94-95 CARB SET-UP HELP!!!!

This is an excellent posting. I am in the process of doing this myself and have already found a lot of this would have helped speed up the process for getting to the point I am at. Here is some other useful information.

The stock fuel pump pickup has the electric pump mounted in the interior section of the drop in unit. I pulled the unit from the tank. I removed the sock and the pump. The pump just has a small piece of rubber fuel line connecting it to the stem that protrudes through the top of the factory drop in unit. It was attached using a standard hose clamp at the factory. I reused the hose clamp and added a longer piece of fuel line to reach the same location as the original pump. I had to leave the sock off, but my system has dual filters so I am not worried. If you need a new top O-ring for the reinstall, the dealers carry them for just around a $1.00. I also opted to replace the fill tube seal since I had to drop the tank. Seal was also at the dealer for around $30.00 or so. I actually pinched off all the remaining openings on the drop in unit to prevent vapor loss. I only need the one main tube attached to the hose.

VERY IMPORTANT information. The stock system uses a fuel pump shutoff circuit. The factory fuel pump uses a safety circuit that turned off the factory pump in case of an accident. The system uses a mechanical device located on the rear wall of the trunk, with a red push button. Simple design is that a magnet holds a ball bearing in place and if you get hit with enough force the magnet can not hold the bearing and it drops away causing the contacts to open and the pump to stop. I reused the 2 wires that feed the factory pump on my aftermarket pump. I mounted adjacent to the fuel filter. The wiring will reach that location. the Ground can be found by running a continuity check from one of the wires on the factory wiring to the frame. The one that is left is your Positive 12 VDC. You just cut the red factory connector off and go right into the wires. I used male and female spade connectors and heat shrunk over them. Yes you have to tap into that OEM plastic fuel line after the filter going into the pump, and the one going to the carb. I used a fuel barb and oil both the inside of the plastic and the barb up. I was able to push the plastic hose over the barb almost all the way. Believe me, you can try all you can, but your not pulling them off. I also used a small hose clamp just for added protection. I can not remember the size of the barbs, but I obtained them from Lowes. The CCRM, the item under the hood that has some of that wiring we mentioned you could remove earlier, is what control the safety circuit. This thing also was tied into the radiator fan controls. Box sits up from the ABS unit mounted on the left front side. I feel better knowing that if I am upside down that my fuel pump, especially on a carb that will pour fuel out if upside down, does not have anymore coming out , than was what was just in the bowl.

Long story short. I am leaving the computer in place, and I am leaving the CCRM in place as well. I only need to tap into the wiring going to the OEM gauges. I also have a 6AL. I just can not afford Automter gauges. People need to stick with this brand because only a few brands will not need the MSD tach adaptor in order to get the tach gauge to work off the box tach output spade. The adapter is $50+ dollars.

I have a Weiand 8011 intake. It is a low/kinda mid rise intake. I have a Holley 1850S (4160) 600 CFM Holley. The air filter I purchased was a Ford Racing 13" chrome unit. The assembly comes with a nice filter, but it will not go on the carb with the factory strut bar. The top of the filter will hit the strut bar. The bigger air filters 14"+ will hit the distributor cap. You need to go with something smaller than a 13" if your not up for the following changes I made. My solution for the filter was something anyone can do if they want to use the 13" Ford Racing unit on a lower rise intake. Forget this on a high rise. I needed a filter that was 2" or less in height to clear the strut bar. I cross referenced numbers and I found that the Cobra Jet Filter from a 1970 Mustang Mach 1 was the perfect height. I just had 1/4 to much in diameter for it to fit. I used a knife and scissors to cut it to the right diameter. You actually leave just enough so it will have to be squeezed together in the holding lip of the air cleaner. You can not even tell where it was mended. You can place this mend on the back side if your not successful in getting it perfect, but it will allow you to have a great looking air cleaner and retain your stock strut bar. I have no choice for the bar, I have a vert, and I removed the massive bracing on the underside. I have to have something to keep the roll from tearing it in half. Well I hope this helps someone. I will return with the colors you need to use for the tach, coolant gauge, and oil pressure switch if you want to keep your gauges like me. Give me a few days.
 
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keep us posted Madams. I'm glad I'm not the only one who considered this "backwards" approach to horsepower.

I'm am not in your boat just yet though, I'm leaning towards a carb heavily though. For one I've got a 357 in the car with a T74 turbo, so I'll be looking at going blow through in this application. So I don't really mind running autometer gauges but my one stipulation is the A/C. The fuel system needs to be updated as well so I'm looking at running an A1000 with a 13202 reg. More than likely I'll be stepping up the engine in another year so I'd like to get the wiring issues worked out now and have the car running. Remember this is my first time touching a carb.
 
Ok guys, stupid questions begin. I just pulled my harness and computer. I was wondering about the harness or cable that leads to the brakes? This isn't an abs sensor is it?

Also, I've got a TKO and would just completely removing the tranny harness be fine? Reading above , it seems like everything will work just fine if I do.

Now I'll be cleaning up the engine bay as well as I can of any wiring. I'd like to hide as much as possible with the turbo going in.

thanks for all your help
 
Ok guys, stupid questions begin. I just pulled my harness and computer. I was wondering about the harness or cable that leads to the brakes? This isn't an abs sensor is it?

Also, I've got a TKO and would just completely removing the tranny harness be fine? Reading above , it seems like everything will work just fine if I do.

Now I'll be cleaning up the engine bay as well as I can of any wiring. I'd like to hide as much as possible with the turbo going in.

thanks for all your help

The trans harness has the back uplight wiring and speed sensor wiring in it. Both of which I would reccomend keeping.

