93 Few Interior issues - locks, windows, lighter, console lid

Olivethefet said:

For anyone that is interested, this is what my issue was with wiring up the keyless entry and how I sorted it out. The first thing you have to do is locate the door lock wiring harness behind the drives side kick panel. I've seen in at least one other post where someone was able to dig the wires out by removing the dash speaker on the drivers side. I had my dash off to work on the heater core and AC evaporator, so the wires were right there easy to get to. My car has been through a lot in the past, so there is some sketchy wiring in a few places. It already had keyless entry installed in it at one point, but all that was removed. The wires were already cut so I didn't have to worry about cutting them or not. This is a picture showing the wiring harness you are looking for.



The wires you will need to cut into are the pink/light gray(lock) and pink/yellow(unlock). My wires were already cut so it narrowed the search down. Just to verify things I stuck a needle into the wire first so that I could use a multi-meter to check for continuity then to verify voltage when you hit the lock unlock button. I didn't take a picture of that. These are the wires that you need to cut or tie into.



This is how the relays need to be wired up.

In this diagram the pink/light gray wire is represented by the green wire and the pink/yellow wire is represented by the pink wire. Terminal 87 needs to be able to carry the load of the circuit when energized. It needs to be a decent gauge wire, I used 14 gauge, and it needs to be fused. I used a 14 amp fuse. If you wire terminals 30 and 87a backwards you will create a dead short and, if you are using a fuse, blow the fuse or if you are not using a fuse you will burn up the switch and possibly the lock actuator solenoid.


The previous owner already had one of those clamp on jumpers attached further down in the wiring harness on the black/white wire. This wire is always hot when the battery is connected. The connection looked good so I went ahead and used it to supply voltage to both 87 terminals and 85 and 86. You'll have to look at how the outputs work on your keyless entry to determine if it is sending a negative signal or positive signal. I think most will provide either signal depending on how you decide to use it. In my case I used the negative signal, so terminal 85 on the unlock relay receives a negative signal from the keyless entry to trigger the relay. Terminal 86 receives a negative signal on the lock relay. This wiring diagram is specific for a keyless entry sending a negitive trigger signal. If you are using a unit that is sending a positive trigger signal you will have to wire it up a little different. If you need that wiring diagram just send me a message or you can find it on "the 12 Volt" I am running power to the keyless entry receiver from a different source. Its coming off the brake light relay and has a 7.5 amp fuse on it.

I think I covered all the bases. Hopefully this will help someone down the road. My car is a 92 other year models might use different color wires.

Click to expand...