  • #28
Two suggestions..unfortunately not easy to do. But I would verify that upon cold startup you have air at the tube to the heads, and that it switches to the tube going to the cats once warmed up.

Remove the hose going to the tube to the back of the heads. The silver thing mounted on the tube is a check valve, so you shouldn't need to cap the hard line. Start the engine cold and see if air is coming from the tube. When the car warms up, it should stop as it's diverted to the h-pipe then.

If you do have air coming out, I would check to see if the check valve is not plugged. Without removing the tube, you could fasten a tube to the end and gently blow compressed air through. Only worry about doing this on the car is risk of blowing crap into the engine. However, taking it off is a PITA but would eliminate that risk
 

StratTone

Member
Feb 7, 2017
74
11
18
48
Oct 25, 2018
#29
  • Oct 25, 2018
  • #29
I've never tried to actually repair anything in the air diverter set up but what 5L5 says makes sense to me. If everything is clear and the solenoids are switching correctly and the pump is working then maybe the check valve is bad.
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,813
234
80
Dublin GA
lowendmac.com
Oct 25, 2018
#30
  • Oct 25, 2018
  • #30
StratTone said:
I've never tried to actually repair anything in the air diverter set up but what 5L5 says makes sense to me. If everything is clear and the solenoids are switching correctly and the pump is working then maybe the check valve is bad.
Click to expand...
The primary purpose of the check valve is to prevent backfiring in the exhaust from damaging the control valves and the smog pump.
 
S

someone82

Member
Oct 19, 2016
28
6
13
43
Ventura CA
Oct 25, 2018
#31
  • Oct 25, 2018
  • #31
Check valves are A OK. The problem is the bypass valve (only for a split second according to a vacuum gauge is opening long enough during decal as stated in one of my earlier posts and air flow is being diverted to the head. Something is not right! I am going to run a test and have the diverted disconnected so Air is only diverted to the cats. I'm going to see how this affects fuel economy.
 
S

someone82

Member
Oct 19, 2016
28
6
13
43
Ventura CA
Dec 29, 2018
#32
  • Dec 29, 2018
  • #32
Update! After purchasing a breakout box and chasing a few bad grounds I was still getting code 44. I decided on a whim to replace my already "brand new" smog pump back with my old noisy oem pump. Codes went away! The replacement pump was not producing enough air flow to satisfy the o2 sensors. Got another pump on it now and all is better, driveablitly and fuel economy.
 
Reactions: General karthief and Mustang5L5
Prev
  • 1
  • 2
First Prev 2 of 2
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Resolved 93 Mustang 5.0 - Cranks but does not start
  • dan50
  • Jul 18, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
6
Views
171
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Jul 18, 2026
dan50
2
Running very very rich
  • 2esoteric
  • Oct 31, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
4
Views
358
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Oct 31, 2025
Noobz347
S
Fuel ‘88 GT Runs Rich Cold — Fixes Itself When I Unplug Sensors (ECT, MAF, O2, etc.)
  • Sufarry
  • Nov 6, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
12
Views
884
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Nov 9, 2025
Mustang5L5
Engine Throwing codes 94, 33, 34, 44, and sporadic engine shutoff.
  • Ryu
  • Oct 9, 2024
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
11
Views
1K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Oct 16, 2024
89ripper
SURGING IDLE / NO IDLE CHECKLIST FOR 1996–1998 MUSTANG GT (4.6L 2V) - Work In Progress
  • Noobz347
  • Aug 30, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
764
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Aug 30, 2025
Noobz347
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?