madams74
Founding Member
This is an excellent posting. I am in the process of doing this myself and have already found a lot of this would have helped speed up the process for getting to the point I am at. Here is some other useful information.
The stock fuel pump pickup has the electric pump mounted in the interior section of the drop in unit. I pulled the unit from the tank. I removed the sock and the pump. The pump just has a small piece of rubber fuel line connecting it to the stem that protrudes through the top of the factory drop in unit. It was attached using a standard hose clamp at the factory. I reused the hose clamp and added a longer piece of fuel line to reach the same location as the original pump. I had to leave the sock off, but my system has dual filters so I am not worried. If you need a new top O-ring for the reinstall, the dealers carry them for just around a $1.00. I also opted to replace the fill tube seal since I had to drop the tank. Seal was also at the dealer for around $30.00 or so. I actually pinched off all the remaining openings on the drop in unit to prevent vapor loss. I only need the one main tube attached to the hose.
VERY IMPORTANT information. The stock system uses a fuel pump shutoff circuit. The factory fuel pump uses a safety circuit that turned off the factory pump in case of an accident. The system uses a mechanical device located on the rear wall of the trunk, with a red push button. Simple design is that a magnet holds a ball bearing in place and if you get hit with enough force the magnet can not hold the bearing and it drops away causing the contacts to open and the pump to stop. I reused the 2 wires that feed the factory pump on my aftermarket pump. I mounted adjacent to the fuel filter. The wiring will reach that location. the Ground can be found by running a continuity check from one of the wires on the factory wiring to the frame. The one that is left is your Positive 12 VDC. You just cut the red factory connector off and go right into the wires. I used male and female spade connectors and heat shrunk over them. Yes you have to tap into that OEM plastic fuel line after the filter going into the pump, and the one going to the carb. I used a fuel barb and oil both the inside of the plastic and the barb up. I was able to push the plastic hose over the barb almost all the way. Believe me, you can try all you can, but your not pulling them off. I also used a small hose clamp just for added protection. I can not remember the size of the barbs, but I obtained them from Lowes. The CCRM, the item under the hood that has some of that wiring we mentioned you could remove earlier, is what control the safety circuit. This thing also was tied into the radiator fan controls. Box sits up from the ABS unit mounted on the left front side. I feel better knowing that if I am upside down that my fuel pump, especially on a carb that will pour fuel out if upside down, does not have anymore coming out , than was what was just in the bowl.
Long story short. I am leaving the computer in place, and I am leaving the CCRM in place as well. I only need to tap into the wiring going to the OEM gauges. I also have a 6AL. I just can not afford Automter gauges. People need to stick with this brand because only a few brands will not need the MSD tach adaptor in order to get the tach gauge to work off the box tach output spade. The adapter is $50+ dollars.
I have a Weiand 8011 intake. It is a low/kinda mid rise intake. I have a Holley 1850S (4160) 600 CFM Holley. The air filter I purchased was a Ford Racing 13" chrome unit. The assembly comes with a nice filter, but it will not go on the carb with the factory strut bar. The top of the filter will hit the strut bar. The bigger air filters 14"+ will hit the distributor cap. You need to go with something smaller than a 13" if your not up for the following changes I made. My solution for the filter was something anyone can do if they want to use the 13" Ford Racing unit on a lower rise intake. Forget this on a high rise. I needed a filter that was 2" or less in height to clear the strut bar. I cross referenced numbers and I found that the Cobra Jet Filter from a 1970 Mustang Mach 1 was the perfect height. I just had 1/4 to much in diameter for it to fit. I used a knife and scissors to cut it to the right diameter. You actually leave just enough so it will have to be squeezed together in the holding lip of the air cleaner. You can not even tell where it was mended. You can place this mend on the back side if your not successful in getting it perfect, but it will allow you to have a great looking air cleaner and retain your stock strut bar. I have no choice for the bar, I have a vert, and I removed the massive bracing on the underside. I have to have something to keep the roll from tearing it in half. Well I hope this helps someone. I will return with the colors you need to use for the tach, coolant gauge, and oil pressure switch if you want to keep your gauges like me. Give me a few days.