The wires going to the brakes, IIRC, are for the ABS. I just put on a manual brake kit.

As for the bay wiring, I moved the fuse block into the fender and ran all the wires behind the aprons and between the radiator and bumper cover.
 
Figure out what your setup is going to be.. Are you using stock gauges? If you're using Autometers, you'll have a MUCH easier time of it.

If you want your stock speedometer to function, leave your computer mounted in the kick panel and leave your transmission harness connected.

For throttle cable, get a older Fox throttle cable (79-85 works great) It's a direct swap-in cable.

Can't you just rewire you vehicles speed sensor on trans to the back of the speedo cluster to correct the speedo issue? I don't see why that wouldn't work right? My only issue is hooking up the factory fuel pump wiring and what not but i think it'll be easily figured out.
 
Might be a dead post but I hope not. I did a carb swap on my 5.0 out of a 1995 mustang. I got it to run with a stock coil, is there a reason as to why I would need to swap to a blaster 2 style coil? It idles rough but I just got it started last week and have not dialed everything in yet.

Thanks for the help

Background info:
I am running a 5.0 and a t5 out of a 1995 mustang in a 1955 f100. I have a stand alone electric fuel pump, new wiring harness which is hooked up (to all the important stuff), a street fire ignition box, all sitting on a modified crown vic frame. All gauges are hooked up and working fine.
 
There aren't too many carb guys on this forum to be honest with you. An obscure question about an ignition coil on a carb setup is honestly not likely to get an experienced response here. I've actually done one of those old F100s with a carb and a 302, and the first thing I did was buy one of those all in one Proform distributors with the coil in it. Just plug one 12v wire in it, and fire it up. That's the best response I can give you. Thank you for joining StangNet.

Kurt
 
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Thank y'all for the help, I know its hard to find answers for obscures builds but i figured I would try to ask. The truck fires up right away every time, just running rough and didnt know if it had anything to do with the coil. I need to double check my timing and tune the carb, just ran out of time over the past couple nights. Im hoping to get to it this weekend and get it all figured out.
 
I can adjust the carb on my Ryobi weed eater. I bet those will be fuel injected before we stop having discussions about carb swapped Mustangs.

Kurt
 
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Might be a dead post but I hope not. I did a carb swap on my 5.0 out of a 1995 mustang. I got it to run with a stock coil, is there a reason as to why I would need to swap to a blaster 2 style coil? It idles rough but I just got it started last week and have not dialed everything in yet.

Thanks for the help

Background info:
I am running a 5.0 and a t5 out of a 1995 mustang in a 1955 f100. I have a stand alone electric fuel pump, new wiring harness which is hooked up (to all the important stuff), a street fire ignition box, all sitting on a modified crown vic frame. All gauges are hooked up and working fine.

I'm not familiar with the street fire ignition box, but usually you need to match the ignition coil with the brand or type of ignition box used. This needs to be done for two reasons: 1) the dwell time needs to match the coil. If the dwell is too short, your spark energy is weak which results in poor combustion. If it's too long for the coil it will result in coil failure over time or even a blown fuse or fire if the dwell is WAY too long for the coil. 2) You don't want to mismatch coils with the wrong driver circuit. For example, if you're using a capacitive discharge ignition box you want a coil designed for CD systems. The engine might run fine initially, but this could kill the coil over time. I helped a friend put an MSD 6A on his '86 EFI 302 and he used his stock coil (he was cheap). His car ran fine for about 8,000 miles, then started misfiring badly above 4k rpm. He replaced the coil with an MSD blaster coil and that resolved the problem. If your ignition box uses a standard ground switching circuit to dwell the coil, then #2 probably isn't going to be an issue. I would be worried about delivering the proper dwell time for the stock coil, and frankly, the stock Ford coils aren't that great to begin with. I'm not writing this to push aftermarket parts because a lot aftermarket parts are inferior to the OEM quality, but you might be in better shape long term to find a high quality aftermarket replacement that matches your aftermarket ignition box. I hope this helps and good luck!
 
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I'm not familiar with the street fire ignition box, but usually you need to match the ignition coil with the brand or type of ignition box used. This needs to be done for two reasons: 1) the dwell time needs to match the coil. If the dwell is too short, your spark energy is weak which results in poor combustion. If it's too long for the coil it will result in coil failure over time or even a blown fuse or fire if the dwell is WAY too long for the coil. 2) You don't want to mismatch coils with the wrong driver circuit. For example, if you're using a capacitive discharge ignition box you want a coil designed for CD systems. The engine might run fine initially, but this could kill the coil over time. I helped a friend put an MSD 6A on his '86 EFI 302 and he used his stock coil (he was cheap). His car ran fine for about 8,000 miles, then started misfiring badly above 4k rpm. He replaced the coil with an MSD blaster coil and that resolved the problem. If your ignition box uses a standard ground switching circuit to dwell the coil, then #2 probably isn't going to be an issue. I would be worried about delivering the proper dwell time for the stock coil, and frankly, the stock Ford coils aren't that great to begin with. I'm not writing this to push aftermarket parts because a lot aftermarket parts are inferior to the OEM quality, but you might be in better shape long term to find a high quality aftermarket replacement that matches your aftermarket ignition box. I hope this helps and good luck!

The streetfire box is made by MSD. I was looking at getting the msd coil but fires right up with the oem one wich is why i was asking questions. I know something is off but couldn't say it was the coil or if i needed to get a better one with more volts.