The stock fuel pump pickup has the electric pump mounted in the interior section of the drop in unit. I pulled the unit from the tank. I removed the sock and the pump. The pump just has a small piece of rubber fuel line connecting it to the stem that protrudes through the top of the factory drop in unit. It was attached using a standard hose clamp at the factory. I reused the hose clamp and added a longer piece of fuel line to reach the same location as the original pump. I had to leave the sock off, but my system has dual filters so I am not worried. If you need a new top O-ring for the reinstall, the dealers carry them for just around a $1.00. I also opted to replace the fill tube seal since I had to drop the tank. Seal was also at the dealer for around $30.00 or so. I actually pinched off all the remaining openings on the drop in unit to prevent vapor loss. I only need the one main tube attached to the hose.
VERY IMPORTANT information. The stock system uses a fuel pump shutoff circuit. The factory fuel pump uses a safety circuit that turned off the factory pump in case of an accident. The system uses a mechanical device located on the rear wall of the trunk, with a red push button. Simple design is that a magnet holds a ball bearing in place and if you get hit with enough force the magnet can not hold the bearing and it drops away causing the contacts to open and the pump to stop. I reused the 2 wires that feed the factory pump on my aftermarket pump. I mounted adjacent to the fuel filter. The wiring will reach that location. the Ground can be found by running a continuity check from one of the wires on the factory wiring to the frame. The one that is left is your Positive 12 VDC. You just cut the red factory connector off and go right into the wires. I used male and female spade connectors and heat shrunk over them. Yes you have to tap into that OEM plastic fuel line after the filter going into the pump, and the one going to the carb. I used a fuel barb and oil both the inside of the plastic and the barb up. I was able to push the plastic hose over the barb almost all the way. Believe me, you can try all you can, but your not pulling them off. I also used a small hose clamp just for added protection. I can not remember the size of the barbs, but I obtained them from Lowes. The CCRM, the item under the hood that has some of that wiring we mentioned you could remove earlier, is what control the safety circuit. This thing also was tied into the radiator fan controls. Box sits up from the ABS unit mounted on the left front side. I feel better knowing that if I am upside down that my fuel pump, especially on a carb that will pour fuel out if upside down, does not have anymore coming out , than was what was just in the bowl.
Long story short. I am leaving the computer in place, and I am leaving the CCRM in place as well. I only need to tap into the wiring going to the OEM gauges. I also have a 6AL. I just can not afford Automter gauges. People need to stick with this brand because only a few brands will not need the MSD tach adaptor in order to get the tach gauge to work off the box tach output spade. The adapter is $50+ dollars.
I have a Weiand 8011 intake. It is a low/kinda mid rise intake. I have a Holley 1850S (4160) 600 CFM Holley. The air filter I purchased was a Ford Racing 13" chrome unit. The assembly comes with a nice filter, but it will not go on the carb with the factory strut bar. The top of the filter will hit the strut bar. The bigger air filters 14"+ will hit the distributor cap. You need to go with something smaller than a 13" if your not up for the following changes I made. My solution for the filter was something anyone can do if they want to use the 13" Ford Racing unit on a lower rise intake. Forget this on a high rise. I needed a filter that was 2" or less in height to clear the strut bar. I cross referenced numbers and I found that the Cobra Jet Filter from a 1970 Mustang Mach 1 was the perfect height. I just had 1/4 to much in diameter for it to fit. I used a knife and scissors to cut it to the right diameter. You actually leave just enough so it will have to be squeezed together in the holding lip of the air cleaner. You can not even tell where it was mended. You can place this mend on the back side if your not successful in getting it perfect, but it will allow you to have a great looking air cleaner and retain your stock strut bar. I have no choice for the bar, I have a vert, and I removed the massive bracing on the underside. I have to have something to keep the roll from tearing it in half. Well I hope this helps someone. I will return with the colors you need to use for the tach, coolant gauge, and oil pressure switch if you want to keep your gauges like me. Give me a few days